Exploding Broiler Element

Posted by George E. Cawthon on February 5, 2007, 11:31 pm

John Gilmer wrote:

>> Personally, I can't imagine what use a solid state
>> circuit board is in an electric oven. Regular
>> mechanical switches, clocks, and thermostat.
>> Nobody (almost nobody) ever uses the clock so what
>> need is there for a circuit board?

>
> Once you design it so that the elements are controlled by the "circuit
> board" all kinds of functions become a whole lot less expensive.
> Controlling the self-cleaning feature uses the same temperature sensor
> that's already in place. The only "extra" is a small electro-magnet and a
> switch to keep the oven locked.
>
> I strongly suspect that with a reasonable run, it's as cheap to make a stove
> with the timer and electronics as a more electro-mechanical self-cleaning
> over.
>
> The only problem is that when the board goes, it's gone.
>
> I suppose it's still possible to get a truly "basic" stove with
> electro-mechnical thermostat and no self-cleaning features. But once you
> toss in the self-cleaning features the electronics is not much more
> expensive than basic electro-mechanical controls and you get the timer
> function (and clock) for only a little more cost.
>
> I still remember the old mechanical timers. It always seemed that by the
> time I got around to actually using it, the timer had worn out!
>
>

You are probably right, the initial cost is less.
But the total cost if any repairs are needed may
be more. Our current stove was new in 1976.
I,ve replaced one indicator light and one burner.
Repair is cheap--less than $25 for a big burner,
less than $30 for either oven element, $6 bucks
for an indicator light, etc. All of the heating
elements, stove top and oven just plug in,
couldn't be simpler.

Never use the timer function, set the clock at
each time change, but seldom look at it.

As for self-cleaning oven, who wants it. Costs
money to operate, probably reduces the life of
every element of the stove (including the circuit
board) because of heat.

Posted by jeffcpix@yahoo.com on February 6, 2007, 5:51 am

Thanks for all the input!
Luckily the dripping element was outside the area over the pizza
(mushrooms, onions, roasted garlic, pesto) -- and it was delicious --
with no short term health effects except extra pounds. The problem
definitely wasn't related to food splatter -- the element looked like
someone had gone at it with a cutting torch. While the fire was going,
the display showed PF (power failure). It was only after I threw the
breaker that the element stopped burning; once the breaker was reset,
the dislay panel worked as though nothing had happened.

dpb was correct in the sequence of events:
1) the tech (under a service contract with Century Service Systems in
Florida) arrived one week later
2) examined the element
3) came back 2 weeks later with a new one which he installed and
determined was not working (by touch)
4) removed the rear cover (exposing the control board)
5) assumed it was a bad control board without making any test
6) left

One week later I get a call from the office telling me that a new
board will be $250 (not covered under the service contract).

I do not use the broiler very often so I'm leaning towards leaving it
as is, HOWEVER, the 'other half' wants it fixed (even if she's not
willing to pony up the $250).

I do all the cooking and can't stand the flat top stoves (except for
clean-up). No choice but to use electric (condo). I especially hate
having to reach over the tops of the pots to turn the 'burners' on/
off.
As for the features (self clean, timer, digital display) -- all things
I can live without -- but I'll admit that in ant/bug ridden Florida,
not having to deal with cleaning out the area under the stove-top is
a definite plus.

Based on the info, I think I should get the service company to send
out a tech who can determine whether there is current to the element
and if there is an internal fuse. I'm also checking out other sources
for control boards.

Thanks again for everyone's responses.

Posted by Edwin Pawlowski on February 6, 2007, 6:22 am

> As for self-cleaning oven, who wants it. Costs money to operate, probably
> reduces the life of every element of the stove (including the circuit
> board) because of heat.

Thanks for the reminder. I'll clean our oven today since it is very cold
and the heat from the oven is just more heat that I need from some source
anyway. I'd never do it in the summer when we run the AC though.

Posted by dpb on February 6, 2007, 10:08 am

On Feb 5, 10:31 pm, "George E. Cawthon" <GeorgeC-

Bo...@worldnet.att.net> wrote:
> John Gilmer wrote:

> >> Personally, I can't imagine what use a solid state
> >> circuit board is in an electric oven. Regular
> >> mechanical switches, clocks, and thermostat.
> >> Nobody (almost nobody) ever uses the clock so what
> >> need is there for a circuit board?

> > Once you design it so that the elements are controlled by the "circuit
> > board" all kinds of functions become a whole lot less expensive.
> > Controlling the self-cleaning feature uses the same temperature sensor
> > that's already in place. The only "extra" is a small electro-magnet and a
> > switch to keep the oven locked.
> > I strongly suspect that with a reasonable run, it's as cheap to make a stove
> > with the timer and electronics as a more electro-mechanical self-cleaning
> > over.
> > The only problem is that when the board goes, it's gone.
> > I suppose it's still possible to get a truly "basic" stove with
> > electro-mechnical thermostat and no self-cleaning features. But once you
> > toss in the self-cleaning features the electronics is not much more
> > expensive than basic electro-mechanical controls and you get the timer
> > function (and clock) for only a little more cost.
> > I still remember the old mechanical timers. It always seemed that by the
> > time I got around to actually using it, the timer had worn out!

> You are probably right, the initial cost is less.
> But the total cost if any repairs are needed may
> be more. Our current stove was new in 1976.
> I,ve replaced one indicator light and one burner.
> Repair is cheap--less than $25 for a big burner,
> less than $30 for either oven element, $6 bucks
> for an indicator light, etc. All of the heating
> elements, stove top and oven just plug in,
> couldn't be simpler.
> Never use the timer function, set the clock at
> each time change, but seldom look at it.
> As for self-cleaning oven, who wants it. Costs
> money to operate, probably reduces the life of
> every element of the stove (including the circuit
> board) because of heat.- Hide quoted text -

...

OTOH, range here is of about the same vintage (GE w/ the microwave
unit in the oven which I don't think is available any longer :( ) and
the self-cleaning feature has been used regularly. Incremental cost
isn't that much as it is used relatively infrequently and after a
baking session so oven is already pre-warmed. Certainly can't tell
it's had any effect on lifetime of any component as repair list is
about the same as yours -- one oven element and needs a few of the
neon indicator lights.

The timer is used virtually every day, multiple times a day and the
timed bake cycle averages at least once/week. Personally, I would
think that type of usage far more typical than not from my experience
from grandparents to parents to our usage. But, if I were to go to a
population that included my kids' generation and younger, the need or
existence of a range at all would be almost totally optional...

Posted by David Martel on February 5, 2007, 9:05 am

Jeff,

I'm not sure I follow the sequence of events. The service guy comes out,
tests, diagnoses the problem (bad element and bad board), replaces the
broiler element as authorized, and leaves because you won't authorize the
board replacement. Is that right? Why did you authorize the broiler element?
After the tests and diagnosis what did he say to you? Just a bad element?
Bad element and a bad board? Does the oven element work?
Like you, I'm surprised the breaker did not trip. PC boards can fail
without "burn marks". I'm troubled by the absence of error codes. Why does
the tech want to replace the board? How does he know that the new element
isn't at fault or a wire?

Dave M.

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Exploding Broiler Element - Page 2