If you were Registered and logged in, you could reply and use other advanced thread options
|
Posted by bowgus on December 26, 2006, 11:56 am
> The channels are designed to span 24" max, not 48" - so they'll sag too.
>
> I thought of a suspended drywall ceiling, but the main runners couldn't
> handle 48" spans either.
Sure, but you could use wire ... well, maybe something like steel
coathanger "hangers" ... at the midpoint (24") attached to the subfloor
above. I have suspended ceiling in part of my basement (that ugly 2' x
4' fiberglass stuff ... was a rush job ... I've got to strap (1x3s) and
put in drywall one of these days). It's suspended using steel wire ...
multiple loops.
|
|
Posted by Eigenvector on December 26, 2006, 8:43 pm
>
>
>> The channels are designed to span 24" max, not 48" - so they'll sag too.
>>
>> I thought of a suspended drywall ceiling, but the main runners couldn't
>> handle 48" spans either.
>
> Sure, but you could use wire ... well, maybe something like steel
> coathanger "hangers" ... at the midpoint (24") attached to the subfloor
> above. I have suspended ceiling in part of my basement (that ugly 2' x
> 4' fiberglass stuff ... was a rush job ... I've got to strap (1x3s) and
> put in drywall one of these days). It's suspended using steel wire ...
> multiple loops.
>
Sounds like its getting too complicated for a simple solution job. Hanging
2x4's between the joists using nails is so much more simple and elegant than
messing around with wire hangers, false ceilings (I can't stand false
ceilings), or anything else.
I had the solution when I wrote the question, but sometimes you block out
that solution in your mind when you want to believe a simpler solution
exists - in some far off mythical plane.
|
|
Posted by HerHusband on December 26, 2006, 11:14 am
> I have ceiling joists that are 48" apart
> installing 2x4's between the studs isn't my idea of a fun time,
Could you screw 1/2" drywall to the subfloor "between" the beams? Then
either wrap each beam with drywall, or wrap them with lumber and stain
(assuming the beams aren't attractive enough to leave exposed). Accent
the beams instead of hiding them. Just watch the length of the screws so
you don't have screws coming up through the floor. :) Of course, this
approach would make it difficult to run wiring, piping, insulation, etc.
Alternatively, how far do the beams span? Maybe you could add a joist or
two "parallel" to the beams instead of short segments between beams. The
beams support the floor, so the new joists only need to be sized like
ceiling joists to hold up the drywall. So, depending on the span, you
could probably use a single 2x4 or 2x6 between the beams (I'd probably
opt for two joists for a 16" OC spacing).
> unless I'm a demon for measurements.
If you must run 2x4 blocking between the beams, mark out 16" spacing
along the two end beams, then snap chalk lines across the bottoms of the
beams so you'll know where the blocking needs to go.
Then take a few measurements at various places to find out what the
largest distance is. Then use a power miter saw and a stop block to cut
several blocks an inch or so longer than the longest you'll need.
Now grab a handful of the blocks, and go to one of the bays between the
beams. Hold one end of the block against the side of one beam, and mark
the exact length you'll need to cut the block. Write a number 1 on this
block, and a number one on the side of the beam so you know where this
block belongs.
Move to the next chalkline, and repeat the procedure, this time writing 2
on the block and beam. Repeat for the rest of the bay.
Take the blocks back to the miter saw and cut them all to the lengths you
marked.
Now you should have blocks ready to nail up in that bay. They should be a
snug fit, so tap them in with a hammer, centering over the chalkline. You
can toenail them in by hand if you don't have an air nailer, or use a
screwgun and 3" deck screws.
By marking the blocks in position, you'll avoid measuring errors and can
accomodate fluctuations in the spacing between the beams.
You can cut the blocks with a circular saw or even a handsaw if you don't
have a power miter saw. But this sounds like a good excuse to buy a new
toy. :) Worst case, you could probably rent a miter saw from a tool
rental store.
Have fun!
Anthony
|
Page 5 of 5 << first < 1 2 3
| Similar Threads | Posted | | Drywall | March 7, 2006, 3:25 pm |
| drywall job | July 17, 2006, 4:14 pm |
| how much drywall mud? | September 15, 2006, 8:33 am |
| how do i fix drywall???? | January 9, 2007, 2:25 pm |
| drywall | June 20, 2007, 5:51 am |
| drywall vs OSB | August 6, 2007, 10:39 pm |
| repair drywall | February 6, 2005, 12:07 pm |
| Re: Putting up drywall | July 16, 2008, 4:16 pm |
| Smoothing old drywall | July 9, 2005, 8:53 pm |
| Drywall repair | July 13, 2005, 6:08 pm |
|
|
Yahoo! 
Google 
Windows Live 
del.icio.us 
digg 
Netscape 
XML Sitemap