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Fed up with Radon

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Fed up with Radon john 07-17-2008
---> Re: Fed up with Radon CL \"dnoyeB\" G...07-18-2008
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Posted by hallerb@aol.com on July 18, 2008, 5:18 pm


did OP ask this question awhile ago before doing all the floor work?
someone did and was told radon should be fixed before finishing space.

too many want look pretty befor fixing key essentials. like laminate
flooring in a basement that only takes in water every few years.

If you have access to under your home from outside, a electric drill
with extensions can drill a one inch hole 20 feet easily, and 40 feet
with patience. if the home sits above grade drill some holes, leave
dug area open and see if radon levels drop.

radon is heavier than air, and should naturally migrate out the holes

so how much are the mitigation estimates?

Posted by Mark on July 18, 2008, 5:44 pm


> did OP ask this question awhile ago before doing all the floor work?
> someone did and was told radon should be fixed before finishing space.
>
> too many want look pretty befor fixing key essentials. like laminate
> flooring in a basement that only takes in water every few years.
>
> If you have access to under your home from outside, a electric drill
> with extensions can drill a one inch hole 20 feet easily, and 40 feet
> with patience. if the home sits above grade drill some holes, leave
> dug area open and see if radon levels drop.
>
> radon is heavier than air, and should naturally migrate out the holes
>
> so how much are the mitigation estimates?
to the op

your stratagy should be to INCREASE the air pressure in the lower part
of your house (i.e. pump IN fresh air) and try to LOWER it under the
floor..

You want to try to get that air moving the opposite direction.

Anything that consumes air in your home such as the furnace or dryer
or an exhaust fan is lowering the air pressure inside and is working
against you.

Mark




Posted by hallerb@aol.com on July 18, 2008, 9:02 pm


id OP ask this question awhile ago before doing all the floor work?
> > someone did and was told radon should be fixed before finishing space.
>
> > too many want look pretty befor fixing key essentials. like laminate
> > flooring in a basement that only takes in water every few years.
>
> > If you have access to under your home from outside, a electric drill
> > with extensions can drill a one inch hole 20 feet easily, and 40 feet
> > with patience. if the home sits above grade drill some holes, leave
> > dug area open and see if radon levels drop.
>
> > radon is heavier than air, and should naturally migrate out the holes
>
> > so how much are the mitigation estimates?
>
> to the op
>
> your stratagy should be to INCREASE the air pressure in the lower part
> of your house (i.e. pump IN fresh air) and try to LOWER it under the
> floor..
>
> You want to try to get that air moving the opposite direction.
>
> Anything =EF=BF=BDthat consumes =EF=BF=BDair in your home such as the fur=
nace or dryer
> or an exhaust fan is lowering the air pressure inside and is working
> against you.
>
> Mark

thats true but at home resale time they wouldnt allow you to ventilate
the area in any way.

but ventil;ating under the slab may do the job

Posted by john on July 18, 2008, 9:43 pm


Haller, good recomendation.

But is your method an official one on reducing radon levels ? Maybe the
inspector wouldnt approve. I dug an inch or 2 deeper then whats in the
picture today.. Got under there with one of those Rebar (used to make
concrete stronger) bars and hammered it further down under there to try to
get more open space for the gas to release out from. So far it seems to be
working. Levels have been dropping very slowly all day without even
drilling any holes. Maybe I could get away without even having to drill
holes ? Just stick a 1 inch stainless steel , galvenized pipe under then on
a 45 degree angle and fill the rest back up with dirt...so the gas could
breathe out ? But so far im just leaving everything dug out for now. Your
drilling idea has me thinkin though. Im just now sure if it would pass
inspection that way.

The mitigation estimates were around $800 and the outdoor one was like
$1100. But even with those, there are alot of consequences as I mentioned
in the IP. Even installing a mitigation fan outdoors here wouldnt be a
good idea. Live in the pocono mountains (pennsylvania). Gets to negative
10 degrees here sometimes in the winter.

>your stratagy should be to INCREASE the air pressure in the lower part
>of your house (i.e. pump IN fresh air) and try to LOWER it under the
>floor..

I appreciate this idea as well , Mark. But how to increase and keep the
pressure higher in the lower floor ? Not an easy thing to keep pressure
high on the lower floor... even just opening the windows for fresh air
would seem to screw that method up.


Posted by hallerb@aol.com on July 19, 2008, 8:46 am


wrote:
> Haller, good recomendation.
>
> But is your method an official one on reducing radon levels ? =EF=BF=BDMa=
ybe the
> inspector wouldnt approve. =EF=BF=BDI dug an inch or 2 deeper then whats =
in the
> picture today.. =EF=BF=BDGot under there with one of those Rebar (used to=
make
> concrete stronger) bars and hammered it further down under there to try t=
o
> get more open space for the gas to release out from. =EF=BF=BDSo far it s=
eems to be
> working. =EF=BF=BDLevels have been dropping very slowly all day without e=
ven
> drilling any holes. =EF=BF=BD =EF=BF=BDMaybe I could get away without eve=
n having to drill
> holes ? =EF=BF=BDJust stick a 1 inch stainless steel , galvenized pipe un=
der then on
> a 45 degree angle and fill the rest back up with dirt...so the gas could
> breathe out ? =EF=BF=BDBut so far im just leaving everything dug out for =
now. =EF=BF=BD Your
> drilling idea has me thinkin though. =EF=BF=BD Im just now sure if it wou=
ld pass
> inspection that way.
>
> The mitigation estimates were around $800 and the outdoor one was like
> $1100. =EF=BF=BD =EF=BF=BDBut even with those, there are alot of conseque=
nces as I mentioned
> in the IP. =EF=BF=BD Even installing a mitigation fan outdoors here would=
nt be a
> good idea. =EF=BF=BDLive in the pocono mountains (pennsylvania). =EF=BF=
=BDGets to negative
> 10 degrees here sometimes in the winter.
>
> >your stratagy should be to INCREASE the air pressure in the lower part
> >of your house (i.e. pump IN fresh air) and try to LOWER it under the
> >floor..
>
> I appreciate this idea as well , Mark. =EF=BF=BD But how to increase and =
keep the
> pressure higher in the lower floor ? =EF=BF=BDNot an easy thing to keep p=
ressure
> high on the lower floor... =EF=BF=BDeven just opening the windows for fre=
sh air
> would seem to screw that method up.

the passive radon control if done propewrly should work fine.

a home inspector should require a radon test by a seperate testing
agency.

if you pass no inspection of the system should be necessary. just like
if all the work you already did had solved the radon problem. what
would they test?

I woud do overkill and do some drilling, its actually suprisingly easy
to drill under a slab.

then put a PVC pipe in the hole, paint it brown, and practically cover
with dirt grass.

say its part of a underslab drain. just dont talk about what its
draining:)

the 800 buck radon system is cheap. you could do that too for
appearances........

if your planning on selling..

get your home inspected, you likely have other issues that need fixed.
which you can do yourself or have done at low cost.

once a buyer gets your home inspected they will demand receipts from
registered electricians plumbers etc.........

way more costly and upsetting to the new buyer

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