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Posted by CW on August 27, 2006, 1:41 pm
To read this thread, you'd think this was brain surgery or something. Put a
plywood blade on the tablesaw and cut it.
> >>I bought a sheet of 48x24" plexiglass at home depot (maybe about 1/8"
> >> thick).
> >>
> >> I am trying to cut in 7" slices (each 48" long).
> >> Per the instructions from the Home Depot guy, I bought a blade that is
> >> supposed to score the Plexiglass and then you snap it.
> >>
> >> Well, I am having 2 problems.
> >> First, I am finding it hard to score precisely on a straight line
> >> (even though I am following a steel straight edge). The blade keeps
> >> wanting to slip away slightly.
> >>
> >> Second, after scoring with several passes, when I snap it, it ends up
> >> breaking only partially along the line (and the rest breaks away at a
> >> short angle).
> >>
> >> One solution, would be to just be more careful on scoring the line and
> >> then scoring even deeper with more multiple passes.
> >>
> >> Are there any EASIER and MORE accurate ways to cut plexiglass?
> >> Can I use a regular table saw blade (or will it shatter it)?
> >> What about a jigsaw or a dremel?
> >>
> >> Thanks
> >
> > I build acrylic display cases as a side business/hobby. I use a large
> > table saw with a very expensive ($200+) narrow kerf triple chip
alternate
> > tooth profile blade made from C4 carbide (80 tooth). The blade should
> > protrude 1/4" through the material. Next it gets run through a joiner
for
> > a beautiful edge that will take polishing nicely. For scoring, I use a
> > $1,800 Fletcher multi material cutter...
> >
> > Okay, okay, you need the cheap solution! For scoring I recommend a
drywall
> > T square. The large T section helps keep it square and in position. I
put
> > some "Foamies" self adhesive foam on the back of the T to keep it
> > stationary. You MUST be sure the successive passes you make are in the
> > same groove or the break will run out of the groove. With a single
motion
> > to break the material, I can break out up to 1/4 inch thick sheets that
> > look very clean. However, I find it is hard to breakout pieces near a
> > parallel edge without runout and the accuracy may be off 1/64 or more
end
> > to end which is not ideal for cementing boxes together. I use a fletcher
> > scoring tool to make the cut. It has a comfortable grip and changable
> > blades. I only have to make 3 passes with this method on 1/8 material.
> >
> > Check here for the heavy duty handheld plastic cutter
> > http://www.fletcher-terry.com/framing/
> >
> > Good luck
> > John
> Oh, and one last thing. It may cost more than the plastic, but if this is
a
> one shot deal, it may be better to have someone cut it for you.
> John
>
>
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