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Subject Author Date
Dimmable CFL Tony Hwang 04-26-2008
---> Re: Dimmable CFL =?ISO-8859-1?Q?...04-27-2008
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Posted by Wayne Boatwright on April 27, 2008, 6:39 pm
On Sun 27 Apr 2008 02:50:37p, Frank told us...

> I have replaced 8 can lights with 16 watt dimmable bulbs and they are
> great been in use about 1yr. I also replaced same situation lamps over
> my bar but on same circuit as flame type lamps on same dimmer. CFL
> lasted 2min. Seems like the CFL lamp is killed by voltage noise or
> disruption.
> Not going to plug CFL mfg unless asked.
> Frank

I think the problem is mixing incandescents of any type along with CFLs on
the same dimmer.



--
Wayne Boatwright
-------------------------------------------
Sunday, 04(IV)/27(XXVII)/08(MMVIII)
-------------------------------------------
Today is: Rogation Sunday
Countdown till Memorial Day
4wks 8hrs 25mins
-------------------------------------------
For sale, Toilet-seat cover. Barely used.
-------------------------------------------


Posted by Pete C. on April 27, 2008, 9:41 pm

Wayne Boatwright wrote:
>
> On Sun 27 Apr 2008 12:42:38p, Pete C. told us...
>
> >
> > Don Klipstein wrote:
> >>
> >> wrote:
> >> >Blattus Slafaly ? (3) ¼ :) wrote:
> >> >> Tony Hwang wrote:
> >> >>> Hi,
> >> >>> Came across a 23W dimmable CFL. Got one to try it out.
> >> >>> It worked ~2 hours and pop, it went to full brightness and no more
> >> >>> dimmable??!! Are they this unreliable? Or I got bad one.
> >> >>
> >> >> You can't really expect a CFL to have the same range as an
> >> >> incandescent bulb. If you are testing it to extremes you can expect
> >> >> it to pop.
> >> >>
> >> >I don't believe that it should be
> >> >expected to pop. I have 2 of them.
> >> >They don't dim very well. By that I
> >> >mean, when dimmed, they flicker
> >> >quite a bit. The range is good if you
> >> >can stand the blinkety blink. There
> >> >are spots where they seem to settle down
> >> >and be ok. BTW, I am
> >> >using this on an X10 lamp module, so
> >> >finding a "good" spot is quite
> >> >difficult. With a real dimmer, it might be easier.
> >>
> >> I have this sinking feeling that dimmable screw-base CFLs at least
> >> sometimes lack provision to have their filaments maintained at a proper
> >> temperature when they are dimmed. I would expect some compromise in
> >> life expectancy with severe or moderately severe dimming.
> >>
> >> One scheme mentioned a lot in some thread in sci.engr.lighting
> >> earlier
> >> this year is to have two sets of lights in a room - one for bright
> >> lighting and another for dim lighting.
> >
> > Back to the old style 3-way lighting from before they made multi
> > filament lamps and used several individual lamps instead. Put three
> > small normal CFLs in that type of fixture and you're all set.
> >
>
> Hmm... Yes, like the old floor lamps that had 3 standard base sockets and
> one central mogul base socket. I wish I still had one of the really nice
> ones that my parents had. It was a beautiful lamp with marble base and
> engraved bronze post. An adapter could be put in the mogul base in order
> to use a CFL there, too.

They have big honkin' CFLs with mogul bases too. They're starting to
appear at the big boxes. You have to be careful though because there are
also some similar looking mogul based CFLs that are designed to directly
replace HID lights such as mercury vapor without removing the HID
ballast.

>
> We have several true antique tiffany-style glass and craftsman style lamps
> with mica shades that have either 2 or 3 pull chain sockets in them.
> However, I still use clear incandescent bulbs in them because the CFLs make
> them look extremely dull. I have thumbwheel dimmers on the line cords and
> I use slightly higher wattage bulbs than one might want so that when dimmed
> they give a much warmer light.

Have you tried looking for a CFL with a warmer (lower) color
temperature? Also if you try them be sure to try them for a few days
since your eyes will adjust.

Posted by Wayne Boatwright on April 27, 2008, 10:11 pm
On Sun 27 Apr 2008 06:41:34p, Pete C. told us...

>
> Wayne Boatwright wrote:
>>
>> On Sun 27 Apr 2008 12:42:38p, Pete C. told us...
>>
>> >
>> > Don Klipstein wrote:
>> >>
>> >> Todesco wrote:
>> >> >Blattus Slafaly ? (3) ¼ :) wrote:
>> >> >> Tony Hwang wrote:
>> >> >>> Hi,
>> >> >>> Came across a 23W dimmable CFL. Got one to try it out.
>> >> >>> It worked ~2 hours and pop, it went to full brightness and no
>> >> >>> more dimmable??!! Are they this unreliable? Or I got bad one.
>> >> >>
>> >> >> You can't really expect a CFL to have the same range as an
>> >> >> incandescent bulb. If you are testing it to extremes you can
>> >> >> expect it to pop.
>> >> >>
>> >> >I don't believe that it should be
>> >> >expected to pop. I have 2 of them.
>> >> >They don't dim very well. By that I
>> >> >mean, when dimmed, they flicker
>> >> >quite a bit. The range is good if you
>> >> >can stand the blinkety blink. There
>> >> >are spots where they seem to settle down
>> >> >and be ok. BTW, I am
>> >> >using this on an X10 lamp module, so
>> >> >finding a "good" spot is quite difficult. With a real dimmer, it
>> >> >might be easier.
>> >>
>> >> I have this sinking feeling that dimmable screw-base CFLs at least
>> >> sometimes lack provision to have their filaments maintained at a
>> >> proper temperature when they are dimmed. I would expect some
>> >> compromise in life expectancy with severe or moderately severe
>> >> dimming.
>> >>
>> >> One scheme mentioned a lot in some thread in sci.engr.lighting
>> >> earlier
>> >> this year is to have two sets of lights in a room - one for bright
>> >> lighting and another for dim lighting.
>> >
>> > Back to the old style 3-way lighting from before they made multi
>> > filament lamps and used several individual lamps instead. Put three
>> > small normal CFLs in that type of fixture and you're all set.
>> >
>>
>> Hmm... Yes, like the old floor lamps that had 3 standard base sockets
>> and one central mogul base socket. I wish I still had one of the
>> really nice ones that my parents had. It was a beautiful lamp with
>> marble base and engraved bronze post. An adapter could be put in the
>> mogul base in order to use a CFL there, too.
>
> They have big honkin' CFLs with mogul bases too. They're starting to
> appear at the big boxes. You have to be careful though because there are
> also some similar looking mogul based CFLs that are designed to directly
> replace HID lights such as mercury vapor without removing the HID
> ballast.

Thanks, Pete, didn't know that. Unfortunately, I no longer have any of the
floor lamps I could have used one in.

>> We have several true antique tiffany-style glass and craftsman style
>> lamps with mica shades that have either 2 or 3 pull chain sockets in
>> them. However, I still use clear incandescent bulbs in them because the
>> CFLs make them look extremely dull. I have thumbwheel dimmers on the
>> line cords and I use slightly higher wattage bulbs than one might want
>> so that when dimmed they give a much warmer light.
>
> Have you tried looking for a CFL with a warmer (lower) color
> temperature? Also if you try them be sure to try them for a few days
> since your eyes will adjust.

It's not just the color (warmth) of the light that's an issue. It's the
transparency of an clear incandescent and the filiment showing through that
causes the glass shades to glisten. I doubt there will ever be a CFL that
can produce that effect.

At least the upcoming ban on many incandescent bulbs will not include
decorative bulbs like the very old style of swirled flame bulb. At least
that's my understanding.

Another option I've used in very old lighting with two bulbs is wiring them
in series. The bulbs last forever and the color and intensity is just
right. I have one fixture that remains on constantly, that the bulbs are
probably 30 years old or older.

As an aside, it's been said that Edison's home in Florida that is wired
with DC power still has the working original bulbs throughout.

--
Wayne Boatwright
-------------------------------------------
Sunday, 04(IV)/27(XXVII)/08(MMVIII)
-------------------------------------------
Today is: Rogation Sunday
Countdown till Memorial Day
4wks 4hrs 55mins
-------------------------------------------
'Make it idiot proof and someone will
make a better idiot.'
-------------------------------------------

Posted by Don Klipstein on April 27, 2008, 11:32 pm
Boatwright wrote in part:

>Another option I've used in very old lighting with two bulbs is wiring them
>in series. The bulbs last forever and the color and intensity is just
>right. I have one fixture that remains on constantly, that the bulbs are
>probably 30 years old or older.
>
>As an aside, it's been said that Edison's home in Florida that is wired
>with DC power still has the working original bulbs throughout.

Just keep in mind that such century-life incandescents have energy
efficiency so low that in order to produce a given amount of light, you
increase your electric bill more than you decrease your lightbulb
replacement costs.

The first-mass-marketed carbon filament incandescents had energy
efficiency of a couple to at most a few lumens per watt.

There is a "centennial bulb" with a webcam showing a publicly accessable
view of it continuing to work. I give low odds of its energy efficiency
exceeding that of a 230 volt incandescent being powered by 120 volts, or
roughly 1/4-1/3 that of modern 60-100 watt 750-1000 hour incandescents.

http://www.centennialbulb.org

- Don Klipstein (don@misty.com)

Posted by Wayne Boatwright on April 28, 2008, 12:25 am
On Sun 27 Apr 2008 08:32:16p, Don Klipstein told us...

> Boatwright wrote in part:
>
>>Another option I've used in very old lighting with two bulbs is wiring
>>them in series. The bulbs last forever and the color and intensity is
>>just right. I have one fixture that remains on constantly, that the
>>bulbs are probably 30 years old or older.
>>
>>As an aside, it's been said that Edison's home in Florida that is wired
>>with DC power still has the working original bulbs throughout.
>
> Just keep in mind that such century-life incandescents have energy
> efficiency so low that in order to produce a given amount of light, you
> increase your electric bill more than you decrease your lightbulb
> replacement costs.
>
> The first-mass-marketed carbon filament incandescents had energy
> efficiency of a couple to at most a few lumens per watt.
>
> There is a "centennial bulb" with a webcam showing a publicly
> accessable
> view of it continuing to work. I give low odds of its energy efficiency
> exceeding that of a 230 volt incandescent being powered by 120 volts, or
> roughly 1/4-1/3 that of modern 60-100 watt 750-1000 hour incandescents.
>
> http://www.centennialbulb.org
>
> - Don Klipstein (don@misty.com)

I've no doubt of the inefficiency, but thought it was interesting, and
I've seen the Centennial Bulb before. Just thought it was a curiosity.

As a further aside, my dad had a habit of installing double light fixtures
with 25 watt bulbs at strategic places throughout the house and basement,
wired in series, to produce a very low light level. He didn't like walking
into dark rooms, especially when the light switch wasn't near the entry.
To him, of course, this wasn't a waste of energy. Of course, this was in
an era when energy consumption was not an issue or concern.

--
Wayne Boatwright
-------------------------------------------
Sunday, 04(IV)/27(XXVII)/08(MMVIII)
-------------------------------------------
Today is: Rogation Sunday
Countdown till Memorial Day
4wks 2hrs 40mins
-------------------------------------------
If you do not strive with others, you
will be free from blame-Lao Tzu
-------------------------------------------

Page 3 of 9       < 1 2 3 > last >>
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