Cheap peel-n-stick floor tile doesn't stick

	Cheap peel-n-stick floor tile doesn't stick

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Subject

Author

Date

Cheap peel-n-stick floor tile doesn't stick

Mike

06-04-2007

Re: Cheap peel-n-stick floor tile doesn't stick

Goedjn

06-04-2007

Re: Cheap peel-n-stick floor tile doesn't stick

Meat Plow

06-04-2007

Re: Cheap peel-n-stick floor tile doesn't stick

C. Batch

06-04-2007

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Posted by Oren on June 4, 2007, 6:44 pm

>What sort of adhesive

>would be suitable? Would I need to remove the existing adhesive from

>the tile backs?

Something along these lines, BUT ensure it is compatible with vinyl.

I have a can of spray adhesive. For a temporary application spray one
side, allow to tack and then set. For permanent application spray
both sides, allow to tack and then set.

http://www.abatix.com/default.aspx?page=item%20detail&itemcode=3M77

Good Luck!

--
Oren

..through the use of electrical or duct tape, achieve the configuration in the
photo..

Posted by Norminn on June 4, 2007, 7:19 pm

clipped

>>>I'm thinking leaving the bricks would probably work... :)

>>>To OP, what do the installation guidelines say about suitable surfaces

>>>for application and preparation?

>>>I've not used apeel 'n stickproduct in over 40 years so no clue as

>>>to how well any of them currently work. We put them down in the

>>>kitchen of the frat house back in the early 60s (uncle the Armstrong

>>>dealer donated a bunch of overstock to us). They worked reasonably

>>>well over a subfloor until the house was sold some 25 years later...

>>a heat gun or hair dryer will help. but likely you will need some adhesive

>>as well

> Tried a hair dryer - it made zero difference. What sort of adhesive

> would be suitable? Would I need to remove the existing adhesive from

> the tile backs?

I wonder if the floor could have enough moisture to keep the tile from
sticking. Have you tried a tile somewhere else (dryer)? Also, try
scuffing the paint, clean it well with denatured alcohol...let fumes
clear and ventilate well. Then, try the hairdryer before you apply the
tile. If it doesn't work, paint on some faux tiles - fun to do :o)

Posted by Mike on June 4, 2007, 3:42 pm

> > >I bought a small batch of inexpensive vinyl peel and stick floor tile

> > >for a 3'x15' basement closet. This closet doesn't get a lot of use,

> > >so wearability is really not an issue (that's why I bought the cheap

> > >tiles). I simply wanted to cover the floor. If I recall correctly,

> > >this floor was painted with an oil-based floor paint about 15 years

> > >ago. The paint is sound and appears to be adhering well (the paint

> > >stayed on the floor when I picked up one of the tiles). The adhesive

> > >on the tile doesn't appear to be lacking - in fact, in a few places,

> > >it squeezed out from between the joints. I should also note that

> > >drops of paint and poly from previous projects are difficult to remove

> > >from this floor, so it doesn't appear to be an oil or wax problem. I

> > >tried putting bricks on the tiles, hoping that ensuring contact

> > >between the adhesive and the floor would help, but, after clamping it

> > >overnight, there was no difference.

> > >What can I use to stick these tiles to the floor?

> > Have you tried staples?

> I'm thinking leaving the bricks would probably work... :)

I'll leave them for a couple more days and see what happens.

> To OP, what do the installation guidelines say about suitable surfaces

> for application and preparation?

Under "Suitable Surfaces", it lists "Painted floors - where paint is
firmly bonded" As I said, this appears to be the case, particularly
since the paint stays on the floor when I lift a tile. It was no more
specific than that. It also gave the standard "free of dirt, oil and
wax" warning.

> I've not used apeel 'n stickproduct in over 40 years so no clue as

> to how well any of them currently work. We put them down in the

> kitchen of the frat house back in the early 60s (uncle the Armstrong

> dealer donated a bunch of overstock to us). They worked reasonably

> well over a subfloor until the house was sold some 25 years later...

I installed Armstrong self-stick tiles on a concrete basement floor in
my previous house about 20 years ago and they still looked good five
years later when we moved. They were a bit more expensive than these,
though.

Posted by dpb on June 4, 2007, 4:54 pm

> > > >I bought a small batch of inexpensive vinyl peel and stick floor tile

> > > >for a 3'x15' basement closet. This closet doesn't get a lot of use,

> > > >so wearability is really not an issue (that's why I bought the cheap

> > > >tiles). I simply wanted to cover the floor. If I recall correctly,

> > > >this floor was painted with an oil-based floor paint about 15 years

> > > >ago. The paint is sound and appears to be adhering well (the paint

> > > >stayed on the floor when I picked up one of the tiles). The adhesive

> > > >on the tile doesn't appear to be lacking - in fact, in a few places,

> > > >it squeezed out from between the joints. I should also note that

> > > >drops of paint and poly from previous projects are difficult to remove

> > > >from this floor, so it doesn't appear to be an oil or wax problem. I

> > > >tried putting bricks on the tiles, hoping that ensuring contact

> > > >between the adhesive and the floor would help, but, after clamping it

> > > >overnight, there was no difference.

> > > >What can I use to stick these tiles to the floor?

> > > Have you tried staples?

> > I'm thinking leaving the bricks would probably work... :)

> I'll leave them for a couple more days and see what happens.

> > To OP, what do the installation guidelines say about suitable surfaces

> > for application and preparation?

> Under "Suitable Surfaces", it lists "Painted floors - where paint is

> firmly bonded" As I said, this appears to be the case, particularly

> since the paint stays on the floor when I lift a tile. It was no more

> specific than that. It also gave the standard "free of dirt, oil and

> wax" warning.

Other than then wonder what you did about cleaning first and the other
respondent's comment about possibly being rough rather than really
smooth, not much more in the way of ideas.

Obviously, you could just trowel on some mastic and lay them as if
they weren't sticky buns, but that sorta' defeats the purpose... :) I
wouldn't think it would make any difference about the existing
adhesive if you did that...

--

Posted by mm on June 5, 2007, 12:31 am

>> I've not used apeel 'n stickproduct in over 40 years so no clue as

>> to how well any of them currently work. We put them down in the

>> kitchen of the frat house back in the early 60s (uncle the Armstrong

>> dealer donated a bunch of overstock to us). They worked reasonably

>> well over a subfloor until the house was sold some 25 years later...

>I installed Armstrong self-stick tiles on a concrete basement floor in

>my previous house about 20 years ago and they still looked good five

>years later when we moved. They were a bit more expensive than these,

>though.

One thing you could do is buy more expensive ones, best if you buy at
the same store. If they work, I'd return the first ones and point out
that I had bought the second ones because the first didn't work.

Although at many stores these days, they dojn't care a bit why you are
returning them. Are we talking about more than a box? If so, a
lesson for all of us: When putting down tiles, don't put down more
than a few to see if they will stick. And at least not more than a
box.

Page 2 of 3 < 1 2 3 > last >>

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