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Extending Fence Posts

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Extending Fence Posts ianjones 10-11-2006
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Posted by ianjones on October 11, 2006, 8:24 pm


This is a duplicate from alt.home.lawn.garden - I did not know the best
place to post it.

I am replacing the panels on my fence because of rot and lack of
integrity (1 x 3 cross pieces). It is currently 4' tall and I am
installing 6' panels. The posts are cemented in and in good shape - I
would like to keep them. They are on 8' centers. What would be the best
method for adding 2'+ to the posts? I was thinking I could toe nail
(least desirable) but I could also use some square metal brackets on 2
sides (not bad) or several wood dowels (time consuming - there are 45
posts). I think the best and cleanest install would be to use (if it
exists) a screw that is threaded on both ends. With a couple pilot
holes I could screw into the extension and then twist the whole unit
onto the existing post. The panels have 3 cross pieces and since 1
would fall on the extended piece it should keep it from ever twisting.

My question is what would be the best option as far as stability, ease
of installation and aesthetics (in that order I think). If my screw
option is the best - do those exist and what would they be called? Does
anyone have a online resource for that stuff? Are they made big enough?

Thanks!
Ian


Posted by JimR on October 11, 2006, 8:48 pm


Others may have better ideas, but I don't think you'll be happy with any of
your three choices. I'm afraid that anchoring the post only where the two
pieces meet will not only be very weak but also not look very good. Posts
should support the fence, but with your plan the fence panels would be
supporting the post. I'm assuming your posts are 4x4 pt lumber, not round
fence posts.

It seems to me that your posts only have to be tall enough to support the
topmost rail, so you may not have to have the post go all the way to 6'.
I'd suggest that you cut the extension to the added length you'll need, then
use 2 x 4s on either side of the existing post plus the extension, securing
through the 2x4s and 4x4 posts with carriage bolts. This ought to be
something you can do in short order and should be strong enough for a stable
fence. It may look a little cobbled-up, so you may want to put a 1 x 8
facing (trimmed to 6 1/2" width)over the inside of the posts to hide the
built-up post, then put a cap on the new post to protect the endgrain from
rain.

p.s. -- I saw your post in both fora. --

> This is a duplicate from alt.home.lawn.garden - I did not know the best
> place to post it.
>
> I am replacing the panels on my fence because of rot and lack of
> integrity (1 x 3 cross pieces). It is currently 4' tall and I am
> installing 6' panels. The posts are cemented in and in good shape - I
> would like to keep them. They are on 8' centers. What would be the best
> method for adding 2'+ to the posts? I was thinking I could toe nail
> (least desirable) but I could also use some square metal brackets on 2
> sides (not bad) or several wood dowels (time consuming - there are 45
> posts). I think the best and cleanest install would be to use (if it
> exists) a screw that is threaded on both ends. With a couple pilot
> holes I could screw into the extension and then twist the whole unit
> onto the existing post. The panels have 3 cross pieces and since 1
> would fall on the extended piece it should keep it from ever twisting.
>
> My question is what would be the best option as far as stability, ease
> of installation and aesthetics (in that order I think). If my screw
> option is the best - do those exist and what would they be called? Does
> anyone have a online resource for that stuff? Are they made big enough?
>
> Thanks!
> Ian
>



Posted by ianjones on October 11, 2006, 10:15 pm


All great suggestions. I like your idea with the 2x4 and the finish
1x8. The only issue is that with 45 fence posts I would looking at a
significant additional cost. I am going to price it out anyways and if
it doesn't prove too expensive I may go that route.

One other question - what is the optimal clearance between the fence
and ground? I want to keep small animals (cats) from going under it but
it is somewhat moist and I want to avoid rot as much as possible.

Thanks again.

JimR wrote:
> Others may have better ideas, but I don't think you'll be happy with any of
> your three choices. I'm afraid that anchoring the post only where the two
> pieces meet will not only be very weak but also not look very good. Posts
> should support the fence, but with your plan the fence panels would be
> supporting the post. I'm assuming your posts are 4x4 pt lumber, not round
> fence posts.
>
> It seems to me that your posts only have to be tall enough to support the
> topmost rail, so you may not have to have the post go all the way to 6'.
> I'd suggest that you cut the extension to the added length you'll need, then
> use 2 x 4s on either side of the existing post plus the extension, securing
> through the 2x4s and 4x4 posts with carriage bolts. This ought to be
> something you can do in short order and should be strong enough for a stable
> fence. It may look a little cobbled-up, so you may want to put a 1 x 8
> facing (trimmed to 6 1/2" width)over the inside of the posts to hide the
> built-up post, then put a cap on the new post to protect the endgrain from
> rain.
>
> p.s. -- I saw your post in both fora. --
>
> > This is a duplicate from alt.home.lawn.garden - I did not know the best
> > place to post it.
> >
> > I am replacing the panels on my fence because of rot and lack of
> > integrity (1 x 3 cross pieces). It is currently 4' tall and I am
> > installing 6' panels. The posts are cemented in and in good shape - I
> > would like to keep them. They are on 8' centers. What would be the best
> > method for adding 2'+ to the posts? I was thinking I could toe nail
> > (least desirable) but I could also use some square metal brackets on 2
> > sides (not bad) or several wood dowels (time consuming - there are 45
> > posts). I think the best and cleanest install would be to use (if it
> > exists) a screw that is threaded on both ends. With a couple pilot
> > holes I could screw into the extension and then twist the whole unit
> > onto the existing post. The panels have 3 cross pieces and since 1
> > would fall on the extended piece it should keep it from ever twisting.
> >
> > My question is what would be the best option as far as stability, ease
> > of installation and aesthetics (in that order I think). If my screw
> > option is the best - do those exist and what would they be called? Does
> > anyone have a online resource for that stuff? Are they made big enough?
> >
> > Thanks!
> > Ian
> >


Posted by HeyBub on October 11, 2006, 10:33 pm


ianjones wrote:
> All great suggestions. I like your idea with the 2x4 and the finish
> 1x8. The only issue is that with 45 fence posts I would looking at a
> significant additional cost. I am going to price it out anyways and if
> it doesn't prove too expensive I may go that route.
>
> One other question - what is the optimal clearance between the fence
> and ground? I want to keep small animals (cats) from going under it
> but
> it is somewhat moist and I want to avoid rot as much as possible.
>

Forget the clearance issue - cats will go OVER the fence. I see 'em all the
time go up a six foot fence and jump from there to the garage roof (another
seven feet). With cats, you have to think in three dimensions.

As to rot, stack one or more pickets horizontally at the bottom. When one
rots, you replace only one board instead of ten.



Posted by Goedjn on October 12, 2006, 1:15 pm



>All great suggestions. I like your idea with the 2x4 and the finish
>1x8. The only issue is that with 45 fence posts I would looking at a
>significant additional cost. I am going to price it out anyways and if
>it doesn't prove too expensive I may go that route.
>
>One other question - what is the optimal clearance between the fence
>and ground? I want to keep small animals (cats) from going under it but
>it is somewhat moist and I want to avoid rot as much as possible.

Dream on. Attach hardware cloth to the inside of the fence,
and bury the trailing edge at least 6".

>


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