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Do new electric dryers come with cords?

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Do new electric dryers come with cords? zzyzzx 04-03-2008
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Posted by Pete C. on April 3, 2008, 4:48 pm

"Percival P. Cassidy" wrote:
>
> On 04/03/08 03:08 pm DerbyDad03 wrote:
>
> >>> I was in Lowes last night and I noticed that none of the electric
> >>> dryers had electric cords on them. Is that how they all do it?
> >>> Reason why I'm asking is because a friend of mine needs a new dryer
> >>> outlet, and it's the 3 prong style. I was wondering if I should put
> >>> in a 4 prong in it's place so when that dryer goes the new one will
> >>> just plug in. after my trip to the store, I'm more inclined to think
> >>> that since maybe new dryers don't come with cords, maybe I should just
> >>> put in another 3 prong plug since that's what the existing dryer has
> >>> and any potential new dryer would need a new cord installed anyway.
> >>> Can someone verify that?
>
> >> The three-prong connectors (or hardwired connections) for dryers and
> >> ranges is an old scheme that involved connecting ground to neutral
> >> inside the appliance. It saved copper but is now regarded as unsafe,
> >> and is against code in many places, certainly around here (where
> >> dryers and ranges are sold with cords). Under certain circumstances, a
> >> fault in a circuit or other appliance anywhere in the house could
> >> result in the entire metal cabinet of the appliance carrying a 120V
> >> charge, just as you're standing on the basement floor loading wet
> >> laundry into it.
> >>
> >> Even if local code doesn't require it, I'd say put in a 4-prong outlet
> >> (14-30R for a dryer, 14-50R for a range, and of course you'll need to
> >> run new 4-wire cable of suitable gauge) and have such a cord installed
> >> on the appliance. If the appliance is being converted from a 3-prong
> >> setup, make sure the neutral-to-ground jumper is removed.
>
> > er: the entire metal cabinet of the appliance carrying a 120V charge,
> > just as you're standing on the basement floor loading wet laundry into
> > it.
>
> I don't think so: a properly installed 4-prong setup will have a
> separate ground conductor to which the cabinet of the washer will be
> connected. AIUI, it is not permitted to have the ground and neutral
> connected anywhere other than at the main panel.
>
> Perce

In the three wire configuration for a dryer there is a bonding strap
between the ground and neutral terminals *of the dryer*. If there is a
three wire cord set, there is no bonding of the house neutral and ground
since both are not present on a three wire cord set.

It is possible that someone could install a four wire cord set on the
dryer without removing the dryers bonding strap which would result in a
bonding of the house neutral and ground which would not be to code, and
is the situation that was referenced.

Posted by DerbyDad03 on April 4, 2008, 3:36 pm
> "Percival P. Cassidy" wrote:
>
> > On 04/03/08 03:08 pm DerbyDad03 wrote:
>
> > >>> I was in Lowes last night and I noticed that none of the electric
> > >>> dryers had electric cords on them. =A0Is that how they all do it?
> > >>> Reason why I'm asking is because a friend of mine needs a new dryer
> > >>> outlet, and it's the 3 prong style. =A0I was wondering if I should p=
ut
> > >>> in a 4 prong in it's place so when that dryer goes the new one will
> > >>> just plug in. =A0after my trip to the store, I'm more inclined to th=
ink
> > >>> that since maybe new dryers don't come with cords, maybe I should ju=
st
> > >>> put in another 3 prong plug since that's what the existing dryer has=

> > >>> and any potential new dryer would need a new cord installed anyway.
> > >>> Can someone verify that?
>
> > >> The three-prong connectors (or hardwired connections) for dryers and
> > >> ranges is an old scheme that involved connecting ground to neutral
> > >> inside the appliance. It saved copper but is now regarded as unsafe,
> > >> and is against code in many places, certainly around here (where
> > >> dryers and ranges are sold with cords). Under certain circumstances, =
a
> > >> fault in a circuit or other appliance anywhere in the house could
> > >> result in the entire metal cabinet of the appliance carrying a 120V
> > >> charge, just as you're standing on the basement floor loading wet
> > >> laundry into it.
>
> > >> Even if local code doesn't require it, I'd say put in a 4-prong outle=
t
> > >> (14-30R for a dryer, 14-50R for a range, and of course you'll need to=

> > >> run new 4-wire cable of suitable gauge) and have such a cord installe=
d
> > >> on the appliance. If the appliance is being converted from a 3-prong
> > >> setup, make sure the neutral-to-ground jumper is removed.
>
> > > er: the entire metal cabinet of the appliance carrying a 120V charge,
> > > just as you're standing on the basement floor loading wet laundry into=

> > > it.
>
> > I don't think so: a properly installed 4-prong setup will have a
> > separate ground conductor to which the cabinet of the washer will be
> > connected. AIUI, it is not permitted to have the ground and neutral
> > connected anywhere other than at the main panel.
>
> > Perce
>
> In the three wire configuration for a dryer there is a bonding strap
> between the ground and neutral terminals *of the dryer*. If there is a
> three wire cord set, there is no bonding of the house neutral and ground
> since both are not present on a three wire cord set.
>
> It is possible that someone could install a four wire cord set on the
> dryer without removing the dryers bonding strap which would result in a
> bonding of the house neutral and ground which would not be to code, and
> is the situation that was referenced.- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -

re: In the three wire configuration for a dryer there is a bonding
strap between the ground and neutral terminals *of the dryer*.

Could you explain that further? Where is this bonding strap you speak
off?

Can I assume the bonding strap would be a jumper on the terminal strip
that the 3 pronger was attached to?

I may have to go back and check my friend's dryer - the one I swapped
out the 3 prong cord on - to make sure I did it correctly. I don't
recall seeing a jumper, so I certainly don't recall removing one.


Posted by DerbyDad03 on April 4, 2008, 3:32 pm
> On 04/03/08 03:08 pm DerbyDad03 wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
> >>> I was in Lowes last night and I noticed that none of the electric
> >>> dryers had electric cords on them. =A0Is that how they all do it?
> >>> Reason why I'm asking is because a friend of mine needs a new dryer
> >>> outlet, and it's the 3 prong style. =A0I was wondering if I should put=

> >>> in a 4 prong in it's place so when that dryer goes the new one will
> >>> just plug in. =A0after my trip to the store, I'm more inclined to thin=
k
> >>> that since maybe new dryers don't come with cords, maybe I should just=

> >>> put in another 3 prong plug since that's what the existing dryer has
> >>> and any potential new dryer would need a new cord installed anyway.
> >>> Can someone verify that?
> >> The three-prong connectors (or hardwired connections) for dryers and
> >> ranges is an old scheme that involved connecting ground to neutral
> >> inside the appliance. It saved copper but is now regarded as unsafe,
> >> and is against code in many places, certainly around here (where
> >> dryers and ranges are sold with cords). Under certain circumstances, a
> >> fault in a circuit or other appliance anywhere in the house could
> >> result in the entire metal cabinet of the appliance carrying a 120V
> >> charge, just as you're standing on the basement floor loading wet
> >> laundry into it.
>
> >> Even if local code doesn't require it, I'd say put in a 4-prong outlet
> >> (14-30R for a dryer, 14-50R for a range, and of course you'll need to
> >> run new 4-wire cable of suitable gauge) and have such a cord installed
> >> on the appliance. If the appliance is being converted from a 3-prong
> >> setup, make sure the neutral-to-ground jumper is removed.
> > er: the entire metal cabinet of the appliance carrying a 120V charge,
> > just as you're standing on the basement floor loading wet laundry into
> > it.
>
> I don't think so: a properly installed 4-prong setup will have a
> separate ground conductor to which the cabinet of the washer will be
> connected. AIUI, it is not permitted to have the ground and neutral
> connected anywhere other than at the main panel.
>
> Perce- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -

Perce,

Please be careful how you edit posts. Even though your post begins
with "DerbyDad03 wrote", there is nothing in there that came from me.

It looks as if you replied to my (extremely humorous) response to one
of the posts in this thread, but snipped out my response making it
look as if I penned the remaining words.

Posted by z on April 4, 2008, 1:19 pm
>
> > I was in Lowes last night and I noticed that none of the electric
> > dryers had electric cords on them. =A0Is that how they all do it?
>
> > Reason why I'm asking is because a friend of mine needs a new dryer
> > outlet, and it's the 3 prong style. =A0I was wondering if I should put
> > in a 4 prong in it's place so when that dryer goes the new one will
> > just plug in. =A0after my trip to the store, I'm more inclined to think
> > that since maybe new dryers don't come with cords, maybe I should just
> > put in another 3 prong plug since that's what the existing dryer has
> > and any potential new dryer would need a new cord installed anyway.
>
> > Can someone verify that?
>
> The three-prong connectors (or hardwired connections) for dryers and
> ranges is an old scheme that involved connecting ground to neutral
> inside the appliance. It saved copper but is now regarded as unsafe,
> and is against code in many places, certainly around here (where
> dryers and ranges are sold with cords). Under certain circumstances, a
> fault in a circuit or other appliance anywhere in the house could
> result in the entire metal cabinet of the appliance carrying a 120V
> charge, just as you're standing on the basement floor loading wet
> laundry into it.
>
> Even if local code doesn't require it, I'd say put in a 4-prong outlet
> (14-30R for a dryer, 14-50R for a range, and of course you'll need to
> run new 4-wire cable of suitable gauge) and have such a cord installed
> on the appliance. If the appliance is being converted from a 3-prong
> setup, make sure the neutral-to-ground jumper is removed.
>
> Chip C
> Toronto

related dumb question;
re the 50 amp 220 volt outlets that look like a giant 110 volt 15 amp
outlet:
i assume that what would be the ground in the 110 volt outlet is also
the ground in the 220 outlet; so I assume that means this outlet has
the two hot leads only, without any neutral, right?
(note, this is just curiosity, i'm not planning anything).
does a drier need the neutral for anything, i.e. does the timer run on
110 or something?
t.i.a.

Posted by Ralph Mowery on April 4, 2008, 2:34 pm



related dumb question;
re the 50 amp 220 volt outlets that look like a giant 110 volt 15 amp
outlet:
i assume that what would be the ground in the 110 volt outlet is also
the ground in the 220 outlet; so I assume that means this outlet has
the two hot leads only, without any neutral, right?
(note, this is just curiosity, i'm not planning anything).
does a drier need the neutral for anything, i.e. does the timer run on
110 or something?
t.i.a.

$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$

Most dryers will need the neutral wire for the timer motor. Same for
stoves. The clock will usually run on 120 volts.
While it may be called many things, the ground and neutral wires are hooked
together in the breaker box. The plug you are taling about , if used for
the dryer, uses one of the wires for both the neutral and ground.
If a 4 wire setup is used, the ground wire is connected to the frame of the
dryer and the neutral wire will not be connected to the frame. This
isolates all the wiring from the frame of the dryer.




Page 2 of 4       < 1 2 3 > last >>
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