Home Page link

Drywall corners around access door - will this work?

Home| Search | About
Login Password
Register Now! Lost Password?

Home Repair - - If it ain't broken, don't fix it. Otherwise look here. 

Bookmark this page:  YahooMyWeb Yahoo!  Google Google  Windows Live Favorites Windows Live  del.icio.us del.icio.us  digg digg  Add to Netscape Netscape
Subject Author Date
Drywall corners around access door - will this work? the_tool_man 10-24-2008
If you were  Registered and logged in, you could reply and use other advanced thread options
Posted by the_tool_man on October 24, 2008, 4:32 pm
Hi all:

I'm in the latter stages of building a play room in an attic space
above the garage of my house. It is built into a gabled roof, having
4-foot tall kneewalls along the sides of the room. The space behind
the kneewalls will be used for storage, so I will install access doors
into the walls. I would like for these doors to be nearly invisible
when closed, so I won't be casing them as a conventional opening.

I thought about using a drywall return with metal corner bead, and
making a flush plywood door painted the same color as the wall.
However, I am concerned that the enevitable bumps when moving items
through the opening will eventually bend the corner bead and be
difficult to repair. I wonder if I could make a wooden frame around
the opening flush with the drywall surface and tape over the wood and
mud it like a drywall seam. If it gets dinged, it would be an easier
repair, and I could use those fancy Soss invisible hinges for the door
(they have to be mortised into the jamb). I am concerned that the
drywall-to-wood joint would experience seasonal movement and crack.
Will this work? Any alternatives?

Thanks in advance,
John.

Posted by John Grabowski on October 24, 2008, 5:19 pm

> Hi all:
>
> I'm in the latter stages of building a play room in an attic space
> above the garage of my house. It is built into a gabled roof, having
> 4-foot tall kneewalls along the sides of the room. The space behind
> the kneewalls will be used for storage, so I will install access doors
> into the walls. I would like for these doors to be nearly invisible
> when closed, so I won't be casing them as a conventional opening.
>
> I thought about using a drywall return with metal corner bead, and
> making a flush plywood door painted the same color as the wall.
> However, I am concerned that the enevitable bumps when moving items
> through the opening will eventually bend the corner bead and be
> difficult to repair. I wonder if I could make a wooden frame around
> the opening flush with the drywall surface and tape over the wood and
> mud it like a drywall seam. If it gets dinged, it would be an easier
> repair, and I could use those fancy Soss invisible hinges for the door
> (they have to be mortised into the jamb). I am concerned that the
> drywall-to-wood joint would experience seasonal movement and crack.
> Will this work? Any alternatives?
>
> Thanks in advance,
> John.


John I did something similar. Instead of the corner bead I used metal J
bead to finish off the edges of the drywall. I then applied joint compound
over the bead to even it out and make it invisible. It's been fine for
about eight years.

I bought a set of Soss hinges, but the ones I got need to go into a very
thick door. I just made a plywood door with 1" x 3" around the back side and
skim coated it. I used several small cabinet hinges and the hinge pins are
not that visible.

Make your frame out of double 2" x 4"s all around and it won't shift.

I put a small block of wood on the upper and lower corner and put 1/4-20 Tee
nuts on them. I countersunk two holes on the door and use 1/4-20 flat head
bolts to keep it closed. To get in you need to use a screwdriver which
discourages kids. I also used weather-stripped molding on the back side to
keep air from passing through easily.


Posted by SteveBell on October 24, 2008, 6:25 pm
the_tool_man wrote:

> Hi all:
>
> I'm in the latter stages of building a play room in an attic space
> above the garage of my house. It is built into a gabled roof, having
> 4-foot tall kneewalls along the sides of the room. The space behind
> the kneewalls will be used for storage, so I will install access doors
> into the walls. I would like for these doors to be nearly invisible
> when closed, so I won't be casing them as a conventional opening.
>
> I thought about using a drywall return with metal corner bead, and
> making a flush plywood door painted the same color as the wall.
> However, I am concerned that the enevitable bumps when moving items
> through the opening will eventually bend the corner bead and be
> difficult to repair. I wonder if I could make a wooden frame around
> the opening flush with the drywall surface and tape over the wood and
> mud it like a drywall seam. If it gets dinged, it would be an easier
> repair, and I could use those fancy Soss invisible hinges for the door
> (they have to be mortised into the jamb). I am concerned that the
> drywall-to-wood joint would experience seasonal movement and crack.
> Will this work? Any alternatives?

I recommend a finish other than wallboard. If you use car siding or
beadboard, you can make a _truly_ invisible door. The latches can be
the magnetic type seen on glass doors.

--
Steve Bell
New Life Home Improvement
Arlington, TX

Posted by benick on October 24, 2008, 10:43 pm

> Hi all:
>
> I'm in the latter stages of building a play room in an attic space
> above the garage of my house. It is built into a gabled roof, having
> 4-foot tall kneewalls along the sides of the room. The space behind
> the kneewalls will be used for storage, so I will install access doors
> into the walls. I would like for these doors to be nearly invisible
> when closed, so I won't be casing them as a conventional opening.
>
> I thought about using a drywall return with metal corner bead, and
> making a flush plywood door painted the same color as the wall.
> However, I am concerned that the enevitable bumps when moving items
> through the opening will eventually bend the corner bead and be
> difficult to repair. I wonder if I could make a wooden frame around
> the opening flush with the drywall surface and tape over the wood and
> mud it like a drywall seam. If it gets dinged, it would be an easier
> repair, and I could use those fancy Soss invisible hinges for the door
> (they have to be mortised into the jamb). I am concerned that the
> drywall-to-wood joint would experience seasonal movement and crack.
> Will this work? Any alternatives?
>
> Thanks in advance,
> John.

Yes the drywall to wood joint WILL crack. Instead I would put L Bead around
trim and caulk the joint....However I like the J Bead on the drywall and
flush plywood door you mentioned first unless it was going to be used for a
closet and opened every day ....Good luck.....


Similar ThreadsPosted
Question about rigid inside drywall corners and plain tape corners December 25, 2006, 12:38 am
drywall corners opening up March 4, 2006, 9:55 am
Access Door in Wall January 16, 2006, 4:08 pm
Patching drywall from electrical work December 19, 2005, 8:20 pm
Turning a door into a window and building a small deck for direct backyard access-which to do first? October 21, 2007, 11:45 pm
Foundation Cracked at Corners January 17, 2007, 11:57 am
Baseboard bullnose corners February 16, 2008, 4:26 pm
Making stealth corners August 4, 2008, 8:26 pm
How to Tell If a Replacement Door Will "Work" March 29, 2006, 5:55 pm
How do garage door sensors work ? November 28, 2006, 11:32 pm

Contact Us | Privacy Policy

XML SitemapXML Sitemap