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Posted by miamicuse on July 24, 2005, 9:09 pm
I did call a few plumbers and one suggested the resin liner approach, but
then I paid them $500 for the video inspection turned out it is near an
elbow so no luck.
I had three plumbers came by and they said they can open up a hole inside to
do the work, but the location is "approximate" and not exact. So a hole
minimum 36"x36" below the cabinets will not work. Because of the break the
pipe section there is "pitched backwards" so it is always submerged with
water, therefore it is very difficult to tell how the pipe run. Did it make
a 90 degree angle there, or was it a 45 + 45, and that changes where the
location is exactly. The plumber gave me an estimate of $2000 to fix it
from the kitchen. I am then responsible to redo the concrete and tiles
anyways.
So I am trying to find the best approach for the tunneling method.
MC
>
> > Location: Miami, Florida
> > Property location: About two miles from Atlantic Ocean, soil is sandy.
> > Property is single story, on monolithic concrete slab 8" thick. Via
video
> > inspection determine line is broken about 5 feet inside from an exterior
> > wall probably directly under a cabinet in the kitchen, with no
replacement
> > tiles available. The line is broken near an elbow so using a resin
liner
> > solution is out. Had two drain company came out and both recommend
tunnel
> > under house.
> >
> > Roto-Rooter estimated $1800 excavation + $900 pipe repair. The $1800
> > excavation cost is based on a $180 per foot basis. Since the location
is
> > around 5 feet in, they figured 4 feet deep, 5 feet in, and an extra foot
> for
> > manuever will add to 10 feet. However, if there is a footing to cause
> them
> > to dig deeper than originally thought (I am pretty sure there is), or
they
> > hit the water table (yes they probably will...) or the location is not
> > pinned down and they have to dig further to find the break (and that may
> > happen too...), it will be however long they dig times $180. So I
figure
> > conservative estimate will be to figure 20 feet, which will mean $3600 +
> > $900 = $4500. I asked them how they will back fill and they told me
they
> > will put the original dirt back in and it should be OK. The digging
will
> be
> > done manually. They did not say whether there will be any permit fee or
> > whether they will get a permit or not.
> >
> > The AAA Rapid Rooter came by, and their estimate is totally different.
> They
> > told me their charge is $7500 minimum. Minimum meaning they don't run
> into
> > complications. I asked them what they included, and they told me it
> > included using a "vaccon" truck to dig the tunnel (not manual digging),
> they
> > add water and literally "suck" the sand out and form the tunnel, the
> actual
> > pipe repair, permit fee, engineer to come out to see the soil sample is
> > suitable for excavation of this nature, backfill with a truck shooting
wet
> > sand (may mix some cement in) into the tunnel. The total will be $7500.
> > They will not provide an itemized breakdown since some clients used
their
> > estimate to get insurance money but never do the job.
> >
> > So drastically different approach. Machine digging with water versus
> manual
> > digging. Manual backfill with excavated dirt versus shooting compacted
> > sand. One job is about twice as the other.
> >
> > Any ides which one is more "safe"? I have the feeling manual digging is
> > less damaging and involve less disturbance to the soil and can keep the
> > tunnel size smallest, is this right? But backfilling with the original
> dirt
> > concerns me. Not sure how you can backfill the void that is above the
> > footing back without some sort of pressurized method. Both are
reputable
> > companies.
> >
> > I am thinking one possibility would be to use Roto-Rooter to do the
> repair,
> > and see if they will come down on the price if I ask them NOT to back
> fill.
> > I will back fill myself and see if I can find a subcontractor that will
do
> > the wet sand shooting back fill. But will this work? They can't pull
the
> > permit if I am going to do part of the work myself?
> >
> > Any advise?
> >
> > MC
>
> Yikes for that kind of money I would be on the phone to at least 20
> contractors before I spent that much. Have you called any plumbers?
>
> I tend to stay away from chain service organizations. Franchises are all
> over the place when it comes to pricing in my experience.
>
>
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