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Posted by Joe on November 10, 2006, 10:51 am
Hi:
Can I replace a single switch that's currently controlling a
receptacle, with a combination fan/light switch to use for a new
ceiling fan?
I want to run 14-3 for a new ceiling fan installation to the current
switch, make the current switched outlet always hot and replace the
switch with a combination switch.
My main question is, can this combination switch be used from one hot
wire that was used in the single switch and it will control the light
and fan separately?
THANKS in advance for any help!!!!
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Posted by Viewer on November 10, 2006, 11:05 am
Hi Joe,
Yes, you can. I did it at my house and its fairly easy. You are correct
that you should be using 14-3 as you need the two seperately switched
hots (1 for light, 1 for fan). Also you will need two half-height
switches so that you can have 2 switches in 1 wall box. It gets a bit
cramped in th ebox but patience pprevails.
I did 2 and the first (including running the wiring in the walls and up
to the ceiling too about 3 hous and the second time it took barely an
hour.
Good luck!
Joe wrote:
> Hi:
>
> Can I replace a single switch that's currently controlling a
> receptacle, with a combination fan/light switch to use for a new
> ceiling fan?
> I want to run 14-3 for a new ceiling fan installation to the current
> switch, make the current switched outlet always hot and replace the
> switch with a combination switch.
> My main question is, can this combination switch be used from one hot
> wire that was used in the single switch and it will control the light
> and fan separately?
>
> THANKS in advance for any help!!!!
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Posted by on November 10, 2006, 12:26 pm
Viewer wrote:
> Yes, you can. I did it at my house and its fairly easy. You are correct
> that you should be using 14-3 as you need the two seperately switched
> hots (1 for light, 1 for fan). Also you will need two half-height
> switches so that you can have 2 switches in 1 wall box. It gets a bit
> cramped in th ebox but patience pprevails.
> Joe wrote:
> > Can I replace a single switch that's currently controlling a
> > receptacle, with a combination fan/light switch to use for a new
> > ceiling fan?
V & J:
First: I am not an electrician, but a homeowner. I am telling you what
I
would do. You will need to comply with the AHJ in your area and use
sufficient knowledge & workmanship for a safe installation.
I'd advise to replace the single-gang box with a double, and make it
nice
and big. Using an old work box, this will not be hard (but be careful
not to
jigsaw the cables, and don't ask why I warned about that) and the two
$2 or so switches, plus the box, will cost no more than one
double-switch
device. I find it's nicer to work with single switches and shallow,
wider
boxes.
I am assuming you are using a box listed for fan support, and throwing
away the cheapie fan mfr wire connectors and using Ideal yellow wire
nuts,
and maintaining a workmanship standard that will meet approval of the
AHJ.
First situation: one 14/2 entering the old box, one 14/2 leaving the
box, to
end at the switched light. Replace 14/2 from switch to light with 14/3
for
fan/light control.
Wall box size required:
1 - 14/2, 2 conductor allowances
1 - 14/3, 3 " "
Grounds, 1 " " for all
Clamps, 1 " " (if internal clamps used)
Devices - 1 dual switch (2 allowances) or 2 single (2 x 2 = 4
allowances)
Total allowances required: 9 for dual switch, 11 for two single.
Volume per allowance for 14 AWG = 2.00 cu in.
You will need a 18 cu in box (3 1/2" deep device box) for the dual
switch
or 22 cu in (two 2 1/2" deep device boxes ganged together) for the two
singles.
Box types given are steel; plastic boxes are marked with volume.
Connections:
Wire nut both neutrals together. Connect two pigtails to hot of 14/2
feed,
run one pigtail to each switch. Other terminal from each switch goes
to
one hot of the 14/3. At the fan, the 14/3 neutral goes to the fan's
neutral;
one hot goes to the fan, the other to the light. Connect grounds
properly and
use good workmanship as usual.
Second situation: Power fed at ceiling light. One 14/2 cable enters
wall box,
used as switch loop. Both conductors at box connected to switch.
Replace with 14/3 switch loop.
Wall box size required:
1 - 14/3, 3 conductor allowances
Grounds, 1 " " for all
Clamps, 1 " " (if internal clamps used)
Devices - 1 dual switch (2 allowances) or 2 single (2 x 2 = 4
allowances)
Total allowances required: 7 for dual switch, 9 for two single.
Volume per allowance for 14 AWG = 2.00 cu in.
You will need a 14 cu in box (2 1/2" deep device box) for the dual
switch
or 18 cu in (two 2" deep device boxes ganged together, but two 2 1/4"
or
deeper would be better) for the two singles.
Box types given are steel; plastic boxes are marked with volume.
Connections:
Connect the fan's neutral to the neutral of the 14/2 feed in the
ceiling
box. Connect one hot from the fan to the factory-marked black hot
of the 14/3; the other hot from the fan to the red.
Permanently reidentify the neutral of the switch loop as hot. Connect
the hot of the ceiling-box feeder to the reidentified former neutral of
the
switch loop. Connect two pigtails (black) to the reidentified neutral
in the wall box, one pigtail going to each switch. Connect the red
switch-loop conductor to one switch, the factory-marked black to the
other. Make all necessary grounds and use good workmanship.
Remember, follow all safety precautions. Pull a permit and get the
work
inspected. Usenet is no place to learn everything about electrical
work.
Cordially yours:
G P
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Posted by Mark Lloyd on November 10, 2006, 8:47 pm
>Hi Joe,
>
>Yes, you can. I did it at my house and its fairly easy. You are correct
>that you should be using 14-3 as you need the two seperately switched
>hots (1 for light, 1 for fan). Also you will need two half-height
>switches so that you can have 2 switches in 1 wall box. It gets a bit
>cramped in th ebox but patience pprevails.
>
>I did 2 and the first (including running the wiring in the walls and up
>to the ceiling too about 3 hous and the second time it took barely an
>hour.
>
>Good luck!
>
Lowe's does have switches like that. They're available with 2 or 3
switches and fit in a single 1-gang box. One terminal of the switches
is common.
>
>Joe wrote:
>> Hi:
>>
>> Can I replace a single switch that's currently controlling a
>> receptacle, with a combination fan/light switch to use for a new
>> ceiling fan?
>> I want to run 14-3 for a new ceiling fan installation to the current
>> switch, make the current switched outlet always hot and replace the
>> switch with a combination switch.
>> My main question is, can this combination switch be used from one hot
>> wire that was used in the single switch and it will control the light
>> and fan separately?
>>
>> THANKS in advance for any help!!!!
--
45 days until the winter solstice celebration
Mark Lloyd
http://notstupid.laughingsquid.com
"God was invented by man for a reason, that
reason is no longer applicable."
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Posted by Nate Nagel on November 10, 2006, 9:05 pm
Mark Lloyd wrote:
>
>
>>Hi Joe,
>>
>>Yes, you can. I did it at my house and its fairly easy. You are correct
>>that you should be using 14-3 as you need the two seperately switched
>>hots (1 for light, 1 for fan). Also you will need two half-height
>>switches so that you can have 2 switches in 1 wall box. It gets a bit
>>cramped in th ebox but patience pprevails.
>>
>>I did 2 and the first (including running the wiring in the walls and up
>>to the ceiling too about 3 hous and the second time it took barely an
>>hour.
>>
>>Good luck!
>>
>
>
> Lowe's does have switches like that. They're available with 2 or 3
> switches and fit in a single 1-gang box. One terminal of the switches
> is common.
Similar question: does anyone make a switch for a ceiling fan without a
light switch? I have a two gang box that used to contain a light switch
and a receptacle and I want to get rid of the receptacle (there's
another one down near the floor; I'm sure there was a reason for putting
it there but I don't see it and it looks silly.) Am thinking of putting
a ceiling fan in the kitchen anyway so this would kill two birds with
one stone and save me from having to patch the wall.
nate
--
replace "fly" with "com" to reply.
http://home.comcast.net/~njnagel
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