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Posted by No on May 23, 2006, 10:49 am
Christopher H. Laco wrote:
> No wrote:
>> Christopher H. Laco wrote:
>>> Over the last couple of months, the fill valve in my master bath toilet
>>> (ballcock style) has worn out. What used to be a quiet night, has turned
>>> into frequent sounds of "whoooosh", a sound I can only describe as a
>>> small surge in water pressure that forces more water into the tank.
>>>
>>> This didn't happen for the first two years I owned the house, and it
>>> doesn't happen to the other two toilets. Suspecting something internal
>>> in the valve, like a gasket, has gone bad, I decided to replace the fill
>>> valve.
>>>
>>> They have 3 kinds at the local Lowes, the traditional ballcock, a Korky,
>>> and some other brand. I went with the Korky for no particular reason.
>>>
>>>
>>> After fighting the flanged feed line, it was in, flushing and happy.
>>> Much to my dismay, I've only exchanged one problem for a similiar
>>> problem.
>>>
>>> After about 10-30 minutes, instead of the "whooosh", I simply get a
>>> somewhat constant bubbling/gargling in the new float valve. I'm assuming
>>> that again, it's the water pressure issue.
>>>
>>> At this point, I'm not sure what to do to get rid of the noise in a once
>>> quit bathroom. Any ideas?
>>>
>>> -=Chris
>> Hey Chris - Sorry to be the first to tell you this. There was probably
>> not anything wrong with that fill valve!
>>
>> You problem is water leaking from the tank, when the water level gets
>> low enough it causes the valve to add a bit more water in. The "whooosh"
>> and the "bubbling/gargling" are likely two different vendors sounds.
>>
>> Anyway - There are several places that it can leak and you would never
>> know it. The most likely place is the flapper. (Water leaking into
>> bowl). Thats a cheap thing to replace. Do it and 90% of the time the
>> problem you have will be fixed.
>
> I would think that the amount of water leaking around the flapper to
> cause the whoosh every 5-10 minutes would be more audible, but what the
> hell do I know. I'm a computer jockey. :-)
>
> If I'm going for broke and replacing the flapper too, I might make it
> worth my while and replace the water supply line. I wasn't terribly
> happy with the flanged end fit onto the bottom of the fill valve, and
> would've much preferred to use the cone gasket pressure fit type, or at
> least a flexible supply.
>
> Guess know what I'm doing this evening. :-)
>
> -=Chris
If there is no leak in the supply line then leave well enough alone. If
it aint broke....
The flapper is a 5 minute $5 fix. For symptoms like you describe its the
first thing to try. There are a few other places that can leak, causing
the problem you have, as well.
Some may post here describing a dye test. It can tell you if the leak is
in the flapper, or elsewhere. You add dye to the tank. If the water in
the bowl changes color then the problem is likely in the flapper. If it
doesn't then the leak is elsewhere. I skip this step because its usually
the flapper.
OK - Just for fun - where is "elsewhere"
Overflow tube
- water can flow over the top - if this is the case then just adjust the
float to lower the water level.
- hole or bad connection at bottom of tube - Replace tube or re-seal
threads.
Tank to bowl gasket
- water can leak from here, directly to drain (or floor). If the dye
test shows no color in bowl, or the flapper replacement doesn't fix it,
then this could be your problem.
leak to floor - I assume this is not your problem but for completeness
I'll describe these possoble leaks.
- Tank to bowl bolts - These have rubber washers that can leak water to
floor.
- Tank to bowl gasket - This can leak into the drain OR on to the floor
- Fill valve gasket - The gasket where the fill valve connects to the
tank can leak water to the floor.
Good luck - post back what you find after replacing the flapper.
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