Home Page link

Custom wood door frame

Home| Search | About
Login Password
Register Now! Lost Password?

Home Repair - - If it ain't broken, don't fix it. Otherwise look here. 

Bookmark this page:  YahooMyWeb Yahoo!  Google Google  Windows Live Favorites Windows Live  del.icio.us del.icio.us  digg digg  Add to Netscape Netscape
Subject Author Date
Custom wood door frame nmbexcuse 10-01-2008
If you were  Registered and logged in, you could reply and use other advanced thread options
Posted by on October 1, 2008, 4:33 pm


I have an exterior door, well actually it's not an exterior door that
opens to the interior, but an exterior door that opens into a
courtyard, so basically it's exposed to the weather on both sides.

It is a custom wood door, odd size. It is difficult to replace
because it has a lot of accessories on it. It has a built in mail
slot with a mail box attached to the inside. It has custom hinges
with pins to avoid the doors being removed by simply unhinging the
hinges. It also has brackets on the top and bottom to fit two slabs
of 2x6 lumber for hurricane braces, and it has the top and bottom
spring loaded rods to attach the door to the floor and top frame, plus
several mortise locks. Bottom line is it will be very difficult and
expensive to replace and rebuild it.

The problem is the bottom of this door is too long, it can open half
way and it will be stucked due to the uneveness of the mexican tiled
floor. I attempted to remove the door and cut it shorter and attach a
metal door bottom (something like this
http://www.thehardwarehut.com/catalog-product.php?p_ref=25543).

However I just noticed due to the door bottom having direct contact
with the floor for 36 years, the bottom of that door is basically
rotted a bit - it's mushy.

I think the least expensive approach is for me to remove the bottom
part of the wood door frame, and replace it. However, I cannot find
suitable lumber. The door is 1-3/4" thick, which is thicker than the
typical 2x4s. Is there any source for lumber with "standard door
thickness"?

Thanks,

MC

PexSupply Save 10 468x60
Posted by charlie on October 1, 2008, 4:45 pm



>I have an exterior door, well actually it's not an exterior door that
> opens to the interior, but an exterior door that opens into a
> courtyard, so basically it's exposed to the weather on both sides.
>
> It is a custom wood door, odd size. It is difficult to replace
> because it has a lot of accessories on it. It has a built in mail
> slot with a mail box attached to the inside. It has custom hinges
> with pins to avoid the doors being removed by simply unhinging the
> hinges. It also has brackets on the top and bottom to fit two slabs
> of 2x6 lumber for hurricane braces, and it has the top and bottom
> spring loaded rods to attach the door to the floor and top frame, plus
> several mortise locks. Bottom line is it will be very difficult and
> expensive to replace and rebuild it.
>
> The problem is the bottom of this door is too long, it can open half
> way and it will be stucked due to the uneveness of the mexican tiled
> floor. I attempted to remove the door and cut it shorter and attach a
> metal door bottom (something like this
> http://www.thehardwarehut.com/catalog-product.php?p_ref=25543).
>
> However I just noticed due to the door bottom having direct contact
> with the floor for 36 years, the bottom of that door is basically
> rotted a bit - it's mushy.
>
> I think the least expensive approach is for me to remove the bottom
> part of the wood door frame, and replace it. However, I cannot find
> suitable lumber. The door is 1-3/4" thick, which is thicker than the
> typical 2x4s. Is there any source for lumber with "standard door
> thickness"?
>
> Thanks,
>
> MC

how much did you cut off and what tools do you have? you can turn a 2x4 on
it's side to get 3.5" thick, then rip that down with a table saw.



Posted by dpb on October 1, 2008, 4:45 pm


nmbexcuse@hotmail.com wrote:
> I have an exterior door, well actually it's not an exterior door that
> opens to the interior, but an exterior door that opens into a
> courtyard, so basically it's exposed to the weather on both sides.
...
> The problem is the bottom of this door is too long, it can open half
> way and it will be stucked due to the uneveness of the mexican tiled
> floor. I attempted to remove the door and cut it shorter and attach a
> metal door bottom ...
>
> However I just noticed due to the door bottom having direct contact
> with the floor for 36 years, the bottom of that door is basically
> rotted a bit - it's mushy.
>
> I think the least expensive approach is for me to remove the bottom
> part of the wood door frame, and replace it. However, I cannot find
> suitable lumber. The door is 1-3/4" thick, which is thicker than the
> typical 2x4s. Is there any source for lumber with "standard door
> thickness"?

I see no logical reason whatever for the weather seal in such an
application; definitely dump it.

Picture of the door and sill/frame would have been far more useful.

First, what is the wood used originally? Matching would be a good thing
(tm), more than likely.

In that area I'd guess cypress would have been a likely choice--you can
get lumber from hardwood/"real" lumber yards but not the Borgs.

If treated were acceptable for the appearance, you can always start w/ a
larger piece and cut it down, of course -- do you know what the actual
dimensions of the existing sill are?

I'd also look into treating the door w/ one of the rot stabilizing epoxy
products but a specific product/treatment would depend on more specific
information about the door than you've provided.

In the end, though, if the door is too long it should be trimmed so it
doesn't drag. As noted before, I can't imagine why there would be any
disadvantage to there being an inch or so gap at the bottom in that
application.

--
In that area you'll definitely

Posted by on October 1, 2008, 5:01 pm


> nmbexc...@hotmail.com wrote:
> > I have an exterior door, well actually it's not an exterior door that
> > opens to the interior, but an exterior door that opens into a
> > courtyard, so basically it's exposed to the weather on both sides.
> ...
> > The problem is the bottom of this door is too long, it can open half
> > way and it will be stucked due to the uneveness of the mexican tiled
> > floor. =A0I attempted to remove the door and cut it shorter and attach =
a
> > metal door bottom ...
>
> > However I just noticed due to the door bottom having direct contact
> > with the floor for 36 years, the bottom of that door is basically
> > rotted a bit - it's mushy.
>
> > I think the least expensive approach is for me to remove the bottom
> > part of the wood door frame, and replace it. =A0However, I cannot find
> > suitable lumber. =A0The door is 1-3/4" thick, which is thicker than the
> > typical 2x4s. =A0Is there any source for lumber with "standard door
> > thickness"?
>
> I see no logical reason whatever for the weather seal in such an
> application; definitely dump it.
>
> Picture of the door and sill/frame would have been far more useful.
>
> First, what is the wood used originally? =A0Matching would be a good thin=
g
> (tm), more than likely.
>
> In that area I'd guess cypress would have been a likely choice--you can
> get lumber from hardwood/"real" lumber yards but not the Borgs.
>
> If treated were acceptable for the appearance, you can always start w/ a
> larger piece and cut it down, of course -- do you know what the actual
> dimensions of the existing sill are?
>
> I'd also look into treating the door w/ one of the rot stabilizing epoxy
> products but a specific product/treatment would depend on more specific
> information about the door than you've provided.
>
> In the end, though, if the door is too long it should be trimmed so it
> doesn't drag. =A0As noted before, I can't imagine why there would be any
> disadvantage to there being an inch or so gap at the bottom in that
> application.
>
> --
> In that area you'll definitely

I need to have some sort of a weather strip because the entire
courtyard is screened in so no mosquitoes and no-see-ums will not come
through. Yes, otherwise I could live with the gap.

Door is painted so finish is not a problem I will have to repaint the
entire door anyways.

Thanks,

MC

Posted by dpb on October 1, 2008, 5:04 pm


nmbexcuse@hotmail.com wrote:
...
> I need to have some sort of a weather strip because the entire
> courtyard is screened in ...

Does (or would it ok if?) the door only opened inward?

If so, I'd make the barrier a hanging one I think on the inside rather
than the mating strip that can't help but get wet (and stay wet a long
time) in that climate.

--

Similar ThreadsPosted
build custom wood window May 28, 2006, 11:07 am
custom storm door January 14, 2006, 3:53 pm
Custom storm door December 10, 2006, 4:21 pm
Is it difficult to install such an accordion door in a door frame? August 24, 2008, 11:18 pm
Install room a/c in a wood frame wall??? July 5, 2005, 10:49 am
What to use to set marble ledge to wood window frame? March 26, 2008, 12:49 pm
Replacing Door Frame + Door February 13, 2005, 10:35 pm
How do I frame this door opening? February 17, 2006, 1:26 pm
Can I make a used door fit my frame? August 19, 2008, 12:57 pm
Storm door window frame March 2, 2006, 6:34 pm

Contact Us | Privacy Policy

XML SitemapXML Sitemap