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Posted by John Grabowski on February 25, 2007, 8:02 pm
> Hello gang,
>
> Just discovered this group and the material here is awesome.
>
> I have plenty of DIY experience and used to do home repair work, I did
> some work with an electrician but certainly do not think I am an
> expert.
>
> My question involves adding recessed ceiling lights in my bedroom.
>
> IMPORTANT FACT - I do have attic access. I will be able to run or
> change Romex as needed.
>
> Currently, I have 2 switches on the wall next to my bedroom door.
> Switch A is for the bathroom and has 2 control buttons - one for the
> fan and one for the light. Switch B is on the same power source but
> only controls an overhead ceiling fan with light fixtures (which are
> controlled by 2 small pull chains). I want to keep all of these things
> as they are.
>
> I want to add about 5 lights in two separate groups that can be shut
> off/turned on and dimmed by group. Group 1 would consist of 2 over the
> bed and 1 over the dresser. Group 2 would be 2 lights over my home
> office/desk area. All of this is in my bedroom.
>
> I imagine in my mind a dimmer switch controlling my DESK area lights
> leaving the other lights off to stop energy waste. Of course in vice
> versa, I want to read in bed so I would want those lights on and the
> DESK area off.
>
> I know I will have to cut open the switch area on the wall, make it
> bigger, then mud, tape and paint it. No problem there! I just cannot
> see the wiring layout in my mind, don't know which switches would be
> the correct choice and not sure if it is even possible from one power
> source. I am sure I will have to run 2 lines of 14/3 in the attic and
> drop it down to the wall switch power source.
>
> If you can help me, please be detailed and clear. Do not assume I will
> know the trade slang and if possible, please e-mail me a diagram drawn
> on the PC in MS Paint, etc. if you can.
>
>
> Thanks in advance and know that I really appreciate any help.
>
Open up the existing switches and confirm that you have a hot and neutral
there. Then undo all of the connections and MARK them so you will be able
to put them back the way they were. You didn't say what the existing wiring
consisted of or how old the house is. If the existing switch box is plastic
you may be able to pry it off the stud without damaging the wall. If it is
metal it may not be so easy, but give it a shot anyway. Once you get the
old box out cut a hole for a new four gang box or cut the opening for the
four gang box first, then remove the existing box. You will have more room
to work that way..
Next lay out your fixtures, mark the centers and confirm that there are no
obstacles for their installation by pushing a thin screwdriver through the
center in several different directions. A short piece of fish tape or a
coat hangar wire would be useful for this also. If you encounter any
obstacles such as a joist, pipe, or duct you will need to tweak your
layout. Draw the circle using the template and cut the holes for the
fixtures. Go up in the attic with a drill and a fish tape and drill a hole
or two down to your switch location. Push the fish tape down the wall to the
switch location. Then go drill some holes in the joists between lights. Now
go back down and attach two 14/2 cables to the fish tape or have a helper do
this. Pull them up to the attic and run each one to the first light on each
row being sure to pull them through the joists. You will also need to
staple them along the joists.
Now go back down and cut the cable at the switch location. Take your roll
of cable and push the end up into one of the holes cut out for the lights.
Go back in the attic and run the wire from light to light through the joists
leaving enough slack at each location to wire up the lights from below. Go
back down and wire up the lights and install them.
Go the switch box location and bring the old and new wires into the four
gang box. The whites for the new lights go to the existing neutral. The
blacks will be the switch leg. You will need to make some pigtails off of
the existing hot wire to feed the new single pole switches or dimmers.
If you wanted to control these lights from multiple locations you would need
to run one 14/3 cable for each switch to another switch location. The red
and white would be the travelers. The black at the remote location would go
on the black screw of the 3-way switch. The black of the 14/3 at the four
gang box would get connected to the hot wire and the black from the 14/2
switch leg would go to the black screw on the 3-way switch or dimmer.
There are a lot of wiring diagrams on various web sites already. I don't
know exactly where they are, but perhaps another person will post those
links.
I hope this helps.
John Grabowski
http://www.mrelectrician.tv
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