Home Page link

Exploding Broiler Element - Page 3

Home Repair - - If it ain't broken, don't fix it. Otherwise look here. 

Page 3 of 3       << first < 1 2 3 Bookmark this page:  YahooMyWeb Yahoo!  Google Google  Windows Live Favorites Windows Live  del.icio.us del.icio.us  digg digg  Add to Netscape Netscape
Subject Author Date
Exploding Broiler Element jeffcpix@yahoo.com 02-05-2007
If you were  Registered and logged in, you could reply and use other advanced thread options
Posted by dpb on February 5, 2007, 10:20 am


> Jeff,
> I'm not sure I follow the sequence of events. The service guy comes out,
> tests, diagnoses the problem (bad element and bad board), replaces the
> broiler element as authorized, and leaves because you won't authorize the
> board replacement. Is that right? Why did you authorize the broiler element?
> After the tests and diagnosis what did he say to you? Just a bad element?
> Bad element and a bad board? Does the oven element work?
> Like you, I'm surprised the breaker did not trip. PC boards can fail
> without "burn marks". I'm troubled by the absence of error codes. Why does
> the tech want to replace the board? How does he know that the new element
> isn't at fault or a wire?

My guess is sequence of events went something like --

1. Replaced element w/ no prior diagnostics as it obviously failed.
2. Somewhat surprisingly, actually tried it before left.
3. Assumed board must be bad.
4. Failing to have one with him, had no clue of what else could be
wrong and no idea how to find out.

It's not very surprising the element didn't draw enough current to
trip the breaker. Turning off the broiler element at the oven should
have been as effective as the breaker. If it wasn't, that would be a
clue that there actually was another failure at the board level.

Not knowing what faults are and are not detectable by the onboard
diagnostics, the lack of a failure code might or might not be of any
significance. That's one thing the Whirlpool people should be able to
provide. It might be there's a "reset" somewhere or a fuse in the
line although if so, one would expect it to have gone earlier -- but,
it's possible it was weakened then went when the power was reapplied
if it exists. Could, of course, simply be a faulty replacement
element -- somewhat unlikely, but not impossible. Or, it's possible a
connection was also burnt when the element went as someone else
suggested indirectly. If OP has a VOM, could measure voltage at the
element connection to see if it is actually not getting power. I'm
guessing that given that he/she called a tech to replace an element
that isn't likely, though.

Could check w/ the online appliance parts places and see what the
board costs that way for a quick comparison. Of course, if needs a
tech to replace it, that's of little comfort, too...



Posted by George E. Cawthon on February 5, 2007, 4:39 pm


jeffcpix@yahoo.com wrote:
> My Whirlpool range's broiler element exploded.
> The range is 4 years old and has had very little use.
> I was baking a pizza and decided to brown the top so I turned on the
> broiler.
> I left the oven door ajar and within 30 seconds there was a loud bang,
> a flash
> of light and a portion of the element was burning brightly (like a
> welding rod).
> It appeared that the element was melting as burning bits of it
> dripped onto the
> floor of the oven. I turned off the breaker and the fire went out.
>
> The service tech changed the element (which showed that indeed, the
> element
> had melted almost to its core) but the element won't heat up. He
> removed the
> back cover of the range and visually examined the circuit board. There
> was no
> evidence of damage. The display panel works, the oven element works,
> the surface burners work; when set to broil, the display shows 500
> but
> the element doesn't heat up.
>
> The service company, of course, doesn't cover circuit boards and they
> want $250 for the part.
> #1. Shouldn't the breaker have tripped?
> #2. Shouldn't the display indicate a malfunction?
> #3. Whirlpool 800 number wait time is always at least 30 minutes.
> #4. If it's a burnt out component on the board, shouldn't I be able to
> see
> some indication -- such as a burn mark.
>
> The range still works fine except for the broiler.
> Thanks.
>

Usually when an element goes, it is just the
element that is bad.

Could be the new element is defective, the tech
installed it incorrectly, the switch for the
broiler element burned, a wire melted between the
switch and the element connection.

Most people never use the broiler element, some
people use it a lot. If you don't use it much,
then forget it.

Posted by Ray on February 6, 2007, 8:29 am


> My Whirlpool range's broiler element exploded.
> The range is 4 years old and has had very little use.
> I was baking a pizza and decided to brown the top so I turned on the
> broiler.
> I left the oven door ajar and within 30 seconds there was a loud bang,
> a flash
> of light and a portion of the element was burning brightly (like a
> welding rod).
> It appeared that the element was melting as burning bits of it
> dripped onto the
> floor of the oven. I turned off the breaker and the fire went out.
> The service tech changed the element (which showed that indeed, the
> element
> had melted almost to its core) but the element won't heat up. He
> removed the
> back cover of the range and visually examined the circuit board. There
> was no
> evidence of damage. The display panel works, the oven element works,
> the surface burners work; when set to broil, the display shows 500
> but
> the element doesn't heat up.
> The service company, of course, doesn't cover circuit boards and they
> want $250 for the part.
> #1. Shouldn't the breaker have tripped?
> #2. Shouldn't the display indicate a malfunction?
> #3. Whirlpool 800 number wait time is always at least 30 minutes.
> #4. If it's a burnt out component on the board, shouldn't I be able to
> see
> some indication -- such as a burn mark.
> The range still works fine except for the broiler.
> Thanks.

Does the stove have a set of fuses hidden away under the top panel or
in the bottom drawer?


Posted by hallerb@aol.com on February 6, 2007, 9:12 am


Ther tech is probably right the board is bad. Why spend more bucks for
another tech?

Just tell the service company you will pay for the board as long as it
fixes the problem? No workingg board no $$ for them.

You should be able to find the wiring diagram on stove or at local
parts place and look for fuse, which I doubt you will find, as a local
parts store this mst of come up before.

as to self cleaning ovens that run the temp up to clean........

they have superior insulation and are higher end units so they are
better made. frankly I wouldnt be without it, and only clean ours a
couple times a year preferably in winter, the excess heat helps warm
the house


Page 3 of 3       << first < 1 2 3
Similar ThreadsPosted
Replacing my broiler element? August 6, 2008, 9:55 am
Installing a new broiler element... August 8, 2008, 2:22 pm
Broiler Element (Calrod) in Old GE Range Doesn't Get Hot Enough January 5, 2007, 12:47 am
Is it possible to shorten a broiler element from an oven? November 28, 2007, 8:36 am
GE oven lower bake element burned thru replaced element no power to oven April 12, 2006, 3:26 pm
CO gas from broiler February 11, 2007, 3:51 pm
Exploding floor March 9, 2008, 1:36 pm
Broiler Shuts off by itself February 21, 2008, 1:53 pm
Re: Broiler won't light June 28, 2009, 9:21 pm
Re: Broiler won't light June 28, 2009, 9:30 pm

Contact Us | Privacy Policy

XML SitemapXML Sitemap