Contractor hit a wire while nailing up moulding in kitchen

Posted by mm on October 12, 2009, 11:54 pm

>Thanks guys.
>He was using a nail gun. The moulding was top of wall against the ceiling.
>1920's house. No dry wall in rest of house, so I doubt any in kitchen.
>This was relayed to me by wifey. I was at work. :(

If you have a wife, have her lie awake worrying about fire. You need
your sleep.

>What's wiring doing up there anyways?

>>> Had a guy come in to help put up wood moulding in the kitchen. Must
>>> have hit a wire becaue it blew a breaker.
>>> He pulled the nail out (small nail) and hammered it in elsewhere.
>>> Flipped the breaker back on. Said don't worry about it.
>>> Now I lie awake at night fearing its a fire hazard.
>>> Is it?

>> My first thought is why did he hit it with a small nail? When you say
>> small you mean short? Finish nails from a nail gun are small as in narrow
>> but can be 2.5" long.
>> In theory, wires should be running through the middle of studs 1.75"
>> back. That + 1/2" drywall is 2.25. Then add in molding thickness.
>> Wiring that is run too close to edge of stud should have a metal plate.
>> But that does nothing if the wiring is close to the inside of the drywall
>> between the studs.
>> Where did it happen? In the field of a wall, top near ceiling, near
>> floor?

Posted by fftt on October 13, 2009, 2:38 am

> Had a guy come in to help put up wood moulding in the kitchen. =A0Must ha=

> hit a wire becaue it blew a breaker.
> He pulled the nail out (small nail) and hammered it in elsewhere. =A0Flip=

ped

> the breaker back on. =A0Said don't worry about it.
> Now I lie awake at night fearing its a fire hazard.
> Is it?

Post some photos of the location; overall shots & some closeups

I own a 1930 house & have taken apart, restored / rebuilt most of
it.

Was the original K&T (knob & tube) replaced? Did some do it
correctly or just jury rig in some Romex (NM)?

I think I ansered my own questions...I think it would be rather
difficult to short a K&T run with a single brad. SO it must be
rewired with romex such that a single brad shot would create a short.

Shorting a knob & tube system with a nail gun fired finishing nail or
brad would be kinda hard to do if:
1) the proper length fastener was used
2) wires were / are properly placed.

I wouldn't "worry" about it but I'd make a mental (or written) note of
it, so when (if) problems happen oyu can know where to look.

How big (diameter & length) was the fastener? I hope he picked a
resonably sized nail otherwise he's kinda the cause of this mishap.

Brads & finishing nails don't need much more than 1" penetration into
the "true" receiving member.....the timber beyond the drywall.

For a 1/16" (16 gage) brad ....3/4" penetration is a bit small, 1
1/2" is a bit too much .....1" or so it just about right.

So when picking fastener length I shoot for about 16 fastener
diameters into the receiving member (not including the drywal) but I
also consider the over penetration issues on plumbing & wiring. I
tend to pick the shortest nail that will do the job

cheers
Bob

Posted by John Grabowski on October 13, 2009, 7:38 am

"> Had a guy come in to help put up wood moulding in the kitchen. Must have
> hit a wire becaue it blew a breaker.
> He pulled the nail out (small nail) and hammered it in elsewhere. Flipped
> the breaker back on. Said don't worry about it.
> Now I lie awake at night fearing its a fire hazard.
> Is it?

*In a 1920's house that has had some electrical improvements over the years
it is possible to have wiring anywhere. This is the kind of thing that will
surface as a problem weeks, months or years from now. By nailing into the
wiring and causing a dead short some of the copper wire is probably nicked.
The wire may only be connected at that point by a hair, more or less.
Depending on the load that travels over that point it can overheat and if it
is in contact with combustible materials will burn whatever it touches.
Eventually the wire will burn apart and whatever it is feeding will become
dead. To answer your question: Yes it is a potential fire hazard.

For safety and piece of mind get an electrician in there and have him take a
look.

Posted by bob haller on October 13, 2009, 7:44 am

> "> Had a guy come in to help put up wood moulding in the kitchen. =EF=BF=

=BDMust have

> > hit a wire becaue it blew a breaker.
> > He pulled the nail out (small nail) and hammered it in elsewhere. =EF=

=BF=BDFlipped

> > the breaker back on. =EF=BF=BDSaid don't worry about it.
> > Now I lie awake at night fearing its a fire hazard.
> > Is it?

> *In a 1920's house that has had some electrical improvements over the yea=

> it is possible to have wiring anywhere. =EF=BF=BDThis is the kind of thin=

g that will

> surface as a problem weeks, months or years from now. =EF=BF=BDBy nailing=

into the

> wiring and causing a dead short some of the copper wire is probably nicke=

> The wire may only be connected at that point by a hair, more or less.
> Depending on the load that travels over that point it can overheat and if=

> is in contact with combustible materials will burn whatever it touches.
> Eventually the wire will burn apart and whatever it is feeding will becom=

> dead. =EF=BF=BDTo answer your question: Yes it is a potential fire hazard=

> For safety and piece of mind get an electrician in there and have him tak=

e a

> look.

EXACTLY! open the wall and inspect the damage. perhaps access it from
the other side.

its a real potential fire hazard

Posted by on October 13, 2009, 8:01 am

> > "> Had a guy come in to help put up wood moulding in the kitchen. Must =

have

> > > hit a wire becaue it blew a breaker.
> > > He pulled the nail out (small nail) and hammered it in elsewhere. Fli=

pped

> > > the breaker back on. Said don't worry about it.
> > > Now I lie awake at night fearing its a fire hazard.
> > > Is it?

> > *In a 1920's house that has had some electrical improvements over the y=

ears

> > it is possible to have wiring anywhere. This is the kind of thing that =

will

> > surface as a problem weeks, months or years from now. By nailing into t=

> > wiring and causing a dead short some of the copper wire is probably nic=

ked.

> > The wire may only be connected at that point by a hair, more or less.
> > Depending on the load that travels over that point it can overheat and =

if it

> > is in contact with combustible materials will burn whatever it touches.
> > Eventually the wire will burn apart and whatever it is feeding will bec=

ome

> > dead. To answer your question: Yes it is a potential fire hazard.
> > For safety and piece of mind get an electrician in there and have him t=

ake a

> > look.

> EXACTLY! open the wall and inspect the damage. perhaps access it from
> the other side.
> its a real potential fire hazard- Hide quoted text -
> - Show quoted text -

Agree with John and Bob. I would also say the contractor is not
responsible for this. As others have pointed out, wiring is supposed
to be run far enough back that a finishing nail from molding can't
reach it or else have a metal plate covering it.

Page 2 of 10 < 1 2 3 > last >>

Similar Threads	Posted
kitchen crown moulding problem - long	June 30, 2005, 1:35 pm
Installing Crown Moulding on Kitchen Cabinets... condition them first?	February 10, 2005, 2:09 pm
Installing Crown Moulding on Kitchen Cabinets... condition them first?	February 10, 2005, 6:29 pm
kitchen contractor ordered the wrong cabinets, now what?	February 18, 2006, 10:04 pm
Kitchen range Hood/Vent in attic - How to Wire?	February 20, 2006, 12:36 am
frayed electrical wire behind kitchen stove/microwave	August 9, 2006, 8:56 pm
Ground wire for dual fuel kitchen stove	October 26, 2006, 1:40 am
Bathroom: architect versus contractor? which contractor?	March 4, 2007, 9:09 am
Subfloor Nailing	February 23, 2006, 12:52 am
U brackets, nailing	May 28, 2009, 8:51 pm

Contractor hit a wire while nailing up moulding in kitchen - Page 2