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Posted by Laurie on July 1, 2007, 11:04 am
Mike Dobony wrote:
> "Laurie" wrote:
<snipped intro>
> Q1 - there are some cracks over the doorways: must that drywall be
>> cut out and replaced or is there anything effective that will work
>> on approx 8" long 1/8 - 1/16" crack between the doorframe and crown
>> molding? I used some flexible rubbery like spray coating several
>> years ago to finish cracks along a window on a P&B house I sold, but
>> I never saw if it held or not...
>>
>
> I am assuming these cracks are in the corners of the door opening and
> not in the middle. If this is the case the drywall was hung
> improperly and the hangers put a butt joint at or very close to the
> corner instead of breaking in the middle or preferrably away from the
> door (a full sheet across the opening with no joint near or over the
> door). If this is the case the rubbery coating you used might work. The
> preferred method is to put a single sheet of drywall all the way
> across the door opening and up to at least the next stud away from
> the door.
I didn't know that - in the past it's all been corner cracks at windows and
doors, but this one goes right up the middle. It looks like it was a decent
sized one that was plastered over when they smoothed the wall to wallpaper -
and the top layer of the new plaster pulled away - but it doesn't go all the
way through now. I'll try it the easy way and if it doesn't hold pay someone
to do it right. :-)
>> Q2 - there are two corners where there is about 1/8" separation
>> between the two walls the entire height of the wall. How would I
>> best deal with that?
>>
>
> This reinforces the inproper hanging, or in this case, improper
> mudding of the corner. Either the mud was put on too thick or there
> is no joint paper in the corner. Sand it down to the paper and then
> redo it the correct way. They now have inside corner molding. This
> might not be a bad idea for this repair.
This I can do! As long as the house really is done shifting like the SE
says, it ought to hold.
>
>> Q2 - Can I just retexture over the smooth plaster spread over the
>> textured drywall or is there some reason a 3rd layer could be a
>> problem? I intend to paint whenever we're done with this mess.
>>
>
> Unless you are using texturing paint you need to use green or moisture
> resistant dry wall. Either way, a 3rd layer does not sound too good,
> but I have no experince in this area. I hang for a living right now
> and have done standard mudding in the past.
I'll look into texturing paint. Thanks so much for your advice and education
Mike!
Laurie
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