Can Lg Washer drain go up into the ceiling and over to sewer pipe ?

If all else fails, they sell plastic collector boxes with built in pumps, that would do what you want. Essentially an above-the-floor sump pit. I've been planning to buy one for my basement to make the abandoned slop sink usable, and reduce the distance my washer has to pump uphill. (Floor drains and old washer standpipe to graywater drywell have failed, and would cost a fortune to fix. Washer is jammed into the collector for the septic tank, along with the drain lines for furnace and water softener.)

-- aem sends...

whether it says a maximum head (height) of 8 feet or a maximum discharge hose length of 8 feet, washing machines pumps are not generally built to accomplish what you describe. in the newer 2000 era machines you may find the speed of the discharge water is greater than that of the top loader whirlpools of the 1970's, so snake out your drains and washtubs and standpipes if you are installing a new machine. see also siphoning concerns:

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I googled 'plastic collector boxes with built in pumps", but nothing came up.. Do you know what they are called, or where they can be bought ?

General category is 'ejector pump'.

Here is one with a built-in box- I know there are others out there, because I found them on previous searches, but I can't remember the proper name for them either. 'Sink drain pump' produced some hits as well.

-- aem sends....

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Definitely go with the self contained tank/pump combo units. I like Zurn's units and Little Giant versions best. Key word search= sewage ejector pumps. If the install is bad you will 100% flood you below grade room. Must be a good high capacity sewer line you hook into!!

Here's another one:

As much as I want to proceed with this project here, it isn't even in the top half of the list of stuff this place needs... :^(

-- aem sends...

Try it. The manual says 8'. Your head will likely be less. Run a temp drain with a water hose up and over to the old drain. If it works fine. If it doesn't work then consult the rocket scientists.

LdB

Ray wrote:

I don't see any problem with that although most others don't like it. Not sure why?

If it was mine I'd do your plan but set the washer op on a 16" to 24" base. First it makes things easier on your back when you don't have to bend so low. Second, it doesn't push your drain pump to it's max rating.

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I will probably try something like that.....

With the pumping systems being between $300 - $800 and still a lot of equipment to go wrong, it's either that, or break up the floor.

replying to Ray, Julia Thomas wrote:

My son moved into a house with overhead drain in the basement about 10 months ago. The line is just under 8’ from the floor with a brass check valve at about 4’ high. His 27 year old Kenmore has been working fine with it for that time. It does have a P-trap in the line where it connects to the main feeder.

This post is not a question.

What is the question? Because of thread drift, one cannot at all assume the question is the subject line.

Assuming the subject might be the question:

My understanding is that washing machines will indeed pump 8 feet above the floor but if you're not sure, get a guarantee in writing from the store selling you the machine that you can return it for cash. Or maybe one replacemen4t and cash if that one won't work. No extra delivery or installation charge, in writing.

If you already own it, connect an output hose that goes 8 feet up and then back down into the laundry sink or a big garbage can and see how it works. If it works, connect it permanently.

I guess in his case there is no laundry sink or he'd just use that.

You have a point.

So make the output hose end just after it rounds the top at 8' and have a second hose with a mouth big enough to catch all that comes out of the first hose. That ends the siphon effect and more closely resembles what will happen when the output is connected to the existing drain.

Or maybe just use one hose but put a substantial hole at the top, for air, to end the siphon effect, maybe with a tube stuck in it to resemble the air vent that all the drains in the house have, usually going up through the roof. Of course if he's as high as the ceiling already, I'm not sure where the tube will go. (It's purpose was to keep water from splashing out of the hose. Otherwise a hole would be enough.)

I also see the hard-to-read subject line implies he wants to go more than 8 feet high, to inside the ceiling. I guess he could knock a hole where the hole will eventually be if this works and go up 8.5 feet for the test hose.

I've mentioned in the past that the stream next to my house backs up into the laundry sink when it rains the right way, so I have to keep it plugged except when using the washing machine The 3 houses next to me have the same problem. When my next door n'bor wanted to put a bathroom in his basement, there is already (a light and) a drain under the cement, but for some reason I looked into upwardly pumping toilets and found that most washign machines also could go up 8 feet (and probably

8.5 feet.) His 27 year old kenmore does. So maybe he should write to LG and ask them if 8 feet is the limit or what?

Simple solution is to put in a laundry tub and one of these. Takes strain off the washer and you get the handy tub .

Yes. FWIW, I put a check valve in the drain of my laundry sink, but the first time the stream flooded, it didn't stop the water from filling the sink and overflowing. Maybe it slowed it, I don't have any way to tell.

The stream only floods on average once a year. I suspect the check valve was clogged with lint, but there is no way to check mine or clean it. Maybe draining water from the sink does something, but it clearly didnt' do enough.

My washing machine doesn't have a lint filter, only a lint chopper. It says it chops the lint up into smaller pieces. but I have a sort of lint filter in the drain hole of the sink (a tube of plastic with small holes at the bottom and bigger holes at the top. I do find lint clogging the smaller holes). And I used to have a mesh sock on the output hose from the washer. I dont' remember why I stopped using that, but iow, the check valve wasn't enough to stop the enormous back pressure from the stream. That's not the same as the water in a pipe going to the ceiling.

(My sump pump doesn't have a check valve either and every time it turns off, I hear 9 feet of water flow back into the sump. In that case, I assume I've wasted much less than a penny when the pump has to push it up again the next time. If I installed a 2nd pump, like a battery backup pump, I'd have to put check valves in both outputs)

On Sun, 21 Feb 2021 13:37:30 -0500, Ed Pawlowski posted for all of us to digest...

+many