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Drilling a hole in a porcelain sink Butzmark 09-05-2006
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Posted by Butzmark on September 5, 2006, 7:49 pm
I just got an reverse osmosis filter. The first step in installation
is to make a one and a quarter inch hole in the sink top for it's
faucet. I bought a bimetal hole saw of that size and proceeded to try
to drill a pilot hole with an 1 inch metal bit...no luck. Tomorrow
I'll go buy something else for the pilot hole. I'm thinking I may need
an abrasive bit for the porcelain layer and then switch to the
bimetal. Anybody know?


Posted by Steve Bushakus on September 5, 2006, 10:23 pm
I drilled a hole in my porcelain sink for an RO faucet too and it was easier
than I thought it would be. The key is to get a carbide hole saw. I got mine
from Home Depot, about 20.00
Go slow to minimize chipping.

Good luck

>I just got an reverse osmosis filter. The first step in installation
> is to make a one and a quarter inch hole in the sink top for it's
> faucet. I bought a bimetal hole saw of that size and proceeded to try
> to drill a pilot hole with an 1 inch metal bit...no luck. Tomorrow
> I'll go buy something else for the pilot hole. I'm thinking I may need
> an abrasive bit for the porcelain layer and then switch to the
> bimetal. Anybody know?
>



Posted by Richard J Kinch on September 6, 2006, 12:19 am
Butzmark writes:

> I'm thinking I may need
> an abrasive bit for the porcelain layer and then switch to the
> bimetal.

If you want a neat hole, it will take some tools. I would start with an
deep X cut with the edge of an small abrasive disk to locate the center.
Then carbide drill for a mandrel hole. Then a carbide, or better diamond,
hole saw. Switch to bimetal for the steel or cast iron.

If you want a sloppy hole, just chip off the porcelain with a mallet and
chisel. Score the outline with a template and carbide or diamond scribe
for better results.

Posted by on September 6, 2006, 9:23 am
Copper or brass tubing of the diameter of the hole you want to drill
and some coarse silicon carbide abrasive grit. Cut a few slots in the
end of the tubing, make a dam with putty around the drilling site. Add
grit and water to the dam and use the tubing as the drill with it's end
charged in the grit every few seconds.
Butzmark wrote:
> I just got an reverse osmosis filter. The first step in installation
> is to make a one and a quarter inch hole in the sink top for it's
> faucet. I bought a bimetal hole saw of that size and proceeded to try
> to drill a pilot hole with an 1 inch metal bit...no luck. Tomorrow
> I'll go buy something else for the pilot hole. I'm thinking I may need
> an abrasive bit for the porcelain layer and then switch to the
> bimetal. Anybody know?


Posted by Jeff Wisnia on September 6, 2006, 5:51 pm
bamboo@localnet.com wrote:

> Copper or brass tubing of the diameter of the hole you want to drill
> and some coarse silicon carbide abrasive grit. Cut a few slots in the
> end of the tubing, make a dam with putty around the drilling site. Add
> grit and water to the dam and use the tubing as the drill with it's end
> charged in the grit every few seconds.


Uh, you left off telling him how to spin that 1-1/4" tubing other than
by rolling it between the palms of his hands.

Seems unlikely that he'd have a power drill around with a chuck that
large. (Or could lift it if he did. <G>)

OTOH, if he found that a 1" copper sweat pipe cap was the right size he
could drill a 1/4" hole centerED in it's end and use a well tightened
bolt and nut as an arbor he could chuck in a drill.

Jeff

--
Jeffry Wisnia
(W1BSV + Brass Rat '57 EE)
"Rudeness is the weak man's imitation of strength."

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