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Posted by BobK207 on April 9, 2007, 9:59 pm
> BETAC-T wrote:
> > I have an old house with wood lath and plaster walls, and I need to cut out
> > a lot holes in the walls for light switches, electrical outlet receptacles,
> > etc.
>
> > Here is what I am doing now, and here is what the problem is:
>
> > I am just cutting them out by hand, one-by-one, using hand-held wallboard
> > saws, etc. The problem is that it is hard to keep the underlying wood lath
> > from vibrating and causing a wider area of plaster to crack and break out.
> > I have tried making sure each hole is adjacent to one of the studs so at
> > least one side of the hole has wood lath that is nailed down to the adjacent
> > stud. And, I have tried being very careful, cutting out a little, reaching
> > in to hold the rest of the wood lath stable, and then carefully cutting the
> > wood lath. But it is still a mess, doesn't work very well, and takes a long
> > time for each hole.
>
> > I don't think using any kind of powered reciprocating saw or saws-all would
> > help and probably would only make the lath vibrate more and damage a wider
> > area of plaster than using the by-hand method.
>
> > The problem seems to be the reciprocating action of the saws, so I keep
> > thinking there ought to be some kind of small circular saw that could be
> > used and plunged into the wall to cut the lath without vibrating it back and
> > forth. But I don't have, and haven't seen, a circular-type saw that would
> > be small enough to do this.
>
> > I have thought about buying one of those drill bits that supposedly can saw
> > sideways to cut holes in walls (which I saw on TV), but I haven't found
> > anything like that in any stores and I have a hunch they don't work anyway
> > (which is probably why they are only on TV).
>
> > So what the heck do professional electricians do? I keep thinking they must
> > have a tool or know of a trick to make this easy, especially since they
> > don't want to damage their customers' walls when putting in new outlets,
> > etc.
>
> > Any ideas? Thanks.
>
> Looks like you've been getting some very good advice so far. If it
> makes you feel any better, my wife is good at cutting holes in lath
> and plaster for electric boxes. When I re-wire old houses that have
> lath and plaster, all I have to do is mark where I want a box and she
> goes at it. I go to the basement and run the circuits, drill holes in
> the sill plate where the boxes are going to be and stuff the cable up
> into the hole. By that time she's done cutting in the holes and all I
> have to do is reach in and pull out the wire.
>
> The moral to the story is that brute force does not apply when cutting
> holes in lath and plaster. Easy does it. Use sharp tools. Let the
> tool do the work. Buy a couple of saws if you have to, as plaster
> will dull a saw blade quick.
>
> The trick to cutting the lath, as others have mentioned, is to _remove
> the plaster first_. The trick to removing the plaster is to _score_
> it first. Once the lath is exposed one can usually reach in with a
> pair of lineman's pliers and grab the middle lath to hold it still
> while cutting the lath. Sometimes needlenose pliers work better, or
> cut out some of the lath so the lineman's pliers will fit. Go easy
> towards the end of the cut. Cut as far as you have to in the upper
> and lower laths, on both sides, then just snap off the lath with the
> lineman's pliers.
>
> Again, easy does it, start out slow, speed will come with practice.
BETAC-T
You've gotten good advice...esp "easy does it"
I have a 1930 house with wood lath & plaster...over the years I've
added electrical boxes.
Sawzall does not work.....too much damage. :(
A sharp keyhole saw or new Sawzall blade in their handle works as well
but you've got to be careful.
I finally settled on Dremel with diamond bit thru plaster.
Dremel with wood bit thru wood lath.
Rotating bit stresses the lath/plaster less than any other techhnique.
If the plaster is smooth (not a fancy texture, like about 1/2 my
house) after the plaster plug is removed I drill through & screw the
plaster to the wood lath.
Smooth plaster is easy to fix / match......the trick textures are a
pain.
I do one box at a time & only very occasionally.
If I were doing a large number of boxes at once I would setup a jig/
guide & screw or double back tape it to the wall
And "go to town" with two rotozips (once w/ plaster bit, one with wood
bit)
Instead of mounting a "tiger box", I glue (construction adhesive)
plywood blocks to the opposite the wall interior face & screw the box
to the blocks. Reinforces the opposite wall & doesn't stress the new
hole. I use deep boxes so I don't need much plywood.
When I'm finished, I "caulk" around the box with SIKA Sikadur
AnchorFix #1.
This stuff gels in 5 minutes, full cure in 1 hour....stronger than
concrete; bonds to plaster, wood & concrete. Fits in a standard
caulk gun
The final installation is rock solid.
cheers
Bob
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