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Posted by Al Bundy on September 2, 2006, 10:51 pm
> Ook wrote:
>> Tired of my fence questions yet? Be patient with me - I'm almost
>> there. I'll be fence expert by the time I'm done with this fence :)
>>
>> So, today's n00b fence building question has to do with post spacing.
>> I have a run that is 443" long. I'm thinking of spacing the posts
>> like this:
>> The left end is a corner post. The right end is a terminating post at
>> the wall of the house. Measuring from post center to post center:
>>
>> X--- 4.9' ---X--- 8' ---X--- 8' ---X--- 8' ---X--- 8' ---X
>>
>> OR
>>
>> X--- 7.4' ---X--- 7.4' ---X--- 7.4' ---X--- 7.4' ---X--- 7.4' ---X
>>
>> The 8' spacing has narrow spacing at the corner post, decreasing the
>> load on the corner post.
>>
>> I have another run that is 260, both ends are corner posts":
>>
>> X--- 7.2' ---X--- 7.2' ---X--- 7.2' ---X
>>
>> OR
>>
>> X--- 6.8' ---X--- 8' ---X--- 6.8 ---X
>>
>> Again - we either make them evenly spaced, or we shorten the runs at
>> the corner posts.
>>
>> And lastly - on a long run, about 100 feet, is there any reason not
>> to use 8' spacing? Is a long run susceptible to wind shear and
>> therefore should have shorter spacing? This run runs north-south, and
>> the prevailing wind is from the west, rarely over 10mph, gusts up to
>> 30mph rare.
>> I know, I know, it's up to me, do what I want, blah blah. What would
>> you do in the above scenarios?
>
> Assuming esthetics are not an issue: minimize the cutting.
>
> Wind shear will not be an issue.
>
> Helpful hints:
>
> 1. Consider placing a few pickets parallel to the ground, say 8-10-12
> inches worth. When they rot out, it's easier to replace a board or two
> than re-construct that section of the fence.
>
> 2. Use 2.5" deck screws (stainless or anodized) instead of nails.
> You'll need a house-current drill with a Phillips bit and a long
> extension cord. Cordless drills just don't have the oomph or staying
> power. Get an attachement/sleeve gizmo that guides the screw in
> straight. Screwing is faster than nailing.
>
> 3. Buy an excess of pickets, say 10%. Stack them in your garage for an
> extended period* in a fashion such that they get ample air-flow.
> You're trying to get them as dry as possible before erecting them. If
> not "dry as a board" when installed, they will SHRINK and you'll end
> up with 1/8 - 3/8" gaps between the pickets, which not only looks
> tacky but allows your neighbors to peek in and watch your female
> family members sunbathing in the buff. Alternatively, you can watch
> your neighbor...
>
> As you use your dried pickets, set aside the ones that warped or
> curled during storage. Return these for credit. Yes, the box stores
> will take them back.
>
> (*Extended period = the longer the better. Two months should be ample,
> but anything is better than "from Home Depot to the post.")
>
> 4. Take pictures as you go. Keep a little diary. Report back.
>
>
> Cordless drills just don't have the oomph or staying
> power.
Somewhat disagree with this. A higher quality 18v corless has plenty of
oomph. Can easily set the head of a 2 1/2 inch drywall screw into double
2x4's even too far down if the clutch is maxed. Can put the head of a
screw through the plywood you are screwing down. Talking about Rigid,
Milwaukee, Dewalts.
Staying power - no, can't beat electric or air for continuous work.
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