Concrete over old cast sewer pipe??

Posted by EXT on October 21, 2009, 12:09 pm

> > heirlooms wrote:

> > > Help.. My 19 year old Son bought a very old house (1890's), during
> > > renovations, he wanted to pour the very small basement (17' x 25')
> > > in order to install a new furnace, he removed the old oil tank and
> > > had gas installed, he then dug out 6 inches of soil as it was
> > > contaminated with old oil. The problem is, that the large cast
> > > iron sewer pipe was only 1" below the soil, which he has now
> > > completely uncovered, its not broke, so we don't want to fix it,
> > > there seems to be a clean out valve? on top, we have no idea how
> > > to pour concrete with this obstruction? Do we pour stone around
> > > it and protect it? it runs down the center of the small space.
> > > Help, this was an easy job, we thought, if somebody could run
> > > quickly through what should be put down first, whether stone, or
> > > seal type cover etc.. thank you
> > > -------------------------------------

> > I think it would be considerably easier to replace the old pipe now
> > rather than breaking up the concrete slab later if there should be a
> > problem. You already have it exposed and PVC is inexpensive. Not
> > only that you may be able to place the new pipe lower.

> You will probably not be able to lower the pipe unless you lower the
> sewer lateral running to the street, which could be expensive, it is
> the same as having a new one installed. Doing so would solve a number
> of problems. Or you would install a sewage pump where the lateral
> exits the houst in order to lower the basement line. This is the old
> "snowball effect", just as a snowball gets bigger rolling down a
> hill, renovations to old houses grow in size as the "might as well do
> it" factor keeps popping up.

If this was a dirt floor, I am sure that you have no sinks or toilets in the
basement. Then I would do the same thing that people who have septic tanks
with a high outlet in the basement, since it is very expensive to lower the
sewer lateral to the street.

Get a plumber in to cut the line where it exits the house and as high as
possible in the stack just under the first floor. Rip out all the cast iron
in the basement floor (sell it for scrap iron). Reinstall a plastic line
from the bottom of the cut stack across the ceiling, or along a wall,
somewhere out of the way, over the the exit point then down to connect with
the outlet line. This will clear the floor for you to do whatever you want.
Be sure to put a layer of washed gravel over the dirt and heavy poly sheet
plastic over the gravel before pouring the concrete. This will keep dampness
from wicking up through the floor.

Posted by aemeijers on October 19, 2009, 6:35 pm

heirlooms wrote:

> Help.. My 19 year old Son bought a very old house (1890's), during
> renovations, he wanted to pour the very small basement (17' x 25') in
> order to install a new furnace, he removed the old oil tank and had gas
> installed, he then dug out 6 inches of soil as it was contaminated with
> old oil. The problem is, that the large cast iron sewer pipe was only 1"
> below the soil, which he has now completely uncovered, its not broke, so
> we don't want to fix it, there seems to be a clean out valve? on top, we
> have no idea how to pour concrete with this obstruction? Do we pour stone
> around it and protect it? it runs down the center of the small space.
> Help, this was an easy job, we thought, if somebody could run quickly
> through what should be put down first, whether stone, or seal type cover
> etc.. thank you
>
> -------------------------------------
>
>
>

Common situation in old commercial buildings. One cheap but PITA
solution- form a trench around all or part of the pipe, and cap it with
steel plate just sitting in grooves on the edge of the trench. There is
one maybe 30 feet long in the basement of the 1902 wing of the building
I work in. Maybe the preformed french drain channel they sell to put
drains in front of garage doors would work for the trench part, if you
can find it big enough. Any scrap steel or whatever would work for the
lid, if you can find a cheap way to get it cut. When you need access to
the pipe for inspection or repair, just drag the plates out of the way.

--
aem sends...

Posted by Rick Samuel on October 19, 2009, 11:14 pm

If you don't want to mess with the pipe now, put forms around it, with a
lip for what ever cover you want to use. 2x6, steel

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Concrete over old cast sewer pipe?? - Page 2