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Posted by Roy Starrin on April 11, 2007, 9:37 am
Have a 25 year old dark-stained cedar, house addition which is need of
some sprucing up as the original factory installed stain on the T-111
has weathered badly and unevenly (due varying weather/sun exposure).
Paint contractor proposes low pressure wash, followed by bleaching,
wait a few days and then stain with Duron MaxWood semi transparent
Deck and Siding stain. Heard of Duron, never of MaxWood. Have
googled, found info, but not found any opinions/experience. Any
experience/opinions out there.
BTW he wants to also wash the adjacent 720' weather gray deck and put
on linseed oil. Am dubious about linseed oil. All the deck sealers I
have tried don't last long here close to the coast. May just wash and
leave it.
My current thoughts are let him wash deck and room, and bleach the
room, and go away. Then I will try semi-transparent stain in a couple
of locations on room, and if they don't come out equal, will use a
solid stain over the entire room. Am in my 70s, but it's a one-story
room and figure I can do the staining. Will pcik from one of the
favorites, I.e. Seikens, Behr, Olympic, after further review of the
many posts about this.
Any thoughts???
Never too old to learn
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Posted by Edwin Pawlowski on April 11, 2007, 10:55 am
> BTW he wants to also wash the adjacent 720' weather gray deck and put
> on linseed oil. Am dubious about linseed oil. All the deck sealers I
> have tried don't last long here close to the coast. May just wash and
> leave it.
Northing lasts a long time, but to put nothing sees rather silly also. What
is the deck made from? That would guide me to a choice of coatings, Penofin
Oil being first choice for most decks. Easy to apply and will last at least
a year or two.
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Posted by Paul on April 11, 2007, 11:39 am
> > BTW he wants to also wash the adjacent 720' weather gray deck and put
> > on linseed oil. Am dubious about linseed oil. All the deck sealers I
> > have tried don't last long here close to the coast. May just wash and
> > leave it.
>
> Northing lasts a long time, but to put nothing sees rather silly also. What
> is the deck made from? That would guide me to a choice of coatings, Penofin
> Oil being first choice for most decks. Easy to apply and will last at least
> a year or two.
In my experience your better off with a permeating oil that you can re-
apply every few years. Stain isn't like this - you need to strip off
the old (whatever hasn't come off already) before you re-apply.
Stains last longer if they are not transparent at all. I've had a bit
of history with Behr stain and advise you to RUN not walk away from
that brand.
I've used linseed oil on my balcony boxes & if this is any indication
I'd count to re-applying ever other year. Looks VERY nice though.
Standard disclaimer - linseed oil soaked rags really do burst into
flame so be careful.
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Posted by Roy Starrin on April 11, 2007, 2:31 pm
wrote:
>
>> BTW he wants to also wash the adjacent 720' weather gray deck and put
>> on linseed oil. Am dubious about linseed oil. All the deck sealers I
>> have tried don't last long here close to the coast. May just wash and
>> leave it.
>
>Northing lasts a long time, but to put nothing sees rather silly also. What
>is the deck made from? That would guide me to a choice of coatings, Penofin
>Oil being first choice for most decks. Easy to apply and will last at least
>a year or two.
Standard old 5/4 6" pressure treated pine
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Posted by mm on April 11, 2007, 11:57 am
wrote:
>Have a 25 year old dark-stained cedar, house addition which is need of
>some sprucing up as the original factory installed stain on the T-111
>has weathered badly and unevenly (due varying weather/sun exposure).
>Paint contractor proposes low pressure wash, followed by bleaching,
>wait a few days and then stain with Duron MaxWood semi transparent
>Deck and Siding stain. Heard of Duron, never of MaxWood. Have
>googled, found info, but not found any opinions/experience. Any
>experience/opinions out there.
I did my house with Duron MaxWood latex stain. I don't remember the
words Deck and Siding, but they may be on the can. I can go downstairs
and check if you want me too. I think it says semi-transparent, and I
can check that too if you want.
On t1-11 (sp?)
I was very satisified.
My color varies from year to year as they rename colors or discontinue
colors and come up with ones almost the same. I take the store's
recommendation of what the current color is, and they are always
close. 3 colors total i think, I have either the cans or labels from
all the colors, but they are roughtly Walnut? Brown, Russet Brown, and
Mahogany (which didn't have the red that some mahogany has)
My house is 28 years old and when I bought it 24 years ago, Duron
paints were the only ones permitted by the HOA. All the houses here,
109, were in one of two colors, and the other color, Sunrise Gold it
might have been, was hard to match, especially for the people who were
never told about Duron. Our HOA didn't do a good job on that afaic.
(This is probably the reason newer n'hoods have different colors for
every house. So one negligent, ignorant, or recalcitrant owner can't
mess up the whole row.)
But the brown houses, 80% of them, got the same color, and still look
good.
You mention cedar but you don't say what color you are going for.
Cedar? ?? Bleaching it is used when one is changing to a lighter
color, isn't it?
I didn't do anything to prepare the wood -- I didn't wash it** and I
certainly diddn't bleach it -- and I don't think I suffered for it.
I was using the exact same color for a couple walls, and I couldn't
even see the borderline between old and new coverage, except that
coverage was complete. I haven't seen any peeling, which I think
must have something to do with it being a stain and not a paint, but I
really don't understand the whole thing. There is a lot of pigment in
those cans.
**If there had been bird doodoo on it, I guess I would have spot
washed that off. I did use a brush, probably a good brass brush meant
for clothes (that I never really used for clothes, though I easily
cleaned afterwards), to removed the drippings from 3 or 4 carpenter
bees I had had in the fascia?, but I did that when I patched those
holes, not just before painting.
(I also painted the electric meter box, which had been grey, with the
Duron stain, and although it was hard to get rid of brush strokes, it
looks darn good in that it matches the house, and gets rid of the grey
which didn't match anything but other electric boxes) And I painted my
AC condenser with some dark brown auto spray paint from a car I didn't
have anymore/
>BTW he wants to also wash the adjacent 720' weather gray deck and put
>on linseed oil. Am dubious about linseed oil. All the deck sealers I
>have tried don't last long here close to the coast. May just wash and
>leave it.
>My current thoughts are let him wash deck and room, and bleach the
>room, and go away. Then I will try semi-transparent stain in a couple
>of locations on room, and if they don't come out equal, will use a
>solid stain over the entire room. Am in my 70s, but it's a one-story
>room and figure I can do the staining.
You keep saying room. Are we talking about the inside or the outside
of the house?
> Will pcik from one of the
>favorites, I.e. Seikens, Behr, Olympic, after further review of the
>many posts about this.
>Any thoughts???
> Never too old to learn
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