Fascia Board replacement

Posted by David Nebenzahl on October 27, 2009, 3:58 pm

On 10/27/2009 10:52 AM RicodJour spake thus:

>> What do you folks use to cut the 45 for the board overlap? In
>> particular, without popping a hole in the shingles like with a
>> recip saw. I have used a recip saw and placed a piece of metal
>> above. Have also used the HF multifunction tool.

>
> Are you trying to splice the new piece on a rafter tail? You don't
> have to. You can cut it in between the rafter tails and use a piece
> of 3/4" ply as a backing plate, and screw & glue. You also don't have
> to cut it at 45 degrees that way, and it's much less likely to open
> up.

Sounds like a plan.

How about cutting it at an angle, but shallower than 45°? 15° or 20°
ought to be enough.

--
Found--the gene that causes belief in genetic determinism

Posted by on October 27, 2009, 3:55 pm

wrote:

>Curious to know what others do when you have a 10/12' fascia board and only
>0+ to maybe 24" is rotted on end or joint. This assumes the rest of it is
>in very very good shape and replacing the whole length seems silly.
>What do you folks use to cut the 45 for the board overlap? In particular,
>without popping a hole in the shingles like with a recip saw. I have used a
>recip saw and placed a piece of metal above. Have also used the HF
>multifunction tool.
>Just looking for better ideas.

RotoZip is your friend!!!

Posted by EXT on October 27, 2009, 4:54 pm

> Curious to know what others do when you have a 10/12' fascia board
> and only 0+ to maybe 24" is rotted on end or joint. This assumes the
> rest of it is in very very good shape and replacing the whole length
> seems silly.
> What do you folks use to cut the 45 for the board overlap? In
> particular, without popping a hole in the shingles like with a recip
> saw. I have used a recip saw and placed a piece of metal above. Have
> also used the HF multifunction tool.
> Just looking for better ideas.

Can you remove the whole board then work on it, clean it up, and then
replace it with the patch. Since new would is not near as good as old wood,
I would be inclined to put the patch in the middle running the old board to
the end.

Posted by C & E on October 28, 2009, 10:01 pm

<snip>>

> What do you folks use to cut the 45 for the board overlap? In particular,
> without popping a hole in the shingles like with a recip saw. I have used
> a
> recip saw and placed a piece of metal above. Have also used the HF
> multifunction tool.
> Just looking for better ideas.

I don't think that the OP's Q was answered. How do you cut the board? What
do you do with the gutter while you're making the fascia repair. You guys
obviously know more about this than the OP or I do. TIA, Chuck

Posted by RicodJour on October 29, 2009, 8:15 pm

> <snip>>> What do you folks use to cut the 45 for the board overlap? In pa=

rticular,

> > without popping a hole in the shingles like with a recip saw. I have us=

> > a
> > recip saw and placed a piece of metal above. Have also used the HF
> > multifunction tool.
> > Just looking for better ideas.

> I don't think that the OP's Q was answered. =A0How do you cut the board? =

=A0What

> do you do with the gutter while you're making the fascia repair. =A0You g=

uys

> obviously know more about this than the OP or I do. =A0TIA, Chuck

You can use almost any cutting tool, and almost any power cutting tool
will require you to finish it up with a handsaw or a reciprocating
saw. The roof shingle overhang will prevent a jigsaw, circular saw
and most likely a rotozip from cutting right to the top edge.

The gutter has to come down as Red said the fascia has an aluminum
fascia cover. If it didn't have a fascia cover, the gutter would have
to come down so you could cut the fascia and scab in the new piece.
Coming down does not necessarily mean removing it entirely. The far
end could probably remain attached, depending on how and where the
gutter is attached, and it could be hung down at an angle to clear the
work area.

R

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Fascia Board replacement - Page 2