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Filter pump ran dry - need replacement

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Subject Author Date
Filter pump ran dry - need replacement Mike Hartigan 06-28-2005
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Posted by Art Todesco on July 1, 2005, 12:04 am
Didn't see the OP, however, some small
pumps have rubber flaps
on the impeller. If run dry, they will
melt and the pump will free
wheel.

Mike Hartigan wrote:
> none@none.com says...
>
>>On Wed, 29 Jun 2005 22:41:43 -0500, Mike Hartigan
>>
>>
>>>Sorry, I guess "pump is shot" is a bit vague. Basically, it's not
>>>leaking, but when I turn it on, the motor spins but the water doesn't
>>>go anywhere.
>>
>>There is nothing inside the pump that would fail due to not having
>>water other than the seal as others have stated. The impeller doesn't
>>actually touch anything in there.
>>
>>Prime the pump and turn it back on. If your feeling really
>>industrious remove the impellerand replace the disk seal otherwise
>>watch for leaks and replace it you see any.
>>
>>The motor bearings are usually what ends the life of these things.
>>Often the shaft seal starts leaking and is allowed to continue to leak
>>until it ruins the bearing. We usually replace that seal every couple
>>years just to be on the safe side in the pool and well pumps.
>>
>
> I suspect that the impeller is no longer connected to the motor
> shaft. The motor spins freely with no apparent resistance - as I
> said it takes a few seconds to spin down after shutting it off.
> Perhaps the heat simply caused the impeller to detach from the shaft?
> The priming tank is full so that's not the problem. No leaks
> anywhere.

Posted by Mike Hartigan on June 30, 2005, 10:30 pm
no.one@no.net says...
> Mike Hartigan wrote:
> > One of the hoses on my filter failed last night and this morning I
> > found the water level just below the skimmer. I brought the water
> > level back where it belongs, crossed my fingers, and turned on the
> > pump. Motor runs fine, but, not unexpectedly, the pump is shot. I
> > considered replacing or repairing just the pump but I figured that
> > this unit is seven years old and the motor will likely need replacing
> > soon anyway, so why not just replace the motor/pump? They're more
> > widely available in that configuration anyway, and it'll be cheaper
> > than replacing them individually a year or so apart.
> >
> > Two questions:
> >
> > 1. After seven years, does it make sense to replace them both now, or
> > is this overkill?
>
> As long as you're in there doing the work, I would replace them as an
> assembly.
>
> But first, make sure that it isn't just a matter of the pump losing
> prime.

That's not an issue. Plenty of water in the priming tank.

> Can't help you with the brands...don't know the Doughboy. I've had
> excellent service (10 years) from Sta-Rite.
>
>
>

Posted by Mike Hartigan on July 2, 2005, 2:55 pm
Filter pump: post-mortem

Well, I opened up the pump and found, first of all, quite a bit of
deformity of the impeller, likely due to heat. The (stainless?)
steel threads on the impeller were stripped clean. The threads on
the motor shaft were unharmed, no doubt due to the fact that it is
made from a harder metal. I suspect that the impeller siezed due to
the heat and the next weakest link in the chain failed - the impeller
threads. (so, indeed, "the pump is shot" ;-). I bought a
similarlarly-spec'ed Jacuzzi motor/pump to replace it and all is,
once again, right with the world!

Thanks for all your insight and suggestions.

-Mike

Posted by Travis Jordan on July 2, 2005, 3:40 pm
Mike Hartigan wrote:
> Thanks for all your insight and suggestions.

Thanks for the follow up. Many times we don't hear the end of the story
(happy or not), so it is good to hear that all is well again.

Happy 4th if you are in the U.S., otherwise, enjoy the weekend.



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