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Electric Range Volt Problems ahaight 03-21-2007
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Posted by on March 21, 2007, 1:17 pm


I recently turned on the stove on my electric range and heard a quiet
crackling noise. The range still gets electricity because the clock,
burner-on light, and oven light all work. The stove and oven will no
longer heat up, though. I contacted an appliance repair man who
measured the volts and said there is supposed to be 220V going into an
electric range and in my case, there is only 110V. He said the problem
is probably not with the stove/oven---and we can't even check to see
if there is a problem because there's not enough power to isolate the
problem to the range---but with electric supply. I have a breaker box
in the basement that I've reset to no quick solution.

Can anyone speculate as to why, all of the sudden, the range (or
rather, the outlet the range plugs into) is not receiving the
appropriate volts. Keep it simple for me if possible; I clearly am a
beginner at understanding home electric wiring.


Posted by Edwin Pawlowski on March 21, 2007, 3:21 pm



>I recently turned on the stove on my electric range and heard a quiet
> crackling noise. The range still gets electricity because the clock,
> burner-on light, and oven light all work. The stove and oven will no
> longer heat up, though. I contacted an appliance repair man who
> measured the volts and said there is supposed to be 220V going into an
> electric range and in my case, there is only 110V. He said the problem
> is probably not with the stove/oven---and we can't even check to see
> if there is a problem because there's not enough power to isolate the
> problem to the range---but with electric supply. I have a breaker box
> in the basement that I've reset to no quick solution.
>
> Can anyone speculate as to why, all of the sudden, the range (or
> rather, the outlet the range plugs into) is not receiving the
> appropriate volts. Keep it simple for me if possible; I clearly am a
> beginner at understanding home electric wiring.
>

How did he test? You actually have two feeds of 110 volts. It is possible
that one leg is dropped out. First thing I'd check is the circuit inside
the breaker box. There are two wires that feed the 220 line. I'd check to
be sure each one had 110. Then I'd check the ground.



Posted by mm on March 21, 2007, 4:21 pm


On 21 Mar 2007 12:46:20 -0700, ahaight@gmail.com wrote:

>Not sure how he tested. He pulled the range out from the wall and
>hooked something up to the back of it. He said there was not 220V
>going into the unit.

iF HE was an electrician, did he offer to fix it? How much was he
going to charge? What did he say needed to be done?

I have a breaker box
>> > in the basement that I've reset to no quick solution.

Was it obviously tripped before you reset it? Or are you just saying
that you turned it off and on to be sure? That's a good idea, but I'd
still like to know if it was clearly tripped before you reset it.



>>
>>
>>
>>
>> >I recently turned on the stove on my electric range and heard a quiet
>> > crackling noise. The range still gets electricity because the clock,
>> > burner-on light, and oven light all work. The stove and oven will no
>> > longer heat up, though. I contacted an appliance repair man who
>> > measured the volts and said there is supposed to be 220V going into an
>> > electric range and in my case, there is only 110V. He said the problem
>> > is probably not with the stove/oven---and we can't even check to see
>> > if there is a problem because there's not enough power to isolate the
>> > problem to the range---but with electric supply. I have a breaker box
>> > in the basement that I've reset to no quick solution.
>>
>> > Can anyone speculate as to why, all of the sudden, the range (or
>> > rather, the outlet the range plugs into) is not receiving the
>> > appropriate volts. Keep it simple for me if possible; I clearly am a
>> > beginner at understanding home electric wiring.
>>
>> How did he test? You actually have two feeds of 110 volts. It is possible
>> that one leg is dropped out. First thing I'd check is the circuit inside
>> the breaker box. There are two wires that feed the 220 line. I'd check to
>> be sure each one had 110. Then I'd check the ground.
>


Posted by on March 21, 2007, 4:26 pm


He was not an electrician. He was an appliance repair man who is not
certified to do professional electrical work.

The circuit was not clearly tripped. It was still in the on position.
I flipped it off and then on to see if it would work and had no luck.




> On 21 Mar 2007 12:46:20 -0700, ahai...@gmail.com wrote:
>
> >Not sure how he tested. He pulled the range out from the wall and
> >hooked something up to the back of it. He said there was not 220V
> >going into the unit.
>
> iF HE was an electrician, did he offer to fix it? How much was he
> going to charge? What did he say needed to be done?
>
> I have a breaker box
>
> >> > in the basement that I've reset to no quick solution.
>
> Was it obviously tripped before you reset it? Or are you just saying
> that you turned it off and on to be sure? That's a good idea, but I'd
> still like to know if it was clearly tripped before you reset it.
>
>
>
> >> >I recently turned on the stove on my electric range and heard a quiet
> >> > crackling noise. The range still gets electricity because the clock,
> >> > burner-on light, and oven light all work. The stove and oven will no
> >> > longer heat up, though. I contacted an appliance repair man who
> >> > measured the volts and said there is supposed to be 220V going into an
> >> > electric range and in my case, there is only 110V. He said the problem
> >> > is probably not with the stove/oven---and we can't even check to see
> >> > if there is a problem because there's not enough power to isolate the
> >> > problem to the range---but with electric supply. I have a breaker box
> >> > in the basement that I've reset to no quick solution.
>
> >> > Can anyone speculate as to why, all of the sudden, the range (or
> >> > rather, the outlet the range plugs into) is not receiving the
> >> > appropriate volts. Keep it simple for me if possible; I clearly am a
> >> > beginner at understanding home electric wiring.
>
> >> How did he test? You actually have two feeds of 110 volts. It is possible
> >> that one leg is dropped out. First thing I'd check is the circuit inside
> >> the breaker box. There are two wires that feed the 220 line. I'd check to
> >> be sure each one had 110. Then I'd check the ground.



Posted by Justin West on March 22, 2007, 1:35 am


On Mar 21, 4:26 pm, ahai...@gmail.com wrote:
> He was not an electrician. He was an appliance repair man who is not
> certified to do professional electrical work.
>
> The circuit was not clearly tripped. It was still in the on position.
> I flipped it off and then on to see if it would work and had no luck.

If I take a A/C Volt meter and measure from one hot leg to another hot
leg on a 200V system I should see 200V. If I only see 110V then I
know something has happened.

I can only forsee 2 possible problems:

1) There is a loose wire in the box you plug the range into
2) One of the 2 breakers is defective

If you can access the breakers:

Check the load side of each breaker with an A/C Volt meter. If you
read 200V at this point it is probably the plug end.
If your reading 110V then you have a breaker issue. Replace breaker,
or have a professional do so.

If your reading 200V at your plug, call the service person back and
beat with a rubber mallet. :) (won't necessarily get the problem
rectified, but you may feel better :P).


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