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Drywall error jim 01-14-2008
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Posted by jim on January 14, 2008, 6:55 pm
Son - in - law (ex to be) decided to do this old guy a favor and
drywall the cottage mud room. Left the plastering / mud to be. Only
problem is that in several joins he did NOT butt the tapered edges
together. Thus there is no "groove" in which to fill with mud and
feather out for the smooth finish. Any way to remediate this other
than rip it out?

Posted by Calab on January 14, 2008, 7:16 pm

> Son - in - law (ex to be) decided to do this old guy a favor and
> drywall the cottage mud room. Left the plastering / mud to be. Only
> problem is that in several joins he did NOT butt the tapered edges
> together. Thus there is no "groove" in which to fill with mud and
> feather out for the smooth finish. Any way to remediate this other
> than rip it out?

?!?!?!

You'll always have some joints that aren't depressed. You just mud and tape
then as usual. It just means you'll have to mud a lot wider to make the
joint less visible.



Posted by Mark Witczak on January 14, 2008, 8:21 pm
I agree. There's nothing wrong with the way it was put up. Just mud a
little wider. No big deal.

Calab wrote:
>> Son - in - law (ex to be) decided to do this old guy a favor and
>> drywall the cottage mud room. Left the plastering / mud to be. Only
>> problem is that in several joins he did NOT butt the tapered edges
>> together. Thus there is no "groove" in which to fill with mud and
>> feather out for the smooth finish. Any way to remediate this other
>> than rip it out?
>
> ?!?!?!
>
> You'll always have some joints that aren't depressed. You just mud and tape
> then as usual. It just means you'll have to mud a lot wider to make the
> joint less visible.
>
>

Posted by Joe on January 14, 2008, 7:26 pm
> Son - in - law (ex to be) decided to do this old guy a favor and
> drywall the cottage mud room. Left the plastering / mud to be. Only
> problem is that in several joins he did NOT butt the tapered edges
> together. Thus there is no "groove" in which to fill with mud and
> feather out for the smooth finish. Any way to remediate this other
> than rip it out?

Yes, there is. It's messy, but effective. Simply use a small angle
grinder and cut your own groove. Some screws/nails may have to be set
in different locations, obviously. Downside is the dust, so a good
shop vac is essential, and curtaining off the area. But you would do
some of that anyway for the joint work. It helps a ton to use a
Magnasand with the shop vac for dust control, and the screen sander
that comes with it makes the job really fly. Put a squirt of Pam non-
stick spray in the Magnasand trap to keep the foaming under control.
For a small room like yours the joint prep shouldn't take over 45
minutes or so. The final mud and sand will then be pretty quick
because you won't have to feather out a foot or so on each side.
The alternative is to just slop on the mud, feather out a bunch, sand,
mud, sand, etc. Or total rip out, as you noted. Your call, and good
luck.

Joe

Posted by Art Todesco on January 14, 2008, 10:15 pm
Joe wrote:
>> Son - in - law (ex to be) decided to do this old guy a favor and
>> drywall the cottage mud room. Left the plastering / mud to be. Only
>> problem is that in several joins he did NOT butt the tapered edges
>> together. Thus there is no "groove" in which to fill with mud and
>> feather out for the smooth finish. Any way to remediate this other
>> than rip it out?
>
> Yes, there is. It's messy, but effective. Simply use a small angle
> grinder and cut your own groove. Some screws/nails may have to be set
> in different locations, obviously. Downside is the dust, so a good
> shop vac is essential, and curtaining off the area. But you would do
> some of that anyway for the joint work. It helps a ton to use a
> Magnasand with the shop vac for dust control, and the screen sander
> that comes with it makes the job really fly. Put a squirt of Pam non-
> stick spray in the Magnasand trap to keep the foaming under control.
> For a small room like yours the joint prep shouldn't take over 45
> minutes or so. The final mud and sand will then be pretty quick
> because you won't have to feather out a foot or so on each side.
> The alternative is to just slop on the mud, feather out a bunch, sand,
> mud, sand, etc. Or total rip out, as you noted. Your call, and good
> luck.
>
> Joe
I agree there is nothing wrong with just
taping it and widening the mud a bit.
However, I have, on occasion, done the
following: Using a utility knive (box
cutter type) I cut the surface paper at
an angle away from the joint on both
piece of drywall. Then, the paper can
be pealed off. This give a depression
for the new tape and mud. Not as messy
as grinding!

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