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Electric water heater problem????? CM 01-09-2008
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Posted by Sam E on January 10, 2008, 9:41 am
On Wed, 09 Jan 2008 23:22:32 GMT, "Dr. Hardcrab"

>
>> I'm not trying to beat on you either, but the first part of a repair is to
>> determine what's broken. As the others have said, you need to verify 240
>> volts across the two upper element terminals. My guess is that you've got
>> a dead leg feeding the heater, which may have been the original problem.
>> If you do have 240 volts across the upper element, it'll heat or you have
>> a bad element, which is unlikely
>
>
>You explained better than I did.
>
>I've seen many techs take out their meters and check one termimal to ground
>("Hmmmm....120....that's good...") and then check the other and get the same
>thing and think everything is hunky dorey (What exactly *IS* a dorey and how
>did it get so hunky?)
>

A dorey is a small boat.

>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>> OK folks I have repaired many electric water heaters in my 18 years as a
>>> handyman and have never ran into one that I couldn't fix. The best part
>>> is I am doing this for free for a friend that is out of work.
>>>
>>> First I replaced both elements and upper/lower thermostats and flushed
>>> the water heater because it would not make hot water. It still didn't
>>> heat the water. I went back over today and changed them all out again and
>>> it still doesn't work. Yes it has power to it , right up to the top
>>> element. What am I missing?
>>>
>>> Thanks
>>>
>>> cm
>>>
>>
>>

Posted by lp13-30 on January 10, 2008, 11:27 am
A slab leak is a possibility, which should not be that hard to
determine. If large enough to cause the problem, you should probably be
able to hear water running through the pipes and tank. Otherwise, see if
the water meter is turning with everything off, or the pump cycling if
it is on a well. I ran into a similar situation some years ago with a
friend's gas WH. Turned out the Moen cartridge at the bathtub was bad.
The water would take the path of least resistance, so any time a hot
water faucet was opened, the water would feed through that cartridge
rather than the WH. He had already bought a new WH, and I was going to
install it for him. I turned the valve off in the cold water inlet to
the WH and opened the drain valve. Not only was the water in the tank
hot, but the pressure in it never dropped. Finally took the hot water
line loose at the WH, and water was coming out of the line, but not out
of the WH. He took the new WH back and got a refund on it. Good luck
Larry


Posted by Dr. Hardcrab on January 10, 2008, 2:32 pm

> On Wed, 09 Jan 2008 23:22:32 GMT, "Dr. Hardcrab"
>
>>
>>> I'm not trying to beat on you either, but the first part of a repair is
>>> to
>>> determine what's broken. As the others have said, you need to verify 240
>>> volts across the two upper element terminals. My guess is that you've
>>> got
>>> a dead leg feeding the heater, which may have been the original problem.
>>> If you do have 240 volts across the upper element, it'll heat or you
>>> have
>>> a bad element, which is unlikely
>>
>>
>>You explained better than I did.
>>
>>I've seen many techs take out their meters and check one termimal to
>>ground
>>("Hmmmm....120....that's good...") and then check the other and get the
>>same
>>thing and think everything is hunky dorey (What exactly *IS* a dorey and
>>how
>>did it get so hunky?)
>>
>
> A dorey is a small boat.

Hmmmmm.......so that's why my wife laughs and points
and.......nevermind.......


Posted by CM on January 9, 2008, 6:24 pm
RBM,

I have 220 volts at the t-stat and the upper element. I removed the upper
element earlier today to check its condition and continuity and it was fine.

Thanks,

Craig


> I'm not trying to beat on you either, but the first part of a repair is to
> determine what's broken. As the others have said, you need to verify 240
> volts across the two upper element terminals. My guess is that you've got
> a dead leg feeding the heater, which may have been the original problem.
> If you do have 240 volts across the upper element, it'll heat or you have
> a bad element, which is unlikely
>
>
>
>
>> OK folks I have repaired many electric water heaters in my 18 years as a
>> handyman and have never ran into one that I couldn't fix. The best part
>> is I am doing this for free for a friend that is out of work.
>>
>> First I replaced both elements and upper/lower thermostats and flushed
>> the water heater because it would not make hot water. It still didn't
>> heat the water. I went back over today and changed them all out again and
>> it still doesn't work. Yes it has power to it , right up to the top
>> element. What am I missing?
>>
>> Thanks
>>
>> cm
>>
>
>



Posted by RBM on January 9, 2008, 6:29 pm
Forget the thermostat. There are two terminals on the element. When you test
across those two terminals, do you get 240 volts?




> RBM,
>
> I have 220 volts at the t-stat and the upper element. I removed the upper
> element earlier today to check its condition and continuity and it was
> fine.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Craig
>
>
>> I'm not trying to beat on you either, but the first part of a repair is
>> to determine what's broken. As the others have said, you need to verify
>> 240 volts across the two upper element terminals. My guess is that you've
>> got a dead leg feeding the heater, which may have been the original
>> problem. If you do have 240 volts across the upper element, it'll heat or
>> you have a bad element, which is unlikely
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>> OK folks I have repaired many electric water heaters in my 18 years as a
>>> handyman and have never ran into one that I couldn't fix. The best part
>>> is I am doing this for free for a friend that is out of work.
>>>
>>> First I replaced both elements and upper/lower thermostats and flushed
>>> the water heater because it would not make hot water. It still didn't
>>> heat the water. I went back over today and changed them all out again
>>> and it still doesn't work. Yes it has power to it , right up to the top
>>> element. What am I missing?
>>>
>>> Thanks
>>>
>>> cm
>>>
>>
>>
>
>



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