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Cutting plexiglass blueman 08-25-2006
|--> Re: Cutting plexiglass The3rd Earl Of ...08-31-2006
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Posted by Stubby on August 26, 2006, 4:29 pm
Our router tends to cause the Plexiglass to chip and leaves an ugly job.


ppp@yahoo.com wrote:
> wrote:
>
>> You have been given good advice on cutting plexi. Score and snap is
>> the way to go. a freind has a shop where he fabricates plexi. there
>> is a special blade designed for the purpose but it isn't common. YOu
>> have to go to a plexi supplier to find it. It has a hook on the end
>> so that the cutting edge faces toward you and he always scores by
>> draggin the blade toward himself. then he snaps it over the edge of
>> the table. He makes one heavy score and then snaps. he then uses a
>> buffing wheel to smooth the edge.
>
>
> The scouring tool you described can be found in the HD ceramic tile
> section. It has a carbide tip. Another improvisation is to use the
> carbide edge tip of a router bit to scour the plexiglas line.

AppliancePartsPros.com, Inc.
Posted by on August 26, 2006, 5:05 pm
On Sat, 26 Aug 2006 16:29:58 -0400, Stubby

>Our router tends to cause the Plexiglass to chip and leaves an ugly job.
>
The idea is to use the bit as a sharp point tool for drawing
(scouring) the line on the plexiglass by hand. Use that straight edge
steel ruler as a guide. I did not intend that you run the bit with
the router to make the cut. Doing that does indeed make a mess.
>>
>>
>> The scouring tool you described can be found in the HD ceramic tile
>> section. It has a carbide tip. Another improvisation is to use the
>> carbide edge tip of a router bit to scour the plexiglas line.

Posted by Buffalo on August 27, 2006, 11:01 am
blueman wrote:
>
> Are there any EASIER and MORE accurate ways to cut plexiglass?
> Can I use a regular table saw blade (or will it shatter it)?

I would suggest a plywood blade (REVERSED) so that the teeth do not chip
and drag.. Also use the tape on the cut line.. Worked for me for both
plastics and lams..

S&B Enterprises
Buffalo 'the Herd of One!'

Posted by JohnR66 on August 27, 2006, 11:50 am
>I bought a sheet of 48x24" plexiglass at home depot (maybe about 1/8"
> thick).
>
> I am trying to cut in 7" slices (each 48" long).
> Per the instructions from the Home Depot guy, I bought a blade that is
> supposed to score the Plexiglass and then you snap it.
>
> Well, I am having 2 problems.
> First, I am finding it hard to score precisely on a straight line
> (even though I am following a steel straight edge). The blade keeps
> wanting to slip away slightly.
>
> Second, after scoring with several passes, when I snap it, it ends up
> breaking only partially along the line (and the rest breaks away at a
> short angle).
>
> One solution, would be to just be more careful on scoring the line and
> then scoring even deeper with more multiple passes.
>
> Are there any EASIER and MORE accurate ways to cut plexiglass?
> Can I use a regular table saw blade (or will it shatter it)?
> What about a jigsaw or a dremel?
>
> Thanks

I build acrylic display cases as a side business/hobby. I use a large table
saw with a very expensive ($200+) narrow kerf triple chip alternate tooth
profile blade made from C4 carbide (80 tooth). The blade should protrude
1/4" through the material. Next it gets run through a joiner for a beautiful
edge that will take polishing nicely. For scoring, I use a $1,800 Fletcher
multi material cutter...

Okay, okay, you need the cheap solution! For scoring I recommend a drywall T
square. The large T section helps keep it square and in position. I put some
"Foamies" self adhesive foam on the back of the T to keep it stationary. You
MUST be sure the successive passes you make are in the same groove or the
break will run out of the groove. With a single motion to break the
material, I can break out up to 1/4 inch thick sheets that look very clean.
However, I find it is hard to breakout pieces near a parallel edge without
runout and the accuracy may be off 1/64 or more end to end which is not
ideal for cementing boxes together. I use a fletcher scoring tool to make
the cut. It has a comfortable grip and changable blades. I only have to make
3 passes with this method on 1/8 material.

Check here for the heavy duty handheld plastic cutter
http://www.fletcher-terry.com/framing/

Good luck
John



Posted by JohnR66 on August 27, 2006, 11:52 am
>>I bought a sheet of 48x24" plexiglass at home depot (maybe about 1/8"
>> thick).
>>
>> I am trying to cut in 7" slices (each 48" long).
>> Per the instructions from the Home Depot guy, I bought a blade that is
>> supposed to score the Plexiglass and then you snap it.
>>
>> Well, I am having 2 problems.
>> First, I am finding it hard to score precisely on a straight line
>> (even though I am following a steel straight edge). The blade keeps
>> wanting to slip away slightly.
>>
>> Second, after scoring with several passes, when I snap it, it ends up
>> breaking only partially along the line (and the rest breaks away at a
>> short angle).
>>
>> One solution, would be to just be more careful on scoring the line and
>> then scoring even deeper with more multiple passes.
>>
>> Are there any EASIER and MORE accurate ways to cut plexiglass?
>> Can I use a regular table saw blade (or will it shatter it)?
>> What about a jigsaw or a dremel?
>>
>> Thanks
>
> I build acrylic display cases as a side business/hobby. I use a large
> table saw with a very expensive ($200+) narrow kerf triple chip alternate
> tooth profile blade made from C4 carbide (80 tooth). The blade should
> protrude 1/4" through the material. Next it gets run through a joiner for
> a beautiful edge that will take polishing nicely. For scoring, I use a
> $1,800 Fletcher multi material cutter...
>
> Okay, okay, you need the cheap solution! For scoring I recommend a drywall
> T square. The large T section helps keep it square and in position. I put
> some "Foamies" self adhesive foam on the back of the T to keep it
> stationary. You MUST be sure the successive passes you make are in the
> same groove or the break will run out of the groove. With a single motion
> to break the material, I can break out up to 1/4 inch thick sheets that
> look very clean. However, I find it is hard to breakout pieces near a
> parallel edge without runout and the accuracy may be off 1/64 or more end
> to end which is not ideal for cementing boxes together. I use a fletcher
> scoring tool to make the cut. It has a comfortable grip and changable
> blades. I only have to make 3 passes with this method on 1/8 material.
>
> Check here for the heavy duty handheld plastic cutter
> http://www.fletcher-terry.com/framing/
>
> Good luck
> John
Oh, and one last thing. It may cost more than the plastic, but if this is a
one shot deal, it may be better to have someone cut it for you.
John



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