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Cutting an asbestos sheet? Terry 08-03-2005
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Posted by PipeDown on August 3, 2005, 5:29 pm



> Knowing that Asbestos now banned in many jurisdictions.
>
> I need to put a heat shield above my wood stove flue because where it
> enters the masonry it is only 14 inches below the floor joists above, not
> the required 18 inches. Shield will be fastened to and spaced about one
> inch below the ceiling joists meeting Fire Dept. inspection and insurance
> requirements.
>
> Happen to have a suitable piece quarter inch asbestos sheet which needs
> trimming. The cutting length will be about 30 inches. Also will drill four
> or six holes. Probably do this by hand rather than power tools to avoid
> cracking the sheet and/or blowing dust around.
>
> Intend to cut outside with asbestos soaking wet, wearing a mask. And will
> carefully wipe up and bury any wet dust/residue underground under trees.
>
> Any comments on this please.
>
> Or maybe should I just fashion a piece of sheet metal for a heat shield?
>
> Later if/when I 'finish' the existing vertical poured concrete wall behind
> the wood stove, a similar spacing situation will occur and a heat shield
> may be required behind the burning unit itself.
>
>
why wouild you install a health hazard which you need to disclose in writing
to the next buyer (who will want you to remove it anyway) when you can just
go to HD and buy a sheet of cement backer board for <$10. If you have the
tools to fashon sheet metal then I think that is a no-brainer.

Really, would you use a can of old Lead paint if you had one?

You should paint the asbestos board, put it in a plastic bag, label it and
bring it to the dump on household haz mat day (if you have one) before you
are tempted to use it again.




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Posted by HeyBub on August 3, 2005, 4:03 pm


PipeDown wrote:

> why wouild you install a health hazard which you need to disclose in
> writing to the next buyer (who will want you to remove it anyway)
> when you can just go to HD and buy a sheet of cement backer board for
> <$10. If you have the tools to fashon sheet metal then I think that
> is a no-brainer.

1. Because asbestos is not a health hazard, and
2. He's got it on hand, and
3. He wants to prevent a fire.

You are correct, though. Hysteria over asbestos is characteristic of those
whose brains are merely painted on.

>
> Really, would you use a can of old Lead paint if you had one?

Sure. Why not? Lead paint is hazardous only to toddlers who bite it. It is
unlikely, for instance, for a toddler to be found gnawing on a gutter.

>
> You should paint the asbestos board, put it in a plastic bag, label
> it and bring it to the dump on household haz mat day (if you have
> one) before you are tempted to use it again.

If you just want to be rid of it, you could leave it in a school yard the
next dark night.




Posted by PipeDown on August 3, 2005, 9:54 pm



> PipeDown wrote:
>
>> why wouild you install a health hazard which you need to disclose in
>> writing to the next buyer (who will want you to remove it anyway)
>> when you can just go to HD and buy a sheet of cement backer board for
>> <$10. If you have the tools to fashon sheet metal then I think that
>> is a no-brainer.
>
> 1. Because asbestos is not a health hazard, and
> 2. He's got it on hand, and
> 3. He wants to prevent a fire.
>
> You are correct, though. Hysteria over asbestos is characteristic of those
> whose brains are merely painted on.
>
>>
>> Really, would you use a can of old Lead paint if you had one?
>
> Sure. Why not? Lead paint is hazardous only to toddlers who bite it. It is
> unlikely, for instance, for a toddler to be found gnawing on a gutter.
>
>>
>> You should paint the asbestos board, put it in a plastic bag, label
>> it and bring it to the dump on household haz mat day (if you have
>> one) before you are tempted to use it again.
>
> If you just want to be rid of it, you could leave it in a school yard the
> next dark night.
>

Well, there is always one in every crowd who does whatever the hell they
want without regard for anyone who might come along after them because they
are too lazy or too cheap to do it the right way.

(Normally, I ignore trolls like this one but its a slow work day today)




Posted by George E. Cawthon on August 4, 2005, 12:02 am


PipeDown wrote:
>
>>Knowing that Asbestos now banned in many jurisdictions.
>>
>>I need to put a heat shield above my wood stove flue because where it
>>enters the masonry it is only 14 inches below the floor joists above, not
>>the required 18 inches. Shield will be fastened to and spaced about one
>>inch below the ceiling joists meeting Fire Dept. inspection and insurance
>>requirements.
>>
>>Happen to have a suitable piece quarter inch asbestos sheet which needs
>>trimming. The cutting length will be about 30 inches. Also will drill four
>>or six holes. Probably do this by hand rather than power tools to avoid
>>cracking the sheet and/or blowing dust around.
>>
>>Intend to cut outside with asbestos soaking wet, wearing a mask. And will
>>carefully wipe up and bury any wet dust/residue underground under trees.
>>
>>Any comments on this please.
>>
>>Or maybe should I just fashion a piece of sheet metal for a heat shield?
>>
>>Later if/when I 'finish' the existing vertical poured concrete wall behind
>>the wood stove, a similar spacing situation will occur and a heat shield
>>may be required behind the burning unit itself.
>>
>>
>
> why wouild you install a health hazard which you need to disclose in writing
> to the next buyer (who will want you to remove it anyway) when you can just
> go to HD and buy a sheet of cement backer board for <$10. If you have the
> tools to fashon sheet metal then I think that is a no-brainer.
>
> Really, would you use a can of old Lead paint if you had one?
>
> You should paint the asbestos board, put it in a plastic bag, label it and
> bring it to the dump on household haz mat day (if you have one) before you
> are tempted to use it again.
>
>

I agree with your first part and there are
alternatives to asbestos. If I were the OP, I
would go ahead and do the asbestos and install it
and have it inspected. I would use hand tools
outside, but that is the only precaution.

After the inspection, I would remove it and
install a sheet of thin aluminum as a shield held
2-3 inches above the horizontal pipe. It should
be slightly curved and can be held on the pipe
with thin aluminum struts. That will provide
much more safety than the asbestos sheet. The
asbestos sheet will get hot and will transfer heat
to the ceiling structure. The shield will not
transfer heat directly to the ceiling and the
radiant heating will be very small. In fact, the
temperature of the ceiling will probably only rise
4-5 degrees above the rest of the ceiling.

Ask me how I know. Because I have tested thin
aluminum shields. The approved ceramic barrier
behind my stove would get very hot, but
interposing a sheet of aluminum between the stove
and the ceramic barrier resulted in the barrier
temperature rising insignificantly more than the
air temperature in the room.


Posted by Ulysses on August 4, 2005, 3:09 pm



> PipeDown wrote:
> >
> >>Knowing that Asbestos now banned in many jurisdictions.
> >>
> >>I need to put a heat shield above my wood stove flue because where it
> >>enters the masonry it is only 14 inches below the floor joists above,
not
> >>the required 18 inches. Shield will be fastened to and spaced about one
> >>inch below the ceiling joists meeting Fire Dept. inspection and
insurance
> >>requirements.
> >>
> >>Happen to have a suitable piece quarter inch asbestos sheet which needs
> >>trimming. The cutting length will be about 30 inches. Also will drill
four
> >>or six holes. Probably do this by hand rather than power tools to avoid
> >>cracking the sheet and/or blowing dust around.
> >>
> >>Intend to cut outside with asbestos soaking wet, wearing a mask. And
will
> >>carefully wipe up and bury any wet dust/residue underground under trees.
> >>
> >>Any comments on this please.
> >>
> >>Or maybe should I just fashion a piece of sheet metal for a heat shield?
> >>
> >>Later if/when I 'finish' the existing vertical poured concrete wall
behind
> >>the wood stove, a similar spacing situation will occur and a heat shield
> >>may be required behind the burning unit itself.
> >>
> >>
> >
> > why wouild you install a health hazard which you need to disclose in
writing
> > to the next buyer (who will want you to remove it anyway) when you can
just
> > go to HD and buy a sheet of cement backer board for <$10. If you have
the
> > tools to fashon sheet metal then I think that is a no-brainer.
> >
> > Really, would you use a can of old Lead paint if you had one?
> >
> > You should paint the asbestos board, put it in a plastic bag, label it
and
> > bring it to the dump on household haz mat day (if you have one) before
you
> > are tempted to use it again.
> >
> >
>
> I agree with your first part and there are
> alternatives to asbestos. If I were the OP, I
> would go ahead and do the asbestos and install it
> and have it inspected. I would use hand tools
> outside, but that is the only precaution.
>
> After the inspection, I would remove it and
> install a sheet of thin aluminum as a shield held
> 2-3 inches above the horizontal pipe. It should
> be slightly curved and can be held on the pipe
> with thin aluminum struts. That will provide
> much more safety than the asbestos sheet. The
> asbestos sheet will get hot and will transfer heat
> to the ceiling structure.

My experience with asbestos is that it does not transfer heat. Aside from
being virtually impenetrable to flames this is one of the reasons is was
such a wonder material.

The shield will not
> transfer heat directly to the ceiling and the
> radiant heating will be very small. In fact, the
> temperature of the ceiling will probably only rise
> 4-5 degrees above the rest of the ceiling.
>
> Ask me how I know. Because I have tested thin
> aluminum shields. The approved ceramic barrier
> behind my stove would get very hot, but
> interposing a sheet of aluminum between the stove
> and the ceramic barrier resulted in the barrier
> temperature rising insignificantly more than the
> air temperature in the room.




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