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Subject Author Date
Fence Post Tom Holloway 05-25-2006
---> Re: Fence Post Wayne Whitney05-26-2006
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Posted by z on May 26, 2006, 4:36 pm

Tom Holloway wrote:
> crmay Wrote:
> > Hi Tom,
> >
> > I've never tried this, but read that you can remove old tree stumps by
> > burning them out with diesel.
>
>
> Many thanks for all your useful ideas, I shall be busy this weekend
> drilling and setting fire to things then!
>
> Regards
>
> Tom
>
>
> --
> Tom Holloway

I would have just stuck a flowerpot on top of it...


Posted by JGolan on May 25, 2006, 3:00 pm
I have used this very successfully in the past with posts that are NOT
set in concrete
. Get a "T" shaped wine cork puller. Twist the puller into the stump of
the old post. move back/forth and left/right to loosen it a bit and
then use steady upward pulling to remove the old broken post.


Posted by IBM5081 on May 25, 2006, 4:57 pm
Assuming that the submerged post base can be removed, what kind of post
will replace it?
Maybe a galvanized metal post with a bit of mortar or concrete to hold
it?

Is this a corner post or gate post with additional loads on it or is it
just a line post that must resist wind forces against the fence panels?

How about using an eye-bolt with 12" length and gluing it into one of
those holes you have drilled? Wait a day and pull it out. A 20' log
chain wrapped over a car rim and attached to a trailer hitch would
provide substantial vertical force.


Posted by Wayne Whitney on May 26, 2006, 11:03 am

> The post that is left behind is below ground level and surrounded by
> a brick wall on one side and the other side is a driveway. Does
> anyone have any bright ideas of how to remove the post? I have tried
> drilling out the remainder with an auger bit but its not very easy!

I have done this a few times when I wanted to reuse a concrete
footing. What I found worked best was to get a 3" saw tooth bit
(e.g. 06J01.48 from leevalley.com) and drill out the core of the post.
The 3" bit allows you to stay within the post if you start slightly
off center or end up slightly off plumb; you don't want to hit the
concrete as that will quickly dull the bit. Getting the bit started
is the most difficult part, since the broken end of the post is
probably not flat.

Once you've drilled out the core of the post, use a long pry bar with
a flat chisel end to split the remainder of the post at the 4 places
it is thinnest. Then you can remove each of the remaining quarters by
prying it into the 3" hole and then pulling it out.

Cheers, Wayne


Posted by IBM5081 on May 26, 2006, 4:44 pm
Wayne,
Thanks for the idea. I already have a 2-9/16 self-feeding bit such
as plumbers use to cut holes in framing for gas and water lines.
Already have the Hole-Hawg drill to power it too. Just need an
extension since these bits don't have a very long shank to them.
Now if that big drill doesn't slap me silly the first time the bit
hangs up, have that hole drilled in no time at all.


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