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Posted by on September 10, 2006, 7:52 am
I'm starting to think about repaving my asphalt driveway at some point.
While thinking about it, I came up with the following question. If
you were to apply a new course, say 4" on top of what is there, how do
they handle the transition at the garage and street so it remains at
the same height?
On first thought, I figured they could remove what's there for say the
first 6 ft up to the cement garage apron, and use this as a transition
zone. But then there would have to be change in grade starting at
the 6 foot point. This has to be a routing problem, so, what do they
do?
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Posted by on September 10, 2006, 8:29 am
they dig it back enough to get it to work out,but many ive
seen look bad. if you have cracks in your old asphault they will come
right thru on he new,so if you got cracks have the old removed and get a
good rock base under the new.be sure the paving machine mixes the batch
in the hopper as its put down.pavers without the mixer tend to leave a
pretty rocky surface.lucas
http://www.minibite.com/america/malone.htm
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Posted by on September 10, 2006, 8:39 am
> I'm starting to think about repaving my asphalt driveway at some point.
> While thinking about it, I came up with the following question. If
> you were to apply a new course, say 4" on top of what is there, how do
> they handle the transition at the garage and street so it remains at
> the same height?
>
> On first thought, I figured they could remove what's there for say the
> first 6 ft up to the cement garage apron, and use this as a transition
> zone. But then there would have to be change in grade starting at
> the 6 foot point. This has to be a routing problem, so, what do they
> do?
>
Companies that do it <properly> use a small version of those things you see
them using on city streets, where they remove the top layer of asphalt.
(Grinder?) They then fix any problem spots in the substrate, and put a fresh
layer over the top. Now if you have a cheap thin driveway, there may not be
enough material to do that without exposing the gravel pretty much all over.
And those machines are expensive, so small companies that don't ever do big
jobs may not have them. Just adding another layer is almost always a bad
idea. Chuckholes and heaved sections will telegraph right through, since
asphalt is not solid. About the only time just another layer is appropriate
is if orginal driveway was graded wrong, and you have a low spot with
ponding.
Around here, driveway rehabs tend to either just be chip seals, where they
squirt the hot goop on the top and roll in tiny gravel, or total tearouts
and replacement, with regrading as needed. Replacements, often as not, are
concrete, at least for the 30 feet closest to garage. That avoids all those
problems from oil drips and parked cars making dips in the summer.
Like they always say on here, call at least three guys out for a site survey
and an estimate, and go from there. Drive around your neighborhood, and
where you see a fresh driveway, stop and ask who did the work. Ask friends
and coworkers who have had work done. In most areas, one or two names will
keep popping up. Avoid the no-name guy with unmarked trucks.
aem sends....
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Posted by Richard J Kinch on September 12, 2006, 5:29 am
> If
> you were to apply a new course, say 4" on top of what is there, how do
> they handle the transition at the garage and street so it remains at
> the same height?
You can't. Without a tear-out of the old pavement you will have a
feathered edge, birdbaths, and/or a downhill slope into your garage.
Suspect any contractor who tells you otherwise.
Get a written spec and guarantee in your contract for no birdbaths. And
don't pay until you've thoroughly checked the finished work. Have a plan
ready for what you'll do if the job is botched. Most contractors are
experts at getting paid off before you notice problems, and then you're
stuck with inferior work.
A botched asphalt job has negative value. Less than worthless. Correcting
it can require tearing out the whole thing at extra expense, not just a do-
over.
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