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Posted by Jack on January 30, 2007, 8:57 am
I am installing sheetrock vertically. Where the tapered seams meet, they
are falling on the center of the studs. When I attempt to screw down the
sheetrock at the seams, I am getting blowouts. Is there some sort of trick
or recommendation you have used to prevent this, other than using blocking?
I am trying to stay as far away from the edge as possible, but then I miss
the stud.
Thanks.
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Posted by Doug Miller on January 30, 2007, 9:32 am
>I am installing sheetrock vertically. Where the tapered seams meet, they
>are falling on the center of the studs. When I attempt to screw down the
>sheetrock at the seams, I am getting blowouts. Is there some sort of trick
>or recommendation you have used to prevent this, other than using blocking?
Don't tighten the screw down so hard.
--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)
It's time to throw all their damned tea in the harbor again.
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Posted by Dean on January 30, 2007, 10:17 am
On Jan 30, 8:32 am, spamb...@milmac.com (Doug Miller) wrote:
> >I am installing sheetrock vertically. Where the tapered seams meet, they
> >are falling on the center of the studs. When I attempt to screw down the
> >sheetrock at the seams, I am getting blowouts. Is there some sort of trick
> >or recommendation you have used to prevent this, other than using
blocking?Don't tighten the screw down so hard.
>
> --
> Regards,
> Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)
>
> It's time to throw all their damned tea in the harbor again.
It's natural to want to angle the screws toward the center of the
stud but that pushes the compressed and brittle edge away from the
rest of the tapered part..try going straight in,,as in 90degree
angle..Leaving the screw a tad bit less than recessed (as Doug
stated)will help too but just a tad bit or it will interfere with
taping..If all else fails You can use const adhesive and only enough
screws to hold it to the studs,,the glue can be spotted every 12" or
so or aplied in a small continuous bead(or any combo),,drywall nails
may cause less "blowouts" too,,the field(center studs behind sheet)can
still be screwed normally..Also when screwing dw the most
screws(normal conditions)should be recessed without ripping the
paper,,this gives the best strength and longer lasting good
results..Screws that rip the paper do'nt need to be removed,,just add
one an inch away,,they can both be mudded as one at each coat..
Dean
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Posted by Joe on January 30, 2007, 10:18 am
> I am installing sheetrock vertically. Where the tapered seams meet, they
> are falling on the center of the studs. When I attempt to screw down the
> sheetrock at the seams, I am getting blowouts. Is there some sort of trick
> or recommendation you have used to prevent this, other than using blocking?
> I am trying to stay as far away from the edge as possible, but then I miss
> the stud.
> Thanks.
Are you using real drywall screws? The common type is Phillips head
and the drivers are the shrouded type that allows the bit to cam out
when when the screw is flush with the surface. Using a cordless driver
with these and the torque setting less than max ought to solve your
problem, Good luck.
Joe
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Posted by Eigenvector on January 30, 2007, 8:18 pm
>
>
>> I am installing sheetrock vertically. Where the tapered seams meet, they
>> are falling on the center of the studs. When I attempt to screw down the
>> sheetrock at the seams, I am getting blowouts. Is there some sort of
>> trick
>> or recommendation you have used to prevent this, other than using
>> blocking?
>> I am trying to stay as far away from the edge as possible, but then I
>> miss
>> the stud.
>> Thanks.
>
> Are you using real drywall screws? The common type is Phillips head
> and the drivers are the shrouded type that allows the bit to cam out
> when when the screw is flush with the surface. Using a cordless driver
> with these and the torque setting less than max ought to solve your
> problem, Good luck.
>
> Joe
>
I've found through my own exeriences that using the dimpler takes quite a
bit of finesse when installing drywall. The natural tendency is to try to
tighten it down like you would any other wood joint, but really it doesn't
take much to get the drywall tight. I've also found that the dimplers don't
work like they're advertised and in fact often times won't cam back until
it's too late.
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