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Fascia Board replacement Red Green 10-27-2009
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Posted by Red Green on October 27, 2009, 2:17 pm


Curious to know what others do when you have a 10/12' fascia board and only
0+ to maybe 24" is rotted on end or joint. This assumes the rest of it is
in very very good shape and replacing the whole length seems silly.

What do you folks use to cut the 45 for the board overlap? In particular,
without popping a hole in the shingles like with a recip saw. I have used a
recip saw and placed a piece of metal above. Have also used the HF
multifunction tool.

Just looking for better ideas.



Posted by RicodJour on October 27, 2009, 2:52 pm


> Curious to know what others do when you have a 10/12' fascia board and on=
ly
> 0+ to maybe 24" is rotted on end or joint. This assumes the rest of it is
> in very very good shape and replacing the whole length seems silly.
> What do you folks use to cut the 45 for the board overlap? In particular,
> without popping a hole in the shingles like with a recip saw. I have used=
a
> recip saw and placed a piece of metal above. Have also used the HF
> multifunction tool.
> Just looking for better ideas.

Are you trying to splice the new piece on a rafter tail? You don't
have to. You can cut it in between the rafter tails and use a piece
of 3/4" ply as a backing plate, and screw & glue. You also don't have
to cut it at 45 degrees that way, and it's much less likely to open
up.

R

Posted by Red Green on October 27, 2009, 3:17 pm



>> Curious to know what others do when you have a 10/12' fascia board
>> and on
> ly
>> 0+ to maybe 24" is rotted on end or joint. This assumes the rest of
>> it is in very very good shape and replacing the whole length seems
>> silly.
>> What do you folks use to cut the 45 for the board overlap? In
>> particular, without popping a hole in the shingles like with a recip
>> saw. I have used
> a
>> recip saw and placed a piece of metal above. Have also used the HF
>> multifunction tool.
>> Just looking for better ideas.
>
> Are you trying to splice the new piece on a rafter tail?

Not really. Most of these I do have a rafter cap on the soffit end. Can
splice anywhere.

> You don't
> have to. You can cut it in between the rafter tails and use a piece
> of 3/4" ply as a backing plate, and screw & glue. You also don't have
> to cut it at 45 degrees that way, and it's much less likely to open
> up.
>
> R

I've always tried to do a 45 to minimize water infiltration and it makes
a nicer looking joint I think. Probably wasting my time.

Posted by RicodJour on October 27, 2009, 5:36 pm


> >> Curious to know what others do when you have a 10/12' fascia board
> >> and only
> >> 0+ to maybe 24" is rotted on end or joint. This assumes the rest of
> >> it is in very very good shape and replacing the whole length seems
> >> silly.
> >> What do you folks use to cut the 45 for the board overlap? In
> >> particular, without popping a hole in the shingles like with a recip
> >> saw. I have used=A0a
> >> recip saw and placed a piece of metal above. Have also used the HF
> >> multifunction tool.
> >> Just looking for better ideas.
> > Are you trying to splice the new piece on a rafter tail?
> Not really. Most of these I do have a rafter cap on the soffit end. Can
> splice anywhere.
> > You don't
> > have to. =A0You can cut it in between the rafter tails and use a piece
> > of 3/4" ply as a backing plate, and screw & glue. =A0You also don't hav=
e
> > to cut it at 45 degrees that way, and it's much less likely to open
> > up.
> I've always tried to do a 45 to minimize water infiltration and it makes
> a nicer looking joint I think. Probably wasting my time.

Pretty much. A 45 only minimizes water infiltration if the 45 is
horizontal with the outside of the upper piece overlapping the bottom
piece.

If your fascia is capped you don't have to worry about water
infiltration nearly as much. Butt joint, goober some caulk on the cut
end and slide it into place.

R

Posted by Red Green on October 27, 2009, 8:35 pm



>> >> Curious to know what others do when you have a 10/12' fascia board
>> >> and only
>> >> 0+ to maybe 24" is rotted on end or joint. This assumes the rest
>> >> of it is in very very good shape and replacing the whole length
>> >> seems silly.
>> >> What do you folks use to cut the 45 for the board overlap? In
>> >> particular, without popping a hole in the shingles like with a
>> >> recip saw. I have used a
>> >> recip saw and placed a piece of metal above. Have also used the HF
>> >> multifunction tool.
>> >> Just looking for better ideas.
>> > Are you trying to splice the new piece on a rafter tail?
>> Not really. Most of these I do have a rafter cap on the soffit end.
>> Can splice anywhere.
>> > You don't
>> > have to.  You can cut it in between the rafter tails and use a
>> > piece of 3/4" ply as a backing plate, and screw & glue.  You also
>> > don't hav
> e
>> > to cut it at 45 degrees that way, and it's much less likely to open
>> > up.
>> I've always tried to do a 45 to minimize water infiltration and it
>> makes a nicer looking joint I think. Probably wasting my time.
>
> Pretty much. A 45 only minimizes water infiltration if the 45 is
> horizontal with the outside of the upper piece overlapping the bottom
> piece.

Yea, I'm picky on that one. Next in line is on the rakes. Soffits are
indeed more aesthetics.

>
> If your fascia is capped you don't have to worry about water
> infiltration nearly as much. Butt joint, goober some caulk on the cut
> end and slide it into place.
>
> R



Page 1 of 2       1 2 > last >>
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