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Cutting an asbestos sheet? Terry 08-03-2005
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Posted by George E. Cawthon on August 5, 2005, 12:52 am


Ulysses wrote:
((snipped))
>>After the inspection, I would remove it and
>>install a sheet of thin aluminum as a shield held
>> 2-3 inches above the horizontal pipe. It should
>>be slightly curved and can be held on the pipe
>>with thin aluminum struts. That will provide
>>much more safety than the asbestos sheet. The
>>asbestos sheet will get hot and will transfer heat
>>to the ceiling structure.
>
>
> My experience with asbestos is that it does not transfer heat. Aside from
> being virtually impenetrable to flames this is one of the reasons is was
> such a wonder material.
>
> The shield will not
>
Asbestos doesn't burn and it does have insulating
properties, but it does transmit heat.

Let's see, the ceiling is directly over the pipe
which could be 300 to 500 degrees and radiating
heat like mad. When that radiated heat strikes
the asbestos sheet what happens. Some is
reflected some is absorbed some is reradiated.
This is a continuous process for hours, not short
term. The sheet will reach a specific temperature
and the back of the sheet against the ceiling will
be that temperature, which may be high enough to
damage the wood structure. It is nice that
asbestos doesn't burn but it won't stop wood
charing and damage on the back side if the front
side is heated high enough for a long enough time.


PexSupply QuikTrak 468x60
Posted by Stormin Mormon on August 4, 2005, 12:24 am


Asbestos is only dangerous if you work with it for several years. Or if you
get a mega dose. That stress you're experiencing (worrying about it) is
worse than the asbestos. I've worked with it (brakes) a bunch of times, and
I'm ferpektly nermal.

--

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
www.mormons.com


Knowing that Asbestos now banned in many jurisdictions.

I need to put a heat shield above my wood stove flue because where it
enters the masonry it is only 14 inches below the floor joists above, not
the required 18 inches. Shield will be fastened to and spaced about one inch
below the ceiling joists meeting Fire Dept. inspection and insurance
requirements.

Happen to have a suitable piece quarter inch asbestos sheet which needs
trimming. The cutting length will be about 30 inches. Also will drill four
or six holes. Probably do this by hand rather than power tools to avoid
cracking the sheet and/or blowing dust around.

Intend to cut outside with asbestos soaking wet, wearing a mask. And will
carefully wipe up and bury any wet dust/residue underground under trees.

Any comments on this please.

Or maybe should I just fashion a piece of sheet metal for a heat shield?

Later if/when I 'finish' the existing vertical poured concrete wall behind
the wood stove, a similar spacing situation will occur and a heat shield may
be required behind the burning unit itself.








Posted by kevin on August 3, 2005, 8:42 pm


Yeah, so what if asbestos is not _really_ that dangerous to consumers.
Our university buildings seem to have posted asbestos removal notices
basically non-stop, rotating from one building to another. They do all
this with just some basic precautions to keep the dust down, and just
keep employees or students from haning out in the work areas.

But yet, poster above had it right. It would be stupid to put asbestos
in, or lead paint. Go spend the $10 and get a cement board. Whe selling
the property, you have to disclose asbestos and lead paint. Those are
check marks against you, and you will pay for it -- either in lost
potential buyers (stupid ones, perhaps, but as a seller, you _want_
stupid buyers), or in the cost of removing it and replacing it as part
of the sale, or in just a lower price for the home.

-Kevin
(Oh, and about that lead paint nonsense posted above... paint has a
habit of flaking off, peeling, or just getting worn, which tends to end
up in the air, on window sills, on the grass and dirt around our
houses, etc. It's pretty clear that poster has no children that they
value, and doesn't know smack about their behavior. Got neighbors?
Visitors? Might you someday sell the house? Die? Children eat all sorts
of stuff. Noses 2'' from the ground and all, rolling around in lead
dust, getting on their hands and clothes, and yes, chewing on things we
try to teach them (patiently, over time) not to chew on.)



Posted by PipeDown on August 4, 2005, 8:21 pm



> Yeah, so what if asbestos is not _really_ that dangerous to consumers.
> Our university buildings seem to have posted asbestos removal notices
> basically non-stop, rotating from one building to another. They do all
> this with just some basic precautions to keep the dust down, and just
> keep employees or students from haning out in the work areas.
>
> But yet, poster above had it right. It would be stupid to put asbestos
> in, or lead paint. Go spend the $10 and get a cement board. Whe selling
> the property, you have to disclose asbestos and lead paint. Those are
> check marks against you, and you will pay for it -- either in lost
> potential buyers (stupid ones, perhaps, but as a seller, you _want_
> stupid buyers), or in the cost of removing it and replacing it as part
> of the sale, or in just a lower price for the home.
>
> -Kevin
> (Oh, and about that lead paint nonsense posted above... paint has a
> habit of flaking off, peeling, or just getting worn, which tends to end
> up in the air, on window sills, on the grass and dirt around our
> houses, etc. It's pretty clear that poster has no children that they
> value, and doesn't know smack about their behavior. Got neighbors?
> Visitors? Might you someday sell the house? Die? Children eat all sorts
> of stuff. Noses 2'' from the ground and all, rolling around in lead
> dust, getting on their hands and clothes, and yes, chewing on things we
> try to teach them (patiently, over time) not to chew on.)
>

Exactly, its not about the immediate health concerns to you but the
legalally required disclosures which will damage the value of your home.
It is easy to install asbestos and lead paint (safely) but it is exceedingly
expensive to get rid of it later when it does wear out.






Posted by Ulysses on August 4, 2005, 3:04 pm



> Knowing that Asbestos now banned in many jurisdictions.
>
> I need to put a heat shield above my wood stove flue because where it
> enters the masonry it is only 14 inches below the floor joists above, not
> the required 18 inches. Shield will be fastened to and spaced about one
inch
> below the ceiling joists meeting Fire Dept. inspection and insurance
> requirements.
>
> Happen to have a suitable piece quarter inch asbestos sheet which needs
> trimming. The cutting length will be about 30 inches. Also will drill four
> or six holes. Probably do this by hand rather than power tools to avoid
> cracking the sheet and/or blowing dust around.
>
> Intend to cut outside with asbestos soaking wet, wearing a mask. And will
> carefully wipe up and bury any wet dust/residue underground under trees.
>
> Any comments on this please.
>
> Or maybe should I just fashion a piece of sheet metal for a heat shield?
>
> Later if/when I 'finish' the existing vertical poured concrete wall behind
> the wood stove, a similar spacing situation will occur and a heat shield
may
> be required behind the burning unit itself.
>
>
>
Back when I was a kid and there were still dinosaurs running around we used
a foot-operated chopping cutter to cut asbestos sheets. There's a name for
the type of machine but I can't seem to recall it--must be brain damage from
too much exposure to asbestos.

Anyway, you might be able to score it and snap it. Probabaly less exposure
to airbourne fibers than if you use a saw.

>




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