If you were Registered and logged in, you could reply and use other advanced thread options
|
Posted by Fpbear II on January 13, 2007, 9:57 pm
It turned out to be a power company problem. While driving in the ground
rods I looked up and noticed that the neutral line connector was broken off
at the power pole! So I called out the power company and Southern CA Edison
showed up within an hour to fix it. Now the voltages are reading normal at
the outlets.
> Nothing right or wrong in the ground system can causse you to have 134
> volts at an outlet and you will never stop having voltages between
> differing grounds. The advice you have been given is good, you need a good
> ground and it needs to be done according to all applicable codes. Having
> 134 volts at an outlet can only be a result of excessive input from the
> power company or a high resistance in the neutral line. Having voltages
> between different grounds is perfectly normal and will always exist.
>
> Don Young
>
|
 
| |
Posted by volts500 on January 14, 2007, 3:23 am
Fpbear II wrote:
> Good tips. I should note that the existing ground wire coming out of the
> service panel ends at a clamp on a copper pipe.
If you have interior metal water pipes, IMO, you should leave that wire
and clamp alone, other than to check to see that it is tight, or to
replace the clamp if it is corroded. If your interior water pipes are
metal and that wire is removed, in the event that the pipes
accidentally become energized by a circuit or equipment, a serious
shock hazard will exist. Also, if your interior pipes are metal, and
the water meter is inside the house, it should be jumpered. The hot
water line should also be jumpered to the cold water line at the water
heater. Same for any water conditioning equipment, etc.
> This copper pipe was cut
> somewhere not too far under the ground for the PVC.
This is exactly why NEC requires that an underground metal water used
to ground an electric system be supplemented with a ground
rod....somebody comes along and replaces the underground water pipe
with plastic. IIRC, this requirement came about around 1978 or so. If
your house is newer than that, you may want to take a closer look and
try to find a wire that may already go to a ground rod.
> I wasn't around when
> this re-piping project was done, but I am getting crazy voltages, 134V at a
> couple outlets, and 4V difference between this ground wire and the fence
> post, so I'm sure this is part of the problem. I was intending to leave the
> copper pipe clamp like it is and just "extend" the system so it can also
> benefit from this little pipe section.
You could drive the ground rods and run the wire, leaving enough extra
wire to reach both the panel and the old connection at the water pipe.
That way when the electrical contractor comes to make the connection
they will have a choice. Even though the NEC permits them to make a
crimp connection to the wire at the water pipe, they may refuse to do
it. I know I would. It's better practice and easier (for someone
willing to go into the panel) just to take it to the panel.
> I will make sure it is done right,
> probably leave some extra wire near the service panel till I figure out how
> to make the connection.
Since you don't feel comfortable getting inside the panel, I think
Pete C.'s suggestion was best.....do all the other work, then call a
qualified electricial contractor to make the final connection to the
panel.....while they are at it they can check what you did to be sure
everything is OK.
Proper electric system grounding is critical, and unfortunately,
improper grounding is usually not evident until a fault occurs, then
it's too late.
If you do decide to make the connection to the panel, for safety,
especially in this case, since you have no existing system ground, it's
important that the final connection to the panel be made while the
panel is de-energized.
It would probably be best to call your local electrical inspector to
see if an inspection is required.
|
|
Posted by on January 14, 2007, 1:22 pm
wrote:
>Good tips. I should note that the existing ground wire coming out of the
>service panel ends at a clamp on a copper pipe. This copper pipe was cut
>somewhere not too far under the ground for the PVC. I wasn't around when
>this re-piping project was done, but I am getting crazy voltages, 134V at a
>couple outlets, and 4V difference between this ground wire and the fence
>post, so I'm sure this is part of the problem. I was intending to leave the
>copper pipe clamp like it is and just "extend" the system so it can also
>benefit from this little pipe section. I will make sure it is done right,
>probably leave some extra wire near the service panel till I figure out how
>to make the connection.
Fixing the ground will not fix your erratic voltages at the
receptacles. That is a function of the neutral wire going back to the
utility
|
|
Posted by DK on January 13, 2007, 1:36 pm
wrote:
>Thank you Bob, I'll braze the split bolt connector. I have a torch that I
>used years ago to fix a copper water pipe. I don't remember how to solder
>with it but I think I can find some crash course on the net. Still a bit
>curious how this affects the physical properties of the electricity running
>through the wire.
>
>
>
>> One continuous conductor, unless spliced with an irreversible connections
>> such as an exothermic weld (solder is not good enough). Do you have
>> access to a good torch? I would use a split bolt connector and then after
>> tightening it braze shut it with 40% silver solder. Solid #6 wire should
>> be enough; no need to use #4 unless the wire is subject to being damaged
>> by a lawn mower or something.
>>
>> Bob
>
Yes, Bob. You do that and it will be more than enough.
It will last a few hundred years, at least..
Don't listen to all the crap I'm hearing from the jerks that want you
to spend a fortune on some fancy overkill stuff.
|
|
Posted by CJT on January 13, 2007, 5:10 pm
DK wrote:
> wrote:
>
>
>>Thank you Bob, I'll braze the split bolt connector. I have a torch that I
>>used years ago to fix a copper water pipe. I don't remember how to solder
>>with it but I think I can find some crash course on the net. Still a bit
>>curious how this affects the physical properties of the electricity running
>>through the wire.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>>One continuous conductor, unless spliced with an irreversible connections
>>>such as an exothermic weld (solder is not good enough). Do you have
>>>access to a good torch? I would use a split bolt connector and then after
>>>tightening it braze shut it with 40% silver solder. Solid #6 wire should
>>>be enough; no need to use #4 unless the wire is subject to being damaged
>>>by a lawn mower or something.
>>>
>>>Bob
>>
>
> Yes, Bob. You do that and it will be more than enough.
Will it meet code?
>
> It will last a few hundred years, at least..
>
> Don't listen to all the crap I'm hearing from the jerks that want you
> to spend a fortune on some fancy overkill stuff.
>
>
--
The e-mail address in our reply-to line is reversed in an attempt to
minimize spam. Our true address is of the form che...@prodigy.net.
|
Page 3 of 8 < 1 2 3 > last >>
| Similar Threads | Posted | | Bonded ground wires vs. earth ground wire | December 25, 2006, 6:08 pm |
| Trying to improve earth ground. | January 1, 2006, 10:23 pm |
| Adding Separate Ground Wire to 2-wire Circuit | December 30, 2006, 12:09 pm |
| how to add a ground wire to my two wire house? | June 22, 2007, 11:56 pm |
| miles of old copper wire | August 17, 2005, 7:20 am |
| striiping copper wire | May 4, 2008, 8:18 am |
| Copper wire vs. roof mold | October 16, 2005, 4:00 pm |
| Price for copper wire to sub panel? | June 14, 2006, 1:31 pm |
| Underground Copper Wire Green? | September 2, 2008, 10:23 am |
| Spa Ground Wire | November 21, 2005, 12:09 pm |
|
|
Yahoo! 
Google 
Windows Live 
del.icio.us 
digg 
Netscape 
XML Sitemap