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Posted by Edwin Pawlowski on November 21, 2007, 9:45 pm
> ~300 sq
> ft will go over a below grade (4' below) concrete floor. The concrete
> floor has never exhibited any moisture problems.
>
> Several questions:
> How well does the engineered stuff nail?
> If you have used Capella or Muskoka, how was the material? Was there a
> lot of bad pieces? Was the grade what you expected? How well has it
> held up to traffic?
>
> I don't feel like laying down underlayment on the concrete and then
> nailing the planks down. This will raise the floor by 1 1/2". I think
> I will be gluing down the planks directly to the concrete. If I have
> to nail to underlayment, I think I would go with the floating
> underlayment method which lays down two staggered layers of 3/8"
> sheets nailed or screwed together, and nail or glue to this. Anyone
> tried this? It does not seem to be a very common method.
What does the manufacturer recommend? Below grade, most want a barrier of
some sort. In my case, it was just a poly sheeting. It does not matter what
you do or do not feel like doing, it is what is needed to perform properly
over the next 20 years or more. Trying to save $100 and an hour now can be
a foolish error.
>
> Anybody glued down on concrete using the 3/4" planks? How bad was it?
> What did you do to make sure boards were tight fit?
I've not done it, but I understand it is fairly easy at or above grade.
Check what the manufacturer says below grade. Actually, they say not to
install it below grade and remember, the warranty will be void on that
portion.
Q - Where can hardwood floors be installed?
A - Muskoka hardwood floors can be installed pretty well anywhere in your
home. ¾" solid products from the Muskoka Gallery Collection can be installed
on or above grade. Engineered products from the Muskoka Architectural
Collection can be installed below, on, or above grade. All Muskoka products
should avoid being installed in any bathrooms and/or wet bar areas.
>
> Roughly how long can I expect it to take me to complete a good sized
> room. I am reasonable handy, and I have most of the appropriate power
> tools; I do intend to buy a miter saw to supplement my table saw.
>
> Any other hints I can use to make the job go easier?
Be sure the miter saw has a decent carbide blade.
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