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Compact Fluorescent and Bathroom Mirror?

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Compact Fluorescent and Bathroom Mirror? Edward 06-23-2007
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Posted by jJim McLaughlin on June 23, 2007, 9:00 pm
Edward wrote:
> We have a set of lights that basically heat the place up like a
> toaster oven. So I was thinking abotu putting a bunch of CFLs in
> there.
> Can I do that with a fixture like this? Or can't one have too many
> CFLs on the same circuit?
>
> http://aycu29.webshots.com/image/19508/2002465564101867842_rs.jpg
>
I have six bulb bath bar lights in each of two separate bathrooms.

Each uses all CFLs, with a whitish frosted globe cover.

Number of CFLs has never been a problem.

AppliancePartsPros.com, Inc.
Posted by Paul M. Eldridge on June 24, 2007, 12:04 pm
wrote:

>We have a set of lights that basically heat the place up like a
>toaster oven. So I was thinking abotu putting a bunch of CFLs in
>there.
>Can I do that with a fixture like this? Or can't one have too many
>CFLs on the same circuit?
>
>http://aycu29.webshots.com/image/19508/2002465564101867842_rs.jpg

Hi Edward,

Another option is to simply replace the fixture with a two tube 4 ft.
T8 fluorescent strip (approximate cost, $25.00) and build a valance
that is open at the top and bottom so that more light can be
distributed throughout the room.

A fluorescent strip would consume just 60-watts and two good quality
T8 fluorescent tubes would provide upwards of 6,300 lumens of light --
roughly the same amount of light as fifteen or more 40-watt G25
incandescents. For residential bathrooms, I might recommend a T8 lamp
with a 3,000K colour temperature and a CRI (colour rendering index) of
85 or higher (e.g., a GE SPX30). The Philips 32T8/ADV830 is another
excellent choice.

Not only are linear fluorescents less costly to replace, they produce
1.5 to 2.0 times more light, watt for watt, last two to three times
longer than a standard CFL and the quality of the light they provide
is generally superior. They also produce more light at startup and
reach full brightness more quickly.

Best regards,
Paul

Posted by ransley on June 24, 2007, 12:32 pm
wrote:
> wrote:
>
> >We have a set of lights that basically heat the place up like a
> >toaster oven. So I was thinking abotu putting a bunch of CFLs in
> >there.
> >Can I do that with a fixture like this? Or can't one have too many
> >CFLs on the same circuit?
>
> >http://aycu29.webshots.com/image/19508/2002465564101867842_rs.jpg
>
> Hi Edward,
>
> Another option is to simply replace the fixture with a two tube 4 ft.
> T8 fluorescent strip (approximate cost, $25.00) and build a valance
> that is open at the top and bottom so that more light can be
> distributed throughout the room.
>
> A fluorescent strip would consume just 60-watts and two good quality
> T8 fluorescent tubes would provide upwards of 6,300 lumens of light --
> roughly the same amount of light as fifteen or more 40-watt G25
> incandescents. For residential bathrooms, I might recommend a T8 lamp
> with a 3,000K colour temperature and a CRI (colour rendering index) of
> 85 or higher (e.g., a GE SPX30). The Philips 32T8/ADV830 is another
> excellent choice.
>
> Not only are linear fluorescents less costly to replace, they produce
> 1.5 to 2.0 times more light, watt for watt, last two to three times
> longer than a standard CFL and the quality of the light they provide
> is generally superior. They also produce more light at startup and
> reach full brightness more quickly.
>
> Best regards,
> Paul

T 12 flourescent and electronic ballast would be the most efficient.


Posted by on June 24, 2007, 12:47 pm
We have globe-style "GE BIAX" CFLs in our vanity. Only problem is they
take for-EVER to come up to full brightness. If you can live with
that, they're fine and should run a lot cooler. Maybe other brands
aren't as bad.


Posted by Don Klipstein on June 24, 2007, 1:05 pm
tylernt@gmail.com wrote:

>We have globe-style "GE BIAX" CFLs in our vanity. Only problem is they
>take for-EVER to come up to full brightness. If you can live with
>that, they're fine and should run a lot cooler. Maybe other brands
>aren't as bad.

If warmup is an issue, then I would go for linear fluorescents as
proposed by Paul Eldridge. If the lamps must be screw-in CFLs, I would
see if bare spirals would be acceptable.

In my experience, compact fluorescents with outer bulbs mostly tend to
be even worse at warmup requirements than ones without, such as bare
spirals.

What I consider the likely explanation: In a CFL with an outer bulb,
the fluorescent tubing reaches a higher temperature. So it has to be
designed for its performance to be optimum at that higher temperature.

As a result, it starts dimmer than a bare spiral CFL does, and takes
more time to heat itself to the higher temperature, along with heating up
the outer bulb in order to reach full operating temperature.

CFLs with more severe warmup requirements tend to have a wider range of
ambient temperature over which they work well. As a result, ones for
outdoor use tend to have outer bulbs, start dim, and take a minute (or
more) to get close to full light output.

- Don Klipstein (don@misty.com)

Page 3 of 4       < 1 2 3 > last >>
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