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Fence post spacing question Ook 09-02-2006
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Posted by Ook on September 2, 2006, 8:01 pm
Tired of my fence questions yet? Be patient with me - I'm almost there.
I'll be fence expert by the time I'm done with this fence :)

So, today's n00b fence building question has to do with post spacing. I have
a run that is 443" long. I'm thinking of spacing the posts like this:

The left end is a corner post. The right end is a terminating post at the
wall of the house. Measuring from post center to post center:

X--- 4.9' ---X--- 8' ---X--- 8' ---X--- 8' ---X--- 8' ---X

OR

X--- 7.4' ---X--- 7.4' ---X--- 7.4' ---X--- 7.4' ---X--- 7.4' ---X

The 8' spacing has narrow spacing at the corner post, decreasing the load on
the corner post.

I have another run that is 260, both ends are corner posts":

X--- 7.2' ---X--- 7.2' ---X--- 7.2' ---X

OR

X--- 6.8' ---X--- 8' ---X--- 6.8 ---X

Again - we either make them evenly spaced, or we shorten the runs at the
corner posts.

And lastly - on a long run, about 100 feet, is there any reason not to use
8' spacing? Is a long run susceptible to wind shear and therefore should
have shorter spacing? This run runs north-south, and the prevailing wind is
from the west, rarely over 10mph, gusts up to 30mph rare.

I know, I know, it's up to me, do what I want, blah blah. What would you do
in the above scenarios?



Posted by RayV on September 2, 2006, 8:22 pm

Ook wrote:
> Tired of my fence questions yet? Be patient with me - I'm almost there.
> I'll be fence expert by the time I'm done with this fence :)
>
> So, today's n00b fence building question has to do with post spacing. I have
> a run that is 443" long. I'm thinking of spacing the posts like this:
>
> The left end is a corner post. The right end is a terminating post at the
> wall of the house. Measuring from post center to post center:
>
> X--- 4.9' ---X--- 8' ---X--- 8' ---X--- 8' ---X--- 8' ---X
>
> OR
>
> X--- 7.4' ---X--- 7.4' ---X--- 7.4' ---X--- 7.4' ---X--- 7.4' ---X
>
> The 8' spacing has narrow spacing at the corner post, decreasing the load on
> the corner post.
>
> I have another run that is 260, both ends are corner posts":
>
> X--- 7.2' ---X--- 7.2' ---X--- 7.2' ---X
>
> OR
>
> X--- 6.8' ---X--- 8' ---X--- 6.8 ---X
>
> Again - we either make them evenly spaced, or we shorten the runs at the
> corner posts.
>
> And lastly - on a long run, about 100 feet, is there any reason not to use
> 8' spacing? Is a long run susceptible to wind shear and therefore should
> have shorter spacing? This run runs north-south, and the prevailing wind is
> from the west, rarely over 10mph, gusts up to 30mph rare.
>
> I know, I know, it's up to me, do what I want, blah blah. What would you do
> in the above scenarios?

Unless the short section was less than 4' I would start with a full
section and cut the last one to what it needed to be, putting the full
piece at the end most noticed. An exception would be if you have a run
on the front or 'traffic' side of the house. In that case I would
probably make the two end panels even. No way I would consider cutting
every panel in a run except maybe in your three panel example. All of
this is of course assuming the posts are seen from both sides, if posts
are only on you side then start with a full and cut the last one.


Posted by Ook on September 2, 2006, 9:12 pm

> Unless the short section was less than 4' I would start with a full
> section and cut the last one to what it needed to be, putting the full
> piece at the end most noticed. An exception would be if you have a run
> on the front or 'traffic' side of the house. In that case I would
> probably make the two end panels even. No way I would consider cutting
> every panel in a run except maybe in your three panel example. All of
> this is of course assuming the posts are seen from both sides, if posts
> are only on you side then start with a full and cut the last one.
>

OK, so use standard lengths except for 1) the last piece and 2) short runs
like my 4 post section. That makes sense, less work, you don't have to cut
stringers for every run.



Posted by HeyBub on September 2, 2006, 9:21 pm
Ook wrote:
> Tired of my fence questions yet? Be patient with me - I'm almost
> there. I'll be fence expert by the time I'm done with this fence :)
>
> So, today's n00b fence building question has to do with post spacing.
> I have a run that is 443" long. I'm thinking of spacing the posts
> like this:
> The left end is a corner post. The right end is a terminating post at
> the wall of the house. Measuring from post center to post center:
>
> X--- 4.9' ---X--- 8' ---X--- 8' ---X--- 8' ---X--- 8' ---X
>
> OR
>
> X--- 7.4' ---X--- 7.4' ---X--- 7.4' ---X--- 7.4' ---X--- 7.4' ---X
>
> The 8' spacing has narrow spacing at the corner post, decreasing the
> load on the corner post.
>
> I have another run that is 260, both ends are corner posts":
>
> X--- 7.2' ---X--- 7.2' ---X--- 7.2' ---X
>
> OR
>
> X--- 6.8' ---X--- 8' ---X--- 6.8 ---X
>
> Again - we either make them evenly spaced, or we shorten the runs at
> the corner posts.
>
> And lastly - on a long run, about 100 feet, is there any reason not
> to use 8' spacing? Is a long run susceptible to wind shear and
> therefore should have shorter spacing? This run runs north-south, and
> the prevailing wind is from the west, rarely over 10mph, gusts up to
> 30mph rare.
> I know, I know, it's up to me, do what I want, blah blah. What would
> you do in the above scenarios?

Assuming esthetics are not an issue: minimize the cutting.

Wind shear will not be an issue.

Helpful hints:

1. Consider placing a few pickets parallel to the ground, say 8-10-12 inches
worth. When they rot out, it's easier to replace a board or two than
re-construct that section of the fence.

2. Use 2.5" deck screws (stainless or anodized) instead of nails. You'll
need a house-current drill with a Phillips bit and a long extension cord.
Cordless drills just don't have the oomph or staying power. Get an
attachement/sleeve gizmo that guides the screw in straight. Screwing is
faster than nailing.

3. Buy an excess of pickets, say 10%. Stack them in your garage for an
extended period* in a fashion such that they get ample air-flow. You're
trying to get them as dry as possible before erecting them. If not "dry as a
board" when installed, they will SHRINK and you'll end up with 1/8 - 3/8"
gaps between the pickets, which not only looks tacky but allows your
neighbors to peek in and watch your female family members sunbathing in the
buff. Alternatively, you can watch your neighbor...

As you use your dried pickets, set aside the ones that warped or curled
during storage. Return these for credit. Yes, the box stores will take them
back.

(*Extended period = the longer the better. Two months should be ample, but
anything is better than "from Home Depot to the post.")

4. Take pictures as you go. Keep a little diary. Report back.



Posted by Ook on September 2, 2006, 10:14 pm
>
> 4. Take pictures as you go. Keep a little diary. Report back.

You can count on that. I'm taking pics every step of the way. Every weekend
I take 100-200 pics of my garden and yard and put them on my website. Today
I put the stakes in the ground for where the posts go. In a week or 3 I'll
rent a power auger and drill out the holes. I'll post pics as I go. It's the
least I can do, besides it gives me bragging rights if it actually turns out
nice :)



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