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Electric water heater problem?????

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Electric water heater problem????? CM 01-09-2008
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Posted by CM on January 9, 2008, 6:31 pm
Yup.

cm


> Forget the thermostat. There are two terminals on the element. When you
> test across those two terminals, do you get 240 volts?
>
>
>
>
>> RBM,
>>
>> I have 220 volts at the t-stat and the upper element. I removed the upper
>> element earlier today to check its condition and continuity and it was
>> fine.
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>> Craig
>>
>>
>>> I'm not trying to beat on you either, but the first part of a repair is
>>> to determine what's broken. As the others have said, you need to verify
>>> 240 volts across the two upper element terminals. My guess is that
>>> you've got a dead leg feeding the heater, which may have been the
>>> original problem. If you do have 240 volts across the upper element,
>>> it'll heat or you have a bad element, which is unlikely
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>> OK folks I have repaired many electric water heaters in my 18 years as
>>>> a handyman and have never ran into one that I couldn't fix. The best
>>>> part is I am doing this for free for a friend that is out of work.
>>>>
>>>> First I replaced both elements and upper/lower thermostats and flushed
>>>> the water heater because it would not make hot water. It still didn't
>>>> heat the water. I went back over today and changed them all out again
>>>> and it still doesn't work. Yes it has power to it , right up to the
>>>> top element. What am I missing?
>>>>
>>>> Thanks
>>>>
>>>> cm
>>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>
>



Posted by RBM on January 9, 2008, 6:45 pm
It would be good if you had an ammeter, which would tell you if there is any
current flowing. I had a situation one time very similar to yours. The wires
in the heater go from the junction box on top of the heater through foam
insulation to the upper thermostat. One of the two wires burned in half
imbedded in the foam insulation. Through the moisture and carbonized copper
I got a 240 volt reading at the upper thermostat and element, but the
element of course wouldn't heat. Barring a bad meter, I would try to
physically check the condition of the wires inside the heater

> Yup.
>
> cm
>
>
>> Forget the thermostat. There are two terminals on the element. When you
>> test across those two terminals, do you get 240 volts?
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>> RBM,
>>>
>>> I have 220 volts at the t-stat and the upper element. I removed the
>>> upper element earlier today to check its condition and continuity and it
>>> was fine.
>>>
>>> Thanks,
>>>
>>> Craig
>>>
>>>
>>>> I'm not trying to beat on you either, but the first part of a repair is
>>>> to determine what's broken. As the others have said, you need to verify
>>>> 240 volts across the two upper element terminals. My guess is that
>>>> you've got a dead leg feeding the heater, which may have been the
>>>> original problem. If you do have 240 volts across the upper element,
>>>> it'll heat or you have a bad element, which is unlikely
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>> OK folks I have repaired many electric water heaters in my 18 years as
>>>>> a handyman and have never ran into one that I couldn't fix. The best
>>>>> part is I am doing this for free for a friend that is out of work.
>>>>>
>>>>> First I replaced both elements and upper/lower thermostats and flushed
>>>>> the water heater because it would not make hot water. It still didn't
>>>>> heat the water. I went back over today and changed them all out again
>>>>> and it still doesn't work. Yes it has power to it , right up to the
>>>>> top element. What am I missing?
>>>>>
>>>>> Thanks
>>>>>
>>>>> cm
>>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>
>



Posted by CM on January 9, 2008, 7:00 pm
RBM,

I will check them in the morning.

I just got off the phone with the home owner and she says there is a warm
spot on the vinyl covered concrete floor near her kitchen sink. I think she
may have a leaking hot water pipe under the slab. I'll check all this out in
the morning.

Thanks so much,

cm


> It would be good if you had an ammeter, which would tell you if there is
> any current flowing. I had a situation one time very similar to yours. The
> wires in the heater go from the junction box on top of the heater through
> foam insulation to the upper thermostat. One of the two wires burned in
> half imbedded in the foam insulation. Through the moisture and carbonized
> copper I got a 240 volt reading at the upper thermostat and element, but
> the element of course wouldn't heat. Barring a bad meter, I would try to
> physically check the condition of the wires inside the heater
>
>> Yup.
>>
>> cm
>>
>>
>>> Forget the thermostat. There are two terminals on the element. When you
>>> test across those two terminals, do you get 240 volts?
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>> RBM,
>>>>
>>>> I have 220 volts at the t-stat and the upper element. I removed the
>>>> upper element earlier today to check its condition and continuity and
>>>> it was fine.
>>>>
>>>> Thanks,
>>>>
>>>> Craig
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>> I'm not trying to beat on you either, but the first part of a repair
>>>>> is to determine what's broken. As the others have said, you need to
>>>>> verify 240 volts across the two upper element terminals. My guess is
>>>>> that you've got a dead leg feeding the heater, which may have been the
>>>>> original problem. If you do have 240 volts across the upper element,
>>>>> it'll heat or you have a bad element, which is unlikely
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>> OK folks I have repaired many electric water heaters in my 18 years
>>>>>> as a handyman and have never ran into one that I couldn't fix. The
>>>>>> best part is I am doing this for free for a friend that is out of
>>>>>> work.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> First I replaced both elements and upper/lower thermostats and
>>>>>> flushed the water heater because it would not make hot water. It
>>>>>> still didn't heat the water. I went back over today and changed them
>>>>>> all out again and it still doesn't work. Yes it has power to it ,
>>>>>> right up to the top element. What am I missing?
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Thanks
>>>>>>
>>>>>> cm
>>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>
>



Posted by RBM on January 9, 2008, 6:52 pm
Another thing CM, we out here in the ether, have no idea of how you are
testing . Like Dr. Hardcrab said. you could be testing each terminal to
ground and getting 120 volts on each, multiply that time 2, you get 240




> OK folks I have repaired many electric water heaters in my 18 years as a
> handyman and have never ran into one that I couldn't fix. The best part is
> I am doing this for free for a friend that is out of work.
>
> First I replaced both elements and upper/lower thermostats and flushed the
> water heater because it would not make hot water. It still didn't heat
> the water. I went back over today and changed them all out again and it
> still doesn't work. Yes it has power to it , right up to the top element.
> What am I missing?
>
> Thanks
>
> cm
>



Posted by CM on January 9, 2008, 7:03 pm
I am testing across the terminal - not to ground so I am getting 220 volts
on my digital meter. I will also take a back up meter tomorrow.

If it is fact an under slab leak the water could just be running through the
water heater and not sitting long enough to heat. Should be easy to check.

cm


> Another thing CM, we out here in the ether, have no idea of how you are
> testing . Like Dr. Hardcrab said. you could be testing each terminal to
> ground and getting 120 volts on each, multiply that time 2, you get 240
>
>
>
>
>> OK folks I have repaired many electric water heaters in my 18 years as a
>> handyman and have never ran into one that I couldn't fix. The best part
>> is I am doing this for free for a friend that is out of work.
>>
>> First I replaced both elements and upper/lower thermostats and flushed
>> the water heater because it would not make hot water. It still didn't
>> heat the water. I went back over today and changed them all out again and
>> it still doesn't work. Yes it has power to it , right up to the top
>> element. What am I missing?
>>
>> Thanks
>>
>> cm
>>
>
>



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