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Do it yourself fumigating malibu.ron@verizon.net 10-26-2007
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Posted by malibu.ron@verizon.net on October 26, 2007, 9:39 pm
I am putting a new roof on a 40 year old home. The roof is stripped
down to the beams and numerous walls are open to replace damaged
beams. From everything I gather this is an ideal time to treat the
openings for future termite problems. I plan to generously spry
orange oil. My thoughts are to also blow in boric acid. Are there
any packages that I could deposit in the walls for a longer lasting
effect.


Posted by Frank on October 27, 2007, 8:02 am
malibu.ron@verizon.net wrote:
> I am putting a new roof on a 40 year old home. The roof is stripped
> down to the beams and numerous walls are open to replace damaged
> beams. From everything I gather this is an ideal time to treat the
> openings for future termite problems. I plan to generously spry
> orange oil. My thoughts are to also blow in boric acid. Are there
> any packages that I could deposit in the walls for a longer lasting
> effect.
>
I can only respond as a chemist with no practical experience. Boric
acid/borates would look good to me. Here's something I googled up:
http://www.askthebuilder.com/272-StopTermites-Soak-Wood-with-Safe-Borates.shtml
I would think orange oil might function as a repellent but might stink
up house and eventually evaporate.

Frank

Posted by Lar on October 27, 2007, 10:34 am
malibu.ron@verizon.net wrote:
> I am putting a new roof on a 40 year old home. The roof is stripped
> down to the beams and numerous walls are open to replace damaged
> beams. From everything I gather this is an ideal time to treat the
> openings for future termite problems. I plan to generously spry
> orange oil. My thoughts are to also blow in boric acid. Are there
> any packages that I could deposit in the walls for a longer lasting
> effect.
>

First question would be are you in an area where dry wood termites are
even an issue, otherwise the only real protection would be a soil
treatment for subterranean termites. Boric acid is a heavy crystal and
does not "blow" well. You will end up with an area with way too much BA
to be effective and not enough in other areas. Now what a home owner can
do is apply a product called Tim-bor. Mix the package up with a gallon
of water and spray the exposed wood to point of run off. It can be an
aid for wood destroying insects and fungi.

During construction is a good time to timely apply different products,
but would think it would be best to hire a pro so that you know that
proper products and placements are being done so that in a year down the
road you find out all the work and money spent now was not a waste of time.

Lar

Posted by John Keiser on October 27, 2007, 11:10 am
BORATE WOOD PRESERVATIVES:

COMMERCIAL AND HOME-BREWED

Commercial:

Tim-BorŽ: Solid sodium octaborate; dissolves in water to make approx. a 10%
solution containing 6.6% borate (B2O3); about $13/lb. Covers about 200 sq
ft.

Bora-CareŽ: 40% solution of sodium octaborate in ethylene glycol; 27% borate
content; $90/gal. for the concentrate.

Home-Brew Water Solution of Borates:

Based on U.S. Navy spec. of 60% borax-40% boric acid (this ratio gives the
maximum solubility of borates in water);


#1. This is equiv. to Tim-BorŽ... 6 parts of borax and 4 parts of boric
acid.

To prepare one gallon of a 10% solution, start with an oversize container
(larger than 1 gallon ) add 1 lb. of powder to appx 3 qts of water agitating
until the powder has dissolved, then add additional water to end up with 1
gallon of mix. To prepare a 15% solution, add 1.5 lbs. of powder, then add
the remainder of the water and mix as previously. Approximately 1 gallon of
solution will be needed to treat 200 square feet of wood surface area.
(Note: solutions should be used immediately and not stored.) .


EXAMPLE: Prepare 5 gallons of 10% solution:

Add four (4) gallons of clear, warm water to a six-gallon bucket.

Add five (5) lbs. of powder while gently stirring.

Add enough water to bring the final volume to 5 gallons, and continue to
stir until all of the powder has dissolved.

Agitate the solution briefly at the beginning of each spray job, or after
the solution has been standing for an extended period.

Do not spray or spill onto soil or foliage.


Apply two applications of a 10% solution to wood surfaces by brush or spray.
Apply one application of a 15% solution to wood surfaces by brush or spray.
Applications may be made to wood structures including decks, fences, steps,
sheds, barns and other out-buildings.


#2: This is equivalent to Bora-CareŽ

Prepare the concentrate:

Mix 1 Gallon glycol antifreeze, 4 1/2 pounds borax, 3 1/2 pounds boric acid.

Mix the ingredients and heat till boiling gently. Boil off water until a
candy thermometer shows 260°F. This removes most of the water of
crystallization in the borax.

This solution is stable at 40°F and has a borate content of 26%. This is
equivalent to Bora-

CareŽ at about $90/gal. for the concentrate. The concentrate must be diluted
with an equal volume of water before being applied.


Application: Add 1 gallon of water to every gallon of concentrate and stir
thoroughly until solution is completely uniform. Always use diluted within
24 hours after mixing. If kept for longer periods of time, the active
ingredient can drop out of the solution.


Note: is toxic to plants and shrubbery; if necessary, cover plants, root
systems and surrounding soil with plastic to avoid contamination. Apply only
to bare wood. Remove any finish or water repellent coating before applying .
Wood surfaces should be free of dirt and other contaminates. Apply diluted
by spray or brush to all exposed wood surfaces. It may occasionally be
necessary to apply more than one coat of to attain the recommended
application rate. This is especially true for larger, smooth surfaced wood
members. Wood surfaces should be allowed to dry for at least 2 hours between
applications. Do not apply in the rain or snow. If inclement weather is
expected, protect exposed treated surface with a plastic tarp for at least
24 hours after treatment. One gallon of concentrate will treat up to 800
board feet of wood. Only diluted should be applied to any wood surface.
Prior to application, check wood surfaces for an existing water repellent
finish by spraying a small amount of water onto the surface of the wood or
logs. If the water beads up or is not absorbed into the wood, a finish is
present which must be removed before applying the diluted solution.


--
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Posted by Norminn on October 27, 2007, 2:29 pm
malibu.ron@verizon.net wrote:
> I am putting a new roof on a 40 year old home. The roof is stripped
> down to the beams and numerous walls are open to replace damaged
> beams. From everything I gather this is an ideal time to treat the
> openings for future termite problems. I plan to generously spry
> orange oil. My thoughts are to also blow in boric acid. Are there
> any packages that I could deposit in the walls for a longer lasting
> effect.
>

DIY fumigating is a lot like DIY fire fighting - best left to experts.
I have no idea how widespread the stuff is, but I sure would search
exhaustively for information before saturating my house with it. I did
a quick google search and found some interesting info:

http://www.floridachemical.com/MSDSdlimonenematerialsafetydatasheets.htm

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