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Posted by komobu on October 14, 2006, 4:34 am
Hi;
I am getting ready to move back into my home after being overseas for a
few years. In1985 the house had a master bedroom addition that is quite
beautiful. However, the original owner evidently cut corners on the
drywall. There are several blisters appearing. There are also rust
spots and waves in the ceiling. It was put up with nails and many have
came loose. There are also previous repair attempts where you can see
the joint compound built up from the panels,and then painted over.
I am wondering about the best way to fix this. The good thing is the
house will be empty while I work. I am very seriously considering
gutting all the drywall and starting over from scratch. I am very
confident that I can do the rough install and I will use screws, not
nails.
I am worried about the finishing taping and mudding. I dont want any
cracks to appear 6 months later. I am wondering if I would be better
off having it done by a pro.
I am curious if there are any profesional tools that I could rent. What
I would really like, is someway to spray drywall mud on the walls and
have a smooth surface that I could paint. I dont want any texture look.
If this type of thing is available, I could just peel off the blisters,
and install screws all over the place and spray the mud. I guess what I
would be looking for is like a veneer of mud 1/8 inch thick over
everything.
Any advice or reccomendations would be appreciated
Pat
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Posted by glassartist on October 14, 2006, 5:20 am
Pat,
To me the real test of how professional a sheetrocker is can be determined
by a nice smooth finish. Smooth is the hardest of all finishes. Think of
it this way... when something is smooth any break in that is noticeable.
If smooth is what you want get out your phone book and get some bids or
call your friends for suggestions on tradesmen.
I have rentals and do a lot of work myself. I do a finish that is a
modified "knock down". This hides my weaknesses in finishing. The
sheetrock is hung well. Taping and mudding takes some time to get a good
technique but can be done. But then all the sheetrock should have a skim
coat and then be sanded and another coat, etc. This is what gives the
smooth nice look you want. In my rentals I don't have the time, or the
skill, to do smooth; so I usually have a slight texture.
I am pleased with my skills and the jobs I have done over the last thirty
years, but to be truthful, I usually don't need smooth.
IF you decide to try it... you didn't say how high your ceilings are...
mine are 9.5'. So I rent a sheetrock lifter. It really helps me. I use it
on ceilings and have used it on some walls. To cut down on seams, I'd
layout the job with the largest sheets of sheetrock that will work. So
instead of 4 x 8, I'd get 4 x 12, etc. Every seam that doesn't have to be
there is one more smooth place on the wall that doesn't need mudding. You
didn't say anything about your ceiling joists or studs, but if they are
out of square/alignment that can also affect the look you seek. Other
tools are not too expensive: trowels, utility knife, sheetrock
square/straight edge, electric drill to screw in screws, chalkline for
marking studs, keyhole saw to cut out areas around outlets, tape measure,
and if you decide to texture there are hoppers for spraying mud onto the
walls to give texture.
And lastly the blistering should be investigated. That is not normal. Rust
would indicate to me moisture. Perhaps you have a leak in the roof? Is
there a floor above this room? Perhaps plumbing... water is sneaky and can
travel a long way from where the problem is. I once had ants in a rental.
The next made the ceiling soft and it all had to be redone. Animals, like
squirrels, mice, birds, etc. can also cause moisture that can cause
problems on sheetrock.
If your house is empty, be sure to keep it warm now that we are entering
the colder months. It will help to keep your materials dry and not
damp-ish and will protect the unused home from issues that can arise from
lack of use. One other thing... as an older woman, I don't have the
strength that many a young fella has, so I opt for "slight of hand
tricks", if you will. I do things differently than some may expect. I have
hung sheetrock horizontally instead of upright. If the ceiling is eight
feet or less you have just the ceiling and center seam on each wall. And
the seam is right where you can work it. Most furniture is three or four
feet high and when in the room and next to the wall you rarely notice the
seam. So my walls look quite nice. Besides if you're looking for seams you
are probably looking vertically and you rarely see mine running that
direction. Good luck.
____________
KaCe
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Posted by komobu on October 14, 2006, 5:48 am
Thanks for the reply, I found it quite informative. My ceilings are 8
foot, but I also have a vaulted skylight in the Master Bedroom and in
the Master Bath. The blistering of the tape is in the Master Bath. So
moisture is a constant from the shower steam.
I had saw in the newsgroup about paintable wallpaper. That maybe my
best option. I could probably screw everything in place, and put a
couple thin coats of mud and then the paper. Then paint.
If you are interested and have the time, I could email you some pics so
you will see what I am talking about.
Thanks Again
Pat
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Posted by HeyBub on October 14, 2006, 9:12 am
komobu wrote:
> Thanks for the reply, I found it quite informative. My ceilings are 8
> foot, but I also have a vaulted skylight in the Master Bedroom and in
> the Master Bath. The blistering of the tape is in the Master Bath. So
> moisture is a constant from the shower steam.
>
> I had saw in the newsgroup about paintable wallpaper. That maybe my
> best option. I could probably screw everything in place, and put a
> couple thin coats of mud and then the paper. Then paint.
>
> If you are interested and have the time, I could email you some pics
> so you will see what I am talking about.
If you're going to wallpaper, why sheetrock? Remember, wallpaper was
originally glued to cheesecloth attached to furring strips.
I'd use cheap paneling. Much easier to work with than sheetrock.
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Posted by DanG on October 14, 2006, 9:51 am
If you have enough steam and moisture in the bathroom to blister
the tape and bed, you better spend more of your money on venting.
Hard plaster can take that kind of moisture better for a while,
but it too can fail.
If your master bedroom is in good repair other than finish type
problems, hire a good taper. He (boy, is that sexist-might be a
woman) can make the walls smooth, but then, so can you with enough
time and talent. You might be able to find someone to do veneer
plaster in your area, it can be skimmed on top of what you have.
Venetian plaster is all the rage, but probably pricey.
______________________________
Keep the whole world singing . . . .
DanG (remove the sevens)
dgriff237@7cox.net
> Thanks for the reply, I found it quite informative. My ceilings
> are 8
> foot, but I also have a vaulted skylight in the Master Bedroom
> and in
> the Master Bath. The blistering of the tape is in the Master
> Bath. So
> moisture is a constant from the shower steam.
>
> I had saw in the newsgroup about paintable wallpaper. That maybe
> my
> best option. I could probably screw everything in place, and put
> a
> couple thin coats of mud and then the paper. Then paint.
>
> If you are interested and have the time, I could email you some
> pics so
> you will see what I am talking about.
>
> Thanks Again
> Pat
>
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