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Cutting Countertop. Red Green 11-13-2008
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Posted by Red Green on November 13, 2008, 7:51 pm
I've pulled and replaced countertop (same piece) several times. This time I
think I need to replace some. Just going to use some 9/10 ft store stock
stuff.

Question is in regard to cutting to length. All cuts are 90 degrees. Borg
does not cut lengths.

I have the reg electric power tool assortment including lame old clunker
circular (), another old clunker jig, 10" table Craftsman junker & new
kick-ass Hitachi 12" compound miter saws as well as a router. Probably need
to get some specific bit(s) and/or blades.

Of course I spoke on the phone with an Orange Borg guy in kitchens. Sounded
pretty confident as to recommendations but then again rats are pretty
confidient on running a maze. Have no idea if Borg guy has actually run the
maze.

I'm sure I'll get several methods as a reply and may take a combo of them
for what I decide to do but lets hear it please.

Posted by DanG on November 13, 2008, 7:58 pm
The best approach is to turn the counter top upside down on saw
horses. Protect the contact points with a rag or similar. Draw
your cut line on the bottom of the top and the back of the
backsplash. Corners are selfdom square, so check and mark
accordingly. If you are very good with a circular saw, have at.
If not, bolt/screw/double stick tape a straightedge tot eh top to
run the saw against (be very careful about going through the
finish top). Make your cut, install.

--
______________________________
Keep the whole world singing . . . .
DanG (remove the sevens)
dgriff237@7cox.net



> I've pulled and replaced countertop (same piece) several times.
> This time I
> think I need to replace some. Just going to use some 9/10 ft
> store stock
> stuff.
>
> Question is in regard to cutting to length. All cuts are 90
> degrees. Borg
> does not cut lengths.
>
> I have the reg electric power tool assortment including lame old
> clunker
> circular (), another old clunker jig, 10" table Craftsman junker
> & new
> kick-ass Hitachi 12" compound miter saws as well as a router.
> Probably need
> to get some specific bit(s) and/or blades.
>
> Of course I spoke on the phone with an Orange Borg guy in
> kitchens. Sounded
> pretty confident as to recommendations but then again rats are
> pretty
> confidient on running a maze. Have no idea if Borg guy has
> actually run the
> maze.
>
> I'm sure I'll get several methods as a reply and may take a
> combo of them
> for what I decide to do but lets hear it please.



Posted by Colbyt on November 13, 2008, 8:02 pm

> I've pulled and replaced countertop (same piece) several times. This time
> I
> think I need to replace some. Just going to use some 9/10 ft store stock
> stuff.
>
> Question is in regard to cutting to length. All cuts are 90 degrees. Borg
> does not cut lengths.
>
> I have the reg electric power tool assortment including lame old clunker
> circular (), another old clunker jig, 10" table Craftsman junker & new
> kick-ass Hitachi 12" compound miter saws as well as a router. Probably
> need
> to get some specific bit(s) and/or blades.
>
> Of course I spoke on the phone with an Orange Borg guy in kitchens.
> Sounded
> pretty confident as to recommendations but then again rats are pretty
> confidient on running a maze. Have no idea if Borg guy has actually run
> the
> maze.
>
> I'm sure I'll get several methods as a reply and may take a combo of them
> for what I decide to do but lets hear it please.


90 degree cuts are best made with a circular saw equipped with a fine kerf,
high tooth count carbide blade.

Always cut from the backside. I usually draw the line and cut the back
splash first. Then cut from the splash to the post formed lip raising saw
slightly when getting to the lip. Very little chipping occurs with this
method and caulk hides what does.

Supporting both sides is important while making the cut.

Colbyt



Posted by Red Green on November 13, 2008, 8:48 pm

>
>> I've pulled and replaced countertop (same piece) several times. This
>> time I
>> think I need to replace some. Just going to use some 9/10 ft store
>> stock stuff.
>>
>> Question is in regard to cutting to length. All cuts are 90 degrees.
>> Borg does not cut lengths.
>>
>> I have the reg electric power tool assortment including lame old
>> clunker circular (), another old clunker jig, 10" table Craftsman
>> junker & new kick-ass Hitachi 12" compound miter saws as well as a
>> router. Probably need
>> to get some specific bit(s) and/or blades.
>>
>> Of course I spoke on the phone with an Orange Borg guy in kitchens.
>> Sounded
>> pretty confident as to recommendations but then again rats are pretty
>> confidient on running a maze. Have no idea if Borg guy has actually
>> run the
>> maze.
>>
>> I'm sure I'll get several methods as a reply and may take a combo of
>> them for what I decide to do but lets hear it please.
>
>
> 90 degree cuts are best made with a circular saw equipped with a fine
> kerf, high tooth count carbide blade.
>
> Always cut from the backside. I usually draw the line and cut the
> back splash first. Then cut from the splash to the post formed lip
> raising saw slightly when getting to the lip. Very little chipping
> occurs with this method and caulk hides what does.
>
> Supporting both sides is important while making the cut.
>
> Colbyt
>
>

Cutting from the backside makes sense. Just like cutting shelving. Blade
rotation at cut is up. Finished edge at cut is supported my material.
Severely reduces chipping "out" I guess you might call it. Then there's
the additional taping sometimes recommended.

Posted by hr(bob) hofmann@att.net on November 13, 2008, 9:06 pm
2dnUVZ_tTinZ2d@insightbb.com:
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> >> I've pulled and replaced countertop (same piece) several times. This
> >> time I
> >> think I need to replace some. Just going to use some 9/10 ft store
> >> stock stuff.
>
> >> Question is in regard to cutting to length. All cuts are 90 degrees.
> >> Borg does not cut lengths.
>
> >> I have the reg electric power tool assortment including lame old
> >> clunker circular (), another old clunker jig, 10" table Craftsman
> >> junker & new kick-ass Hitachi 12" compound miter saws as well as a
> >> router. Probably need
> >> to get some specific bit(s) and/or blades.
>
> >> Of course I spoke on the phone with an Orange Borg guy in kitchens.
> >> Sounded
> >> pretty confident as to recommendations but then again rats are pretty
> >> confidient on running a maze. Have no idea if Borg guy has actually
> >> run the
> >> maze.
>
> >> I'm sure I'll get several methods as a reply and may take a combo of
> >> them for what I decide to do but lets hear it please.
>
> > 90 degree cuts are best made with a circular saw equipped with a fine
> > kerf, high tooth count carbide blade.
>
> > Always cut from the backside. =A0I usually draw the line and cut the
> > back splash first. =A0Then cut from the splash to the post formed lip
> > raising saw slightly when getting to the lip. =A0Very little chipping
> > occurs with this method and caulk hides what does.
>
> > Supporting both sides is important while making the cut.
>
> > Colbyt
>
> Cutting from the backside makes sense. Just like cutting shelving. Blade
> rotation at cut is up. Finished edge at cut is supported my material.
> Severely reduces chipping "out" I guess you might call it. Then there's
> the additional taping sometimes recommended.- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -

A layer of heavy masking tape centered on the cut line on the finished
side is what my neighbor carpenter always recommends to reduce
chipping. Double check that you really want 90 degrees on the edge
that goes in the corner. us a decent sized square, and double-check
by checking the old countertop, assuming that it fit perfectly.

Bob Hofmann

Page 1 of 3       1 2 3 > last >>
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