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Posted by digitalmaster on June 17, 2006, 10:57 am
>
> Dan wrote:
>> I have a project which will require cutting metal bar stock, either
>> steel or aluminum (haven't decided yet), approximate cross section 4
>> 1/2" x 1/4".
>
> How many cuts do you anticipate making?
>
>> Chop saws are available for this, like this Milwaukee
>> example at Harbor Freight:
>> http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=39755
>>
>> Blade is a 14" abrasive cutoff wheel.
>
> That would do the trick. Abrasive wheels leave the ends with big
> melted burrs on them that you'll need to clean up.
>
>> Also available are compound miter saws, generally used for wood, usually
>> with blades up to 12" in diameter. Since I own neither type of saw at
>> the moment, and since the compound miter saw would have greater utility
>> for me, I am wondering if there is any reason I couldn't just use a 12"
>> abrasive cutoff wheel in a compound miter saw to cut metal. I see the
>> above cutoff saw has a max rpm of 3900. As an example, this compound
>> miter saw is rated at 4100 rpm
>> http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=91852,
>> so speed shouldn't be an issue. There are 12" cutoff disks for metal
>> rated at 6300 RPM max http://www.doityourself.com/invt/6805881. So it
>> seems like there's no problem with doing this, unless I'm missing
>> something (wouldn't be the 1st time...)
>
> A sliding compound miter saw (SCMS) will cut the metal with an abrasive
> blade just like the Milwaukee cut-off saw. It won't have the built in
> clamping mechanism like most dedicated abrasive cut-off saws. The scms
> you have shown is near the bottom in terms of quality, and certainly
> price. I wouldn't recommend it.
>
> There are a number of different ways you could cut the steel. Oh - by
> the way - if you go with aluminum that's a totally different story than
> steel. I would recommend you NOT go with an abrasive blade for cutting
> that. Use a carbide blade. Back to the steel. Abrasive blades are
> lound, shoot fire, relatively slow and leave a horrible edge. An
> alternative would be a dry cutting metal saw. This would leave a very
> clean edge with only minimal clean-up needed. I'm not positive but I
> think these saws run at a lower rpm than abrasive cut-off saws. In any
> event, they'll run you about $400 with blade. You could also use a
> portable bandsaw. Or you could take it to a steel
> fabricator/welder/body shop/mechanic? and see how much he'll charge to
> lop them up for you. I'm rambling, but there are alternatives.
>
> If you only have say 15 or less cuts, what I'd do is get a decent 10"
> "regular" compound miter saw (CMS). This won't have the slider, but a
> Dewalt, Makita or Hitachi will only set you back around $175 and you'll
> have yourself a really useful tool. If you end up cutting aluminum,
> just use the stock blade that comes with the saw (or buy a cheapy). If
> you end up going with steel get a few abrasive blades for it - they
> should run you less than $10 a piece for sure. If the finished ends
> will be exposed though, you're going to have to do some filing and/or
> sanding to make them look good.
>
> JP
>
the portable bandsaw is one of the greatest inventions known to man.If you
don't anticipate using it often get the cheap one at harbor freight.You can
cut anything from wood to stainless steel with it.
I would say get the cheap port-a-band and save the miter saws life.
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