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Posted by mm on August 11, 2008, 12:10 pm
A 16" diameter tree fell across a stream and a neighbor doesn't like
it because leaves, sticks, etc. and some plastic bottles, like retail
water bottles, and other soft plastic and a few aluminimum cans pile
up behind the log, and she says it smells some times.
1) Specifically, if I cut it into 4 sections, one of the cuts would be
where the trash is piled up, above the water line. Is it necessary
to get that stuff out of there before cutting? (IIRC the major reason
for not cutting a log on the ground was dulling the blade and the saw
being pulled out of your hands, neither of which would apply here.)
2) The tree is about 16 inches in diameter towards the roots, maybe 14
inches at the other end 14 feet away. Is it better to rent an 18"
saw, which will be heavier and harder to handle, or better to rent a
10" saw which will require two cuts for each cut but will be much
easier to handle.
What happens if the chain end of the saw dips into the water while
running? Do I just put more oil on the chain and keep going?
Any warnings about using a gas chain saw while standing in the stream?
The log itself is not in the stream, but although I think I can avoid
it, it might be after the first or second cut.
I have an electric chain saw that would probably do this, but no way
am I going in the stream with that thing, no matter how double
insulated it is.
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Posted by Special Ed on August 11, 2008, 12:20 pm
>A 16" diameter tree fell across a stream and a neighbor doesn't like
> it because leaves, sticks, etc. and some plastic bottles, like retail
> water bottles, and other soft plastic and a few aluminimum cans pile
> up behind the log, and she says it smells some times.
>
> 1) Specifically, if I cut it into 4 sections, one of the cuts would be
> where the trash is piled up, above the water line. Is it necessary
> to get that stuff out of there before cutting? (IIRC the major reason
> for not cutting a log on the ground was dulling the blade and the saw
> being pulled out of your hands, neither of which would apply here.)
>
> 2) The tree is about 16 inches in diameter towards the roots, maybe 14
> inches at the other end 14 feet away. Is it better to rent an 18"
> saw, which will be heavier and harder to handle, or better to rent a
> 10" saw which will require two cuts for each cut but will be much
> easier to handle.
>
> What happens if the chain end of the saw dips into the water while
> running? Do I just put more oil on the chain and keep going?
>
> Any warnings about using a gas chain saw while standing in the stream?
>
> The log itself is not in the stream, but although I think I can avoid
> it, it might be after the first or second cut.
>
>
> I have an electric chain saw that would probably do this, but no way
> am I going in the stream with that thing, no matter how double
> insulated it is.
>
Since you will be using a rental saw, why are you so worried if you dull the
chain? They'll quick-sharpen it back up when you return it.
As to size, any chain saw with a 10" blade probably says Mattel on the side-
so go with a big one that has an engine to match.
From the overall tone of your post, are you sure you have the skill to
tackle this project? If you got to the local Mickey D's around 11:15 AM and
asked the first Mexican landscape crew that pulled in if they want to make a
fast $50, they'd do it for you in a heartbeat-- especially if you sprung for
a couple of Big Macs and fries...
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Posted by mm on August 11, 2008, 10:55 pm
wrote:
>
>> 1) Specifically, if I cut it into 4 sections, one of the cuts would be
>> where the trash is piled up, above the water line. Is it necessary
>> to get that stuff out of there before cutting? (IIRC the major reason
>> for not cutting a log on the ground was dulling the blade and the saw
>> being pulled out of your hands, neither of which would apply here.)
>>>
>
>Since you will be using a rental saw, why are you so worried if you dull the
>chain?
I don't treat rental tools worse than I would treat my own.
> They'll quick-sharpen it back up when you return it.
But if that's the case, that they'll sharpen it anyhow, it's much less
of a consideration, maybe not at all.
>As to size, any chain saw with a 10" blade probably says Mattel on the side-
>so go with a big one that has an engine to match.
My 8" electric does real well on 6 to 8" logs.
>
>From the overall tone of your post, are you sure you have the skill to
>tackle this project? If you got to the local Mickey D's around 11:15 AM and
>asked the first Mexican landscape crew that pulled in if they want to make a
>fast $50, they'd do it for you in a heartbeat-- especially if you sprung for
>a couple of Big Macs and fries...
>
Thanks for the advice, and to all of you, whether you encouraged me or
discouraged me.
It's complicated, and not really a home.repair topic. But still, I'll
explain. There is little need for me to do this, and after the
discouragement, probably I won't. The log and the problem are not
mine but a neighbor's, possibly the daughter or girlfriend the
"architecture" chairman, and doing a favor for her might be
appreciated (Plus I'd get to rent a chain saw.)
Plus, the plan they have now is to come in with some sort of vehicle
(or big machine?) from 600 feet further down the stream, past my
house, and I don't want them messing up the parts of the stream that
goes by and near my house. Fortunately for me, the property owner 600
feet down has refused to let them enter. The new idea is that he has
to let them because we have iirc an easement of necessity. Whether we
do or not, whether they pursue that or not, I think it's stupid.
If I can't do it, someone else can easily carry a chain saw down a
tinye hill through 10 feet of brush, across 10 feet of stream less
than a foot deep when it's not raining, and cut the tree into pieces.
Or come in from the other side which is 40 feet but with no thick
brush. The spot is very accessible. What crackpot plan requires
them to go in from 600 feet downstream, I'm afraid to ask.
(Because if I ask and if it's as stupid as it must be, I don't think
I'll be able to keep from saying, That's so stupid.)
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Posted by on August 11, 2008, 2:12 pm
wrote:
>What happens if the chain end of the saw dips into the water while
>running? Do I just put more oil on the chain and keep going?
>
>Any warnings about using a gas chain saw while standing in the stream?
I volunteer with the state park folks sometimes. They chain saw logs
in salt water all the time. The only thing they do is try to keep the
engine part as dry as possible and hose the whole thing down well with
WD40, then re oil when they are done.
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Posted by Don Phillipson on August 11, 2008, 6:08 pm
> A 16" diameter tree fell across a stream and a neighbor doesn't like
> it because leaves, sticks, etc. and some plastic bottles, like retail
> water bottles, and other soft plastic and a few aluminimum cans pile
> up behind the log, and she says it smells some times.
>
> 1) Specifically, if I cut it into 4 sections, one of the cuts would be
> where the trash is piled up, above the water line. Is it necessary
> to get that stuff out of there before cutting? (IIRC the major reason
> for not cutting a log on the ground was dulling the blade and the saw
> being pulled out of your hands, neither of which would apply here.)
>
> 2) The tree is about 16 inches in diameter towards the roots, maybe 14
> inches at the other end 14 feet away. Is it better to rent an 18"
> saw, which will be heavier and harder to handle, or better to rent a
> 10" saw which will require two cuts for each cut but will be much
> easier to handle.
>
> What happens if the chain end of the saw dips into the water while
> running? Do I just put more oil on the chain and keep going?
>
> Any warnings about using a gas chain saw while standing in the stream?
>
> The log itself is not in the stream, but although I think I can avoid
> it, it might be after the first or second cut.
>
> I have an electric chain saw that would probably do this, but no way
> am I going in the stream with that thing, no matter how double
> insulated it is.
To do this work, get a partner with a peavey or at least
a crowbar. You would be endangered if the chainsaw blade
jammed in any cut, likely when either gravity or moisture
affects what you are cutting. You need to plan each cut
carefully, so that the changing gravity makes the groove
open rather than close (making the cutting much easier
too) and you can often lever the uncut log so that gravity
works for you, not against you.
--
Don Phillipson
Carlsbad Springs
(Ottawa, Canada)
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