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Posted by Charlie S. on June 6, 2006, 6:36 am
>>>
>>> >> Looking to make a four foot handicap cement ramp at the end of the
>> house
>>> >> walkway. The walkway is about 3 feet wide. There will be about a 5
>> inch
>>> >> drop in those four feet. I am going to remove the last 4 feet of
>>> >> level
>>> >> concrete before I begin.
>>> >>
>>> >> I was thinking of making a form with 2x4's on the long sides and
>> thinner
>>> >> plywood at each end. Then, nail a piece of plywood over the top.
>>> >> Pour
>>> >> cement into the form and let it harden.
>>> >>
>>> >> Couldn't find much on how to actually make this type of ramp. From
>> what
>>> >> I
>>> >> read, it didn't say anything about putting a top piece over the form.
>>> >> Rather, (if I remember correctly) it said to make the mix somewhat
>> firmer
>>> >> and start pouring at the lower end.
>>> >>
>>> >> Which way would be better? Or, should I look at this project
>>> >> differently?
>>> >>
>>> >> Other questions:
>>> >> Should the flooring be level and just the surface angled? I plan to
>> add
>>> >> some small stones before pouring.
>>> >>
>>> >> We live in New England. I bought the cheap $3.00 a bag Quickrete
>>> >> Concrete
>>> >> mix from Home Depot. Should I have bought the better mix for the
>> colder
>>> >> weather?
>>> >>
>>> > Way too big a pour for quickcrete. Unless you have lots of helpers,
>>> > you
>>> > will
>>> > never get it mixed, placed, and screeded in time.
>>> >
>>> > Better solution, and less of a turnoff to buyers, is to replace entire
>>> > sidewalk, and modify yard grading, to make the ramp vanish. If the
>>> > rise
>> is
>>> > over the whole length, it will barely be noticable. If that isn't in
>>> > the
>>> > budget, just do the upper 7 or 8 feet- four feet is way too short for
>>> > a
>>> > 5-inch rise, especially where ice is common. Bust out the existing
>>> > walk,
>>> > form up the ramp, with thick edges on the bottom, and maybe curbs on
>>> > top
>>> > if
>>> > there is a dropoff, and get the concrete delivered. I'd use 4" fabric
>>> > in
>>> > the
>>> > slab, to resist cracks and frost heaving.
>>> >
>>> > I haven't looked in a few years, but ADA and AIA used to have
>>> > brochures
>>> > about recommended standards for retrofits like this.
>>> >
>>> > aem sends...
>>>
>>> Didn't think about the icing. I'll do 7-8 feet minimum. Would call in
>>> a
>>> truck to dump some in if I went that far. The whole walkway is about 30
>>> feet long. If I did the whole thing it could turn into a 2-3 week
>> project.
>>> Not what I had in mind.
>>>
>>> I could hire someone, but don't want to spend $1000 to have it done. May
>>> get a couple quotes and find out what they want for this type of
>>> walkway.
>>> Thanks for the advice. Didn't think about the length of time it would
>> take
>>> to mix it myself. I was planning to rent a mixer.
>>>
>>> Just to make sure I understand. You wrote, "form up the ramp, with thick
>>> edges on the bottom." By the 'bottom', you are referring to the lowest
>> part
>>> of the ramp?
>>>
>> No, to the bottom surface of the new slab. The edges should be thicker to
>> resist cracking and frost heave, and so you don't have a visible gap
>> under
>> it if you don't regrade the yard up to it. This is especially true near
>> the
>> top of the ramp, where the visible edge may be 5-8 inches thick. The part
>> up
>> the center of the ramp doesn't need to be as thick. Is anybody pouring
>> sidewalks near you? Look in the hole- it is deeper at the edges near the
>> form boards. If you have never done or seen concrete work before, I'd buy
>> a
>> DIY book, or look on some web pages. The pictures will make it all a lot
>> clearer.
>>
>> aem sends...
>
> Thanks for the clarification. I never knew there was a difference in
> thickness in edges compared to the middle. I have a book put out by
> Quickkrete. Didn't have much on ramps. I'll check on what it says about
> making walkways.
>
> What I've done so far is reposition the end piece of this walkway at a
> downward angle. It's about 18 inches long. Thought that might let me get
> away from pouring a new ramp. Found out it is much too steep an incline
> for a scooter.... never thought about the ice.
>
> I used a long metal bar to help me move this last section. This section
> is about 6 inches thick. While moving it, the next section of the walkway
> was exposed. I was surprised how thin a layer of concrete was poured. I
> think it was only an inch or two. Surprisingly, it's held up well. The
> walkway is well over 50 years old. They used lots of pebbles and small
> rocks in the mix. Cracking is minimal. There is only one non-planned
> central crack in the whole walkway. Whoever built it is most likely long
> gone, but his work held up.
Woke up this morning with another idea. Let me know what you think.
Each section of the walkway is broken into 3 foot sections with the
exception of the thick end piece, which is about 18" long. I have already
repositioned this section. As it stands, it's sloped too steeply.
I noticed when I was using the long metal bar to remove the end piece that
much of the rest of the walkway shifted upward easily. This leads me to
believe each section is relatively light and could be moved with some ease.
If I could remove the last two or three sections without cracking them into
pieces, then I could regrade the ground beneath and replace each section at
a continuous sloping angle. I have already done that with the end piece.
It didn't take much time at all.
The difficult problems I foresee are;
1) Separating the sections without cracking.... there seems to be some
adhesional forces between each piece. I am not sure if there is concrete
connection beneath the dirt seams or at the edges. If so, then they might
have to be broken.
2) Forming a nice even slope so that everything blends in nicely when I
reset the sections.
3) I am only presuming each section is light. If each section is heavier
than I bargained for, then I might go back to the pouring concrete idea.
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