If you were Registered and logged in, you could reply and use other advanced thread options
|
Posted by Edwin Pawlowski on September 25, 2006, 2:22 pm
>
> Its not cracked, and I tossed out the idea of cutting it up, because
> one thought I had was to start taking out maybe a foot wide cross
> section at a time, and get a look at where the root(s) are, so that
> perhaps I might not have to take out the entire slab, but I approached
> it as if I would have to, just to see what I might be getting into....
I've heard of slab being raised up to level if they are sinking. Perhaps you
can cut out some of the slab and have a pro do the rest somehow. It may not
be any cheaper, but if the labor is cut 80% that would be a good incentive.
|
|
Posted by nowforsale on September 25, 2006, 11:06 pm
>
> ephedralover@hotmail.com wrote:
>> singlewchildren@gmail.com wrote:
>
>> One Q, why are you replacing this panel?
>
> Well, the truth is that I didn't get into details because I didn't
> think I would get so much useful advice :-) Probably more info would
> have helped, in retrospect....
>
> The problem is a tree root that has lifted the slab. Its a two car
> drive/garage. Been watching it rise up for several years now, and it
> has finally gotten to be ridiculous, sticking up on one corner just
> about three inches. The slab next to it has sunk a bit, not much, and
> risen up at the entrance to the garage. Once I take out the root(s) I
> can cut down the bump on the far side slab and that will be fine with
> me, but the slab closer to the tree has to go :(
>
> Its not cracked, and I tossed out the idea of cutting it up, because
> one thought I had was to start taking out maybe a foot wide cross
> section at a time, and get a look at where the root(s) are, so that
> perhaps I might not have to take out the entire slab, but I approached
> it as if I would have to, just to see what I might be getting into....
>
>
> Bummer to not be able to lift the slab and excavate the roots :-)
>
> Mostly, I am wanting to learn the best way to do this in advance,
> because I will have to wait till late fall, or early spring to chop out
> whatever root(s) I find beneath the slab, after the tree goes dormant.
> Two huge trees, so I imagine the root(s) beneath will be pretty hefty
> to be pushing up such a chunk of concrete...... Its really only coming
> up in one corner, but unfortunately, its the corner the ends up in the
> middle of the driveway, made up of four slabs, so it looks real bad as
> the other three are pretty much okay. I assume that if I can take out
> the root(s) from this one, it will buy me some time before the other
> slabs get messed up too.
>
> Not quite sure when and how yet, but I am much better off now, than a
> was a week ago, not knowing much of anything as to how to proceed.
>
> Thanks a lot,
>
> Mark
Roots near the surface are stability roots. If you remove the roots and want
to prebvent them from growing back into that area, Biobarrier works great,
and should stop root growth for at least 35 years, here's a link:
http://www.biobarrier.com/
A barrier like this is the only thing I've found to allow roots and concrete
to peacefully co-exist over time. You generally have to buy Biobarrier from
a distributor, not direct from the company. Maybe a distributor would have a
small length to sell, or be able to recommend someone who purchased some and
has some left over. I've heard of other methods of stopping root growth,
like salting the ground, but those methods don't seem effective.
Sound like you might be on to something as to only cutting out the raised
portion of slab and removing the roots; would be unique if you could
surgically cut out a section or sections, remove the root(s), then replane
the ground level and put the removed sections back in place and fill in the
cracks with sand up to about 1" shy of the surface, then use Quickrete Crack
Sealer or Quickrete concrete resurfacer (basically concrete with plastic
additives) to fill in the top 1". Might just work. Also, to make it more
stable, you might be able to drill some countersunk vertical holes into the
removed and nonremoved portions, then use u-shaped pieces of rebar epoxied
into the holes to rejoin the removed and nonremoved pieces, then fill in
cracks around the removed pieces with sand up to about 1" shy of the
surface, and fill in the last 1" with something like Quickrete Crack Filler
or Quickrete Concrete Resurfacer.
|
|
Posted by nowforsale on September 25, 2006, 11:09 pm
> Roots near the surface are stability roots. If you remove the roots and
> want to prebvent them from growing back into that area, Biobarrier works
> great, and should stop root growth for at least 35 years, here's a link:
> http://www.biobarrier.com/
>
> A barrier like this is the only thing I've found to allow roots and
> concrete to peacefully co-exist over time. You generally have to buy
> Biobarrier from a distributor, not direct from the company. Maybe a
> distributor would have a small length to sell, or be able to recommend
> someone who purchased some and has some left over. I've heard of other
> methods of stopping root growth, like salting the ground, but those
> methods don't seem effective.
>
> Sound like you might be on to something as to only cutting out the raised
> portion of slab and removing the roots; would be unique if you could
> surgically cut out a section or sections, remove the root(s), then replane
> the ground level and put the removed sections back in place and fill in
> the cracks with sand up to about 1" shy of the surface, then use Quickrete
> Crack Sealer or Quickrete concrete resurfacer (basically concrete with
> plastic additives) to fill in the top 1". Might just work. Also, to make
> it more stable, you might be able to drill some countersunk vertical
> holes into the removed and nonremoved portions, then use u-shaped pieces
> of rebar epoxied into the holes to rejoin the removed and nonremoved
> pieces, then fill in cracks around the removed pieces with sand up to
> about 1" shy of the surface, and fill in the last 1" with something like
> Quickrete Crack Filler or Quickrete Concrete Resurfacer.
This stuff would probably be better to fill the cracks than sand, crack
filler, or resurfacer:
http://www.sanitred.com/ConcreteRepair.htm?OVRAW=concrete%20products%20navasota&OVKEY=concrete%20product&OVMTC=advanced
|
|
Posted by on September 27, 2006, 7:22 pm
nowforsale wrote:
>
> Roots near the surface are stability roots.
I have planted just a ton of trees at all my homes, over the years, and
always, always, drip watered them for years and years, to drive the
roots down. I planted these trees, and kept the roots down by watering
them deep, and long, but a divorce, move out, win back the house, etc,
took three years, and she just used the lawn sprinklers for twenty
minutes a night during the drought, which resulted in giant roots at
the surface..... :-( Oh well, I am not big on fancy golf course lawns
and perfect yards anyway <g>
> to prebvent them from growing back into that area, Biobarrier works great,
> and should stop root growth for at least 35 years, here's a link:
> http://www.biobarrier.com/
There is a distributor just across town. Looks like good stuff, so
thanks, and I will be paying them a visit to see what they can do for
me.
> portion of slab and removing the roots; would be unique if you could
> surgically cut out a section or sections, remove the root(s), then replane
> the ground level and put the removed sections back in place and fill in the
> cracks with sand up to about 1" shy of the surface, then use Quickrete Crack
> Sealer or Quickrete concrete resurfacer (basically concrete with plastic
> additives) to fill in the top 1". Might just work.
I figure its worth a shot, and it if doesn't go that cleanly, I can
just get ugly with it. I do believe that I will be renting a concrete
saw, and doing it the easier way. FWIW, I found someone who will loan
me his diamond blade, and I am gonna take a shot at it with the skil
saw, just to see for myself what it would be like, but I admit that
since the blade is $30, and a new saw is twice that, might as well use
a concrete saw. That's the best chance of getting any useful pieces
that might find their way around the garden, etc....
Anyway, lots of great advice from so many. I surely do appreciate it,
and figure that once its done, I will pass on what happened for the
next guy to find, when its his turn to cope with this kind of issue :-)
Much obliged to everyone.
Thanks,
Mark
|
|
Posted by on September 27, 2006, 7:22 pm
nowforsale wrote:
>
> Roots near the surface are stability roots.
I have planted just a ton of trees at all my homes, over the years, and
always, always, drip watered them for years and years, to drive the
roots down. I planted these trees, and kept the roots down by watering
them deep, and long, but a divorce, move out, win back the house, etc,
took three years, and she just used the lawn sprinklers for twenty
minutes a night during the drought, which resulted in giant roots at
the surface..... :-( Oh well, I am not big on fancy golf course lawns
and perfect yards anyway <g>
> to prebvent them from growing back into that area, Biobarrier works great,
> and should stop root growth for at least 35 years, here's a link:
> http://www.biobarrier.com/
There is a distributor just across town. Looks like good stuff, so
thanks, and I will be paying them a visit to see what they can do for
me.
> portion of slab and removing the roots; would be unique if you could
> surgically cut out a section or sections, remove the root(s), then replane
> the ground level and put the removed sections back in place and fill in the
> cracks with sand up to about 1" shy of the surface, then use Quickrete Crack
> Sealer or Quickrete concrete resurfacer (basically concrete with plastic
> additives) to fill in the top 1". Might just work.
I figure its worth a shot, and it if doesn't go that cleanly, I can
just get ugly with it. I do believe that I will be renting a concrete
saw, and doing it the easier way. FWIW, I found someone who will loan
me his diamond blade, and I am gonna take a shot at it with the skil
saw, just to see for myself what it would be like, but I admit that
since the blade is $30, and a new saw is twice that, might as well use
a concrete saw. That's the best chance of getting any useful pieces
that might find their way around the garden, etc....
Anyway, lots of great advice from so many. I surely do appreciate it,
and figure that once its done, I will pass on what happened for the
next guy to find, when its his turn to cope with this kind of issue :-)
Much obliged to everyone.
Thanks,
Mark
|
Page 4 of 4 << first < 1 2 3
| Similar Threads | Posted | | Cutting Concrete? | September 23, 2006, 10:48 pm |
| Cutting concrete | June 11, 2007, 11:44 pm |
| Cutting Concrete | August 6, 2007, 1:01 am |
| Cutting Concrete | May 27, 2008, 3:58 pm |
| Cutting concrete block | November 27, 2006, 8:54 am |
| Concrete Cutting: The Unknown Niche | December 30, 2007, 11:24 am |
| Cutting Concrete blocks for wall | February 25, 2008, 12:56 am |
| Cutting Concrete crub to allow yard to drain | April 5, 2008, 8:53 pm |
| Cutting sump pump hole in concrete floor. | September 11, 2006, 3:12 pm |
| Cutting Electrical PVC (WITHOUT CUTTING WIRES) | November 29, 2005, 12:15 am |
|
|
Yahoo! 
Google 
Windows Live 
del.icio.us 
digg 
Netscape 
XML Sitemap