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Electric BBQ breaks GFI 20 Amp breaker yet works fine with non-GFI breaker.

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Electric BBQ breaks GFI 20 Amp breaker yet works fine with non-GFI breaker. BoyntonStu 05-25-2007
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Posted by on May 25, 2007, 2:18 pm
> A 1650 Watt element will go on momentarily but then causes the 20 Amp
> GFI to break.
>
> I tried it on 2 different GFI breakers.
>
> When plugged into a non-GFI circuit, it works fine.
>
> There are a few possibilities that my meager mind considered:
>
> 1> There is some current in the neutral leg. Multimeter does not
> show anything.

There better be current in the neutral and it better be equal to the
current in the hot, or the GFCI will trip.


>
> 2> Buy a higher Amp GFI.

Unless there are other loads on the GFCI, it's not tripping because of
over current. The heater is well below the limit.



>
> 3> The GFI is more sensitive to a load near its 20 Amp rating.
> 1650Watts/(20 x 115)
>
> 4> And the no-no answer, replace the GFI with a non-GFI breaker.
>
> Any suggestions?


Look for a partial short to ground somewhere.


Posted by Doug Miller on May 25, 2007, 2:53 pm
>A 1650 Watt element will go on momentarily but then causes the 20 Amp
>GFI to break.
>
>I tried it on 2 different GFI breakers.
>
>When plugged into a non-GFI circuit, it works fine.

The obvious conclusion is that there is a ground fault somewhere in the
machine.
>
>
>There are a few possibilities that my meager mind considered:
>
>1> There is some current in the neutral leg. Multimeter does not
>show anything.

Then you're not measuring correctly. There had better be exactly the same
current in the neutral leg as there is in the hot leg.
>
>2> Buy a higher Amp GFI.

That will make no difference. GFIs trip at fault currents of about 5mA.
>
>3> The GFI is more sensitive to a load near its 20 Amp rating.
>1650Watts/(20 x 115)

Doubtful, but in any event you're not anywhere near 20A with a 1650W device on
a 120V circuit. 1650W / 120V = 13.75A.
>
>4> And the no-no answer, replace the GFI with a non-GFI breaker.

You're right, that's wrong. :-)
>
>Any suggestions?
>
Find the ground fault and fix it -- or, if the unit is still under warranty,
return it to the retailer for exchange or refund.

--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)

It's time to throw all their damned tea in the harbor again.

Posted by Tim Smith on May 25, 2007, 3:14 pm
>>When plugged into a non-GFI circuit, it works fine.
>
> The obvious conclusion is that there is a ground fault somewhere in the
> machine.
>>
>>
>>There are a few possibilities that my meager mind considered:
>>
>>1> There is some current in the neutral leg. Multimeter does not
>>show anything.
>
> Then you're not measuring correctly. There had better be exactly the same
> current in the neutral leg as there is in the hot leg.

But if there was exactly the same current in the neutral as hot, then
the GFCI wouldn't be tripping...so maybe he IS measuring correctly! :-)

Posted by Doug Miller on May 25, 2007, 3:49 pm
>>>When plugged into a non-GFI circuit, it works fine.
>>
>> The obvious conclusion is that there is a ground fault somewhere in the
>> machine.
>>>
>>>
>>>There are a few possibilities that my meager mind considered:
>>>
>>>1> There is some current in the neutral leg. Multimeter does not
>>>show anything.
>>
>> Then you're not measuring correctly. There had better be exactly the same
>> current in the neutral leg as there is in the hot leg.
>
>But if there was exactly the same current in the neutral as hot, then
>the GFCI wouldn't be tripping...so maybe he IS measuring correctly! :-)

:-)

--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)

It's time to throw all their damned tea in the harbor again.

Posted by Ralph Mowery on May 25, 2007, 4:05 pm

>>>When plugged into a non-GFI circuit, it works fine.
>>
>> The obvious conclusion is that there is a ground fault somewhere in the
>> machine.
>>>
>>>
>>>There are a few possibilities that my meager mind considered:
>>>
>>>1> There is some current in the neutral leg. Multimeter does not
>>>show anything.
>>
>> Then you're not measuring correctly. There had better be exactly the same
>> current in the neutral leg as there is in the hot leg.
>
> But if there was exactly the same current in the neutral as hot, then
> the GFCI wouldn't be tripping...so maybe he IS measuring correctly! :-)

It is doubtful that he has a meter that will detect 5 to 10 ma differance in
a 14 amp circuit.
That is all it takes to trip a GFCI.



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