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Enlarge a hole in studs MiamiCuse 10-13-2009
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Posted by RicodJour on October 15, 2009, 5:22 pm


> Since this is not a piece of furniture, use a jigsaw to make the hole
> larger.

Why do people think that because it won't be seen it's not important?
I'd say roughly 2/3s or more of the hacked holes in studs and joists
end up creating a stress concentration point and splitting the wood.
Drilled holes rarely do that unless they are drilled too near an edge/
end.

R

Posted by on October 15, 2009, 7:35 pm


On Thu, 15 Oct 2009 14:22:11 -0700 (PDT), RicodJour

>> Since this is not a piece of furniture, use a jigsaw to make the hole
>> larger.
>Why do people think that because it won't be seen it's not important?
>I'd say roughly 2/3s or more of the hacked holes in studs and joists
>end up creating a stress concentration point and splitting the wood.
>Drilled holes rarely do that unless they are drilled too near an edge/
>end.
>R
And properly enlarged with a rotozip leaves no "rizers" to encourage
splitting either.

Posted by dpb on October 15, 2009, 7:44 pm


RicodJour wrote:
>> Since this is not a piece of furniture, use a jigsaw to make the hole
>> larger.
>
> Why do people think that because it won't be seen it's not important?
> I'd say roughly 2/3s or more of the hacked holes in studs and joists
> end up creating a stress concentration point and splitting the wood.
> Drilled holes rarely do that unless they are drilled too near an edge/
> end.

Well, there's roughing out and hacking...

_I_ think it isn't worth spending a lot of time on because it simply
isn't and a vertical non-loadbearing wet wall has so little bending
stress these imagined stress concentration points are not going to be
failure points.

A main, load-bearing beam some reason to care, this application, "not so
much". There are far better places to spend the amount of time MC was
talking about to fixup the problem. (Of course, if he had bothered to
measure the hole or test fit a piece after the first one, it would have
saved the whole problem from arising, but that's another story... :( )

--

Posted by RicodJour on October 15, 2009, 9:01 pm


> RicodJour wrote:
> >> Since this is not a piece of furniture, use a jigsaw to make the hole
> >> larger.
> > Why do people think that because it won't be seen it's not important?
> > I'd say roughly 2/3s or more of the hacked holes in studs and joists
> > end up creating a stress concentration point and splitting the wood.
> > Drilled holes rarely do that unless they are drilled too near an edge/
> > end.
> Well, there's roughing out and hacking...
> _I_ think it isn't worth spending a lot of time on because it simply
> isn't and a vertical non-loadbearing wet wall has so little bending
> stress these imagined stress concentration points are not going to be
> failure points.

Agreed it is not critical in a non-load-bearing wall.

> A main, load-bearing beam some reason to care, this application, "not so
> much". =A0There are far better places to spend the amount of time MC was
> talking about to fixup the problem. =A0(Of course, if he had bothered to
> measure the hole or test fit a piece after the first one, it would have
> saved the whole problem from arising, but that's another story... :( )

Most splits in wood start as shrinkage checking, and/or seasonal
changes in humidity, not from excess load. A hacked hole has jagged
edges that concentrate the stress.

Instill good habits. I would also venture that a hole saw in a
reasonable drill would take less time than using a reciprocating saw,
jigsaw or Rotozip.

R

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