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Ceramic Tile Floor Installation Ultraglide 07-15-2006
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Posted by Ultraglide on July 15, 2006, 6:46 pm
I have a main floor powder room that I want to renovate. One item is a new
ceramic floor. It currently has a linoleum floor. I have a couple of
questions. Is it ok to put the new floor over top of the linoleum? Also, if
I use levelling compound, do I have to put a raised edge around the floor
and the toilet drain to stop it from flowing?



Posted by krw on July 15, 2006, 8:22 pm
sscully2.trash@cogeco.trash.ca says...
> I have a main floor powder room that I want to renovate. One item is a new
> ceramic floor. It currently has a linoleum floor. I have a couple of
> questions. Is it ok to put the new floor over top of the linoleum?

I wouldn't (and didn't). I don't like the idea of a hard tile
surface on a softer sub-floor. Tile is enough expense and work to
put down, I'd do the additional work to take up the linoleum (or
vinyl). Things may get diceier if the flooring is asbestos, but
I'd still rip it up (or move).

> Also, if
> I use levelling compound, do I have to put a raised edge around the floor
> and the toilet drain to stop it from flowing?

Dunno, never used it. Tile really doesn't have to be level, only
relatively flat. Thinset is good for leveling too and won't run
down the drain, though I do make sure it's well covered before
using mud around it (getting mud in the works could make for a bad
day).

--
Keith

Posted by RayV on July 15, 2006, 9:17 pm

krw wrote:
> sscully2.trash@cogeco.trash.ca says...
> > I have a main floor powder room that I want to renovate. One item is a new
> > ceramic floor. It currently has a linoleum floor. I have a couple of
> > questions. Is it ok to put the new floor over top of the linoleum?
>
> I wouldn't (and didn't). I don't like the idea of a hard tile
> surface on a softer sub-floor. Tile is enough expense and work to
> put down, I'd do the additional work to take up the linoleum (or
> vinyl). Things may get diceier if the flooring is asbestos, but
> I'd still rip it up (or move).
>

I agree, rip it up and put down cement board or similar if the subfloor
has any flex at all. Unless you do use the leveling compound.

> > Also, if
> > I use levelling compound, do I have to put a raised edge around the floor
> > and the toilet drain to stop it from flowing?
>

The leveling compund will flow into cracks and gaps, it is about the
consistency of mustard when it is first mixed. Like Keith said you
don't need it if your floor is flat. If you do use it, mix enough to
do the whole floor in one batch. It needs a little help to self-level,
I used an old broom to spread it out. Also make sure you aren't going
to cause problems with your toilet, if the floor is too high at the
connection it could be difficult to fix.


Posted by krw on July 15, 2006, 10:08 pm
NunyaBiznas@comcast.net says...

> Also make sure you aren't going
> to cause problems with your toilet, if the floor is too high at the
> connection it could be difficult to fix.

Shouldn't be too much of a problem. They sell 1/2" extender rings
that fit over the waste flange and thick was seals. I use both
when I tile (w/hardibacker) under my toilets.

--
Keith

Posted by Ultraglide on July 16, 2006, 12:17 pm
I don't know what they call it but I have seen the flexible rubber?
extenders that go over the horn and fit down the drain pipe. Anyone used
one of these instead of the extender rings or thicker seals.
> NunyaBiznas@comcast.net says...
>
>> Also make sure you aren't going
>> to cause problems with your toilet, if the floor is too high at the
>> connection it could be difficult to fix.
>
> Shouldn't be too much of a problem. They sell 1/2" extender rings
> that fit over the waste flange and thick was seals. I use both
> when I tile (w/hardibacker) under my toilets.
>
> --
> Keith



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